Biggerhammer wrote:
So much to do, and so few of me....
Have you ever noticed that no matter what you want to do, you always have to do something else first?
So much to do, and so few of me....
Have you ever noticed that no matter what you want to do, you always have to do something else first?
Biggerhammer-
Just makes you wish you were born three piece twins, don't it?
When I was asked if life was really like a race I replied "You bet!
A tractor pull!!" Just my 2 centavos, my friend- I don't envy what lies ahead for you. Been there done that. Loadza fun! Wear goggles and keep your mouth closed. Don't sample everything like I did.
73!
Mark a.k.a whiteknight
1972 Mobile Traveler 20' Dodge B300 Class C
"The Kobayashi Maru" Trans- Prarie Land Craft
"Requiescat in pace et in amore..."
She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!
Trish Davis wrote:
75AC --you know that diaphragm thing? Check that.
Yeah, they can suck themselves shut.
So can fuel lines, rare but has happened.
75Americanclipper wrote:
get this I ran out of gas and now it wont start, it's a 360
man this sucks, cause it ran fine before I ran out of gas
get this I ran out of gas and now it wont start, it's a 360
man this sucks, cause it ran fine before I ran out of gas
75AC --you know that diaphragm thing? Check that.
Yeah, they can suck themselves shut.
So can fuel lines, rare but has happened.
7/16ths bolt holds it on.
if this is shot,you will crank it over forever,and never start=no spark.
a quick way to check for spark,is to pull one end of a spark plug wire off the spark plug,put a screwdriver in the end of the spark pulg wire,Preferrably a Rubber handled one,and hold the screwdriver Close to the block,head,or manifolds.
now have a friend crank it over a few times..
if its getting spark,you will visibly see it jump from the screwdriver to the block.
Be carefull!!
when you are cranking the motor,keep the flap on the carb closed,to help pull the gas forwards.
still wont start?
try this,pull the gas line off the fuel pump where it comes in from the tank..it should start leaking gas..if it doesnt,then your problem is the lines or the tank...
if it does,then check the fuel pump or carb..
hope any of this helped..
jc
I'll try this stuff tonight, I hope to and if it is not raining
thanks for the info guys and gals
JC
Dr Rob wrote:
75....not sure if they still had em in 75,but check the ballast resistor on the firewall too...its a white porcelain module,with either 2 or 4 wires going into it.
7/16ths bolt holds it on.
if this is shot,you will crank it over forever,and never start=no spark.
a quick way to check for spark,is to pull one end of a spark plug wire off the spark plug,put a screwdriver in the end of the spark pulg wire,Preferrably a Rubber handled one,and hold the screwdriver Close to the block,head,or manifolds.
now have a friend crank it over a few times..
if its getting spark,you will visibly see it jump from the screwdriver to the block.
Be carefull!!
when you are cranking the motor,keep the flap on the carb closed,to help pull the gas forwards.
still wont start?
try this,pull the gas line off the fuel pump where it comes in from the tank..it should start leaking gas..if it doesnt,then your problem is the lines or the tank...
if it does,then check the fuel pump or carb..
hope any of this helped..
75....not sure if they still had em in 75,but check the ballast resistor on the firewall too...its a white porcelain module,with either 2 or 4 wires going into it.
7/16ths bolt holds it on.
if this is shot,you will crank it over forever,and never start=no spark.
a quick way to check for spark,is to pull one end of a spark plug wire off the spark plug,put a screwdriver in the end of the spark pulg wire,Preferrably a Rubber handled one,and hold the screwdriver Close to the block,head,or manifolds.
now have a friend crank it over a few times..
if its getting spark,you will visibly see it jump from the screwdriver to the block.
Be carefull!!
when you are cranking the motor,keep the flap on the carb closed,to help pull the gas forwards.
still wont start?
try this,pull the gas line off the fuel pump where it comes in from the tank..it should start leaking gas..if it doesnt,then your problem is the lines or the tank...
if it does,then check the fuel pump or carb..
hope any of this helped..
75Americanclipper wrote:
can I just pour gas in the carb and start?
can I just pour gas in the carb and start?
You got blue spark at the coil?
Swap out that wire if you don't to check.
If you have spark, then pour a 1/2 pint of gas down the carb.
If that won't turn the engine over, start tracing the fuel lines...
If you have replaced any of them, go there first, unscrew that line at both ends and manually blow through it. You would be surprised the stuff gets into new metal lines -- bits of brass off the fittings or metal if you had to cut it, even gunked-up parts store stickers.
Replace the rubber fuel lines.. these can look good (and yes, fuel line is stout) but be "peeling" on the inside. Yeah, I am gonna use the braided stainless (from 3 hotrods ago) for the rubber fuel line portions.
Dr Rob wrote:
to check for spark,is to pull one end of a spark plug wire off the spark plug,put a screwdriver in the end of the spark pulg wire,Preferrably a Rubber handled one,and hold the screwdriver Close to the block,head,or manifolds.
now have a friend crank it over a few times..
if its getting spark,you will visibly see it jump from the screwdriver to the block.
to check for spark,is to pull one end of a spark plug wire off the spark plug,put a screwdriver in the end of the spark pulg wire,Preferrably a Rubber handled one,and hold the screwdriver Close to the block,head,or manifolds.
now have a friend crank it over a few times..
if its getting spark,you will visibly see it jump from the screwdriver to the block.
No No No.
Pull off #1 wire and hold it with a wooden clothespin.
Clothespins don't hurt.
BTW - yes, they had them in 1975 ... in 1977 also, on my B200 van with a 318.
With the ignition switch in the Run position, current goes through the ballast resistor to the coil. If the ballast resistor is bad, no juice to the coil and no spark.
With the ignition switch in the Start position, the ballast resistor is bypassed and current goes directly to the coil. In other words, the engine will fire in Start position regardless of the condition of the ballast resistor. (Engine dies as soon as ignition switch returns to Run position if resistor is bad.)
This is important because you will get spark (with screwdriver or clothespin) when cranking the engine. If you follow the standard gas engine troubleshooting chart (spark/ignition/timing first, fuel system troubleshooting second) you'll be misled because you'll think you have good spark.
Believe me, a bad ballast resistor is one of the easiest problems to fix but one of the most frustrating to diagnose.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
So, time to share... what did we buy our mohos this year?
p.s.: It's always a good bet to follow Griff's advice.
Where it not for him, my Travco still wouldn't stop ...
Thanks for all your help in 2007.
I found the coolest site.
Merry Christmas in 360 lanuages
If you get a chance go vist, (Warning - heavy in the graphics) May take a few to load.
Ho Ho Ho
Gary Webb
Phoenix, AZ
