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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: Trish Davis on 01/26/08 05:01am

Leeann wrote:

Important if you ever need to replace a window...

Another thing --windows.
My rr window and door are plexiglass. Kinda smeary but will clear up with rubbing compound.

I've been thinking of the side windows, they aren't that big on the Travco.
Fella on PGH Craigslist has odd-sized dark plexiglass for sale cheap.
But. My search for an M/C windshield led me to these things called "iridium," sorta 70's, very reflective, lotsa colors. Think Oakley sunglasses, but HUGE....

Now plain dark would work, but my inner window frames are brown. Yes, from the factory, there is no practical way to paint them less than once a year.

Anyone know anything about iridium? It's got to be some kind of color-impregnated Lexan or plexiglass.


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 01/26/08 08:14am

Trish Davis wrote:

Leeann wrote:

Important if you ever need to replace a window...

Another thing --windows.
My rr window and door are plexiglass. Kinda smeary but will clear up with rubbing compound.


Trish, rubbing compound will work but make sure you get the finest grit on the market. We use 4800 grit compound on a buffer to polish scratched plastic scanner lenses. Keep buffing wheel well covered or you will undo everything with a dry wheel.

Another trick I learned years ago with a ragtop Jeep. Apply a coat of carnuba wax to the plastic or plexiglass windows. It helped keep the windows from scratching.


Here comes the "Chuck Wagon"


Posted By: Kendas on 01/26/08 10:18am

unionguy1019 wrote:

Trish Davis wrote:

Leeann wrote:

Important if you ever need to replace a window...

Another thing --windows.
My rr window and door are plexiglass. Kinda smeary but will clear up with rubbing compound.


Trish, rubbing compound will work but make sure you get the finest grit on the market. We use 4800 grit compound on a buffer to polish scratched plastic scanner lenses. Keep buffing wheel well covered or you will undo everything with a dry wheel.

Another trick I learned years ago with a ragtop Jeep. Apply a coat of carnuba wax to the plastic or plexiglass windows. It helped keep the windows from scratching.
And after you get it cleared up, use nothing but "Gel Gloss Fiberglass, Marble, & Acrylic (Plexiglas/Plastic) One Step Polish" to keep it clear and clean up any new scratches that the carnuba lets through... I've been using this stuff (both the gel and spray can) for years on the 'plex windshield of my '84 Goldwing and it still looks like it came out of the factory.


1978 21ft Tioga Dodge 440 Motor,
4.5kw Generac and 80 watts Solar
1984 Goldwing Interstate (Daily driver)
Misc Things I've done to my RV pictures

USAF Retired
To Err is human... To Forgive is not SAC Policy.



Posted By: Kendas on 01/26/08 10:27am

Trish Davis wrote:

What kinda metal? What is your skin made of?
Tarp that frt window and wait until I've experimented with the West Epoxy...
I think marine epoxy is the way to go. It's lighter, it's forever, no screws so no drilling.

I've also been thinking about the "flex" issue in regard to rebuilding the Big Box.

When I drove limo, those cars flexed like mad; empty, they sounded like being inside a drum --no kidding. And they ALWAYS leaked. The brand new limos leaked and in the same areas new RVs leak: roof, large or long windows.

I took a lesson from the pre-War and to-'49 cars --fender welting!
Fender welting (originally thickly rolled cloth, now rubbber replacement) will give me a tight seal yet allow that back end to wobble about. It's gonna.

I've got a whole new appreciation for "aircraft consctruction," it wasn't just a marketing ploy.
The only time our Avion ever leaked --in 25 years-- was a wheel well rivet.

eBay. Where else. I got 15 yds of grey welting, bought by mistake.
Well since I have aluminum sheet the size of the opening and a pretty good pop-rivet gun, I think it'll match the aluminum that surrounds the opening. So with a couple of 2x supports installed, "lots" of sealant and some matching paint I'll "solve" that that leak.


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 01/26/08 05:50pm

Look here for a hint on cleaning and polishing dirty or hazy plastic.


1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A



Posted By: stabbin cabin on 01/27/08 12:09pm

i need to replace my Aqua Magic IV toilet, the handle is broken or something. saw one on ebay pretty cheap....but do i need to get all the other stuff with it (whatever that is) ckit...

http://tinyurl.com/2zkz7z

1) i ask because in my search i found alot of "peripheral" goodies...hoses, seals valves...bla, bla, bla.....or does the toilet come with it?


2)turns out the IV is discontinued so if i was to "upgrade" what would that be to? the V?

3)foot or hand flush? what are the pros/cons of each.

4)im tall so the taller toilet is most likely the one, and thoughts on space with regards to the taller toilet?

5) where the cheapest/best place to purchase one?

i dont know much about ****ters for and RV so please excuse my dumbness on the matter!

thanks!

SC

* This post was last edited 01/27/08 12:27pm by stabbin cabin *


Posted By: stabbin cabin on 01/27/08 01:04pm

looking to replace my SF....the one i have is origional im sure....the mice have gotten into the wiring in the unit (deep inside it, where else) and the damn thing keeps grounding out or something.......12v heats up and melts/burns....so i figure i would start new sans mice....

question -

1) the intake/output on the SF units look to be pretty universal are they? the model that looks closest to what i have is the nt-20s (not sure of my btu's)

http://tinyurl.com/2hps83

thoughts?

SC


Posted By: Jer&Ger on 01/27/08 10:25pm

stabbin cabin wrote:

i need to replace my Aqua Magic IV toilet, the handle is broken or something. saw one on ebay pretty cheap....but do i need to get all the other stuff with it (whatever that is) ckit...

http://tinyurl.com/2zkz7z

1) i ask because in my search i found alot of "peripheral" goodies...hoses, seals valves...bla, bla, bla.....or does the toilet come with it?


2)turns out the IV is discontinued so if i was to "upgrade" what would that be to? the V?

3)foot or hand flush? what are the pros/cons of each.

4)im tall so the taller toilet is most likely the one, and thoughts on space with regards to the taller toilet?

5) where the cheapest/best place to purchase one?

i dont know much about ****ters for and RV so please excuse my dumbness on the matter!

thanks!

SC


Not sure on most of this stuff, but I got the tall toilet and built up the platform because I'm 6'4" and have a fused back so it just didn't make it any other way for me. I have a few pics if you want an idea of how I did it....Jerry


Jerry & Gerry, our pets (dogs), Byron, Coco
1976 Monaco, 440 ci. Dodge Sportsman chassis


Posted By: stabbin cabin on 01/28/08 04:05am

Quote:


Not sure on most of this stuff, but I got the tall toilet and built up the platform because I'm 6'4" and have a fused back so it just didn't make it any other way for me. I have a few pics if you want an idea of how I did it....Jerry


right on jerry...im 6'5"...send or post pix of yer tall crapper!

sc


Posted By: stabbin cabin on 01/28/08 12:26pm

at the advise of other forum members i have moved discussion on the StabbinCabin to here

http://tinyurl.com/yvwlyt

thanks for the heads up!

SC


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