Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: ALnCORY on 09/26/07 10:15am

Oh, I vote for the old Dodge pow-wow, ralley, what ever you call it... Can we find a central enough location that we can all get our rigs there with out the tow trucks? Just kidding, when we all get them fixed up they will run like tops...

I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!

Posted By: 79powerwagon on 09/26/07 11:02am

nodakotaclassc wrote:

This summer when I was changing oil on my 1979 dodge Rockwood I ran into a problem. When I went to put the drain plug back in, it never tightened (stripped). What is the BEST solution to the problem.
Brady

Only one good repair option out there- new oil pan. Sorry.

She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!

Posted By: 79powerwagon on 09/26/07 11:03am

nodakotaclassc wrote:

Posted By: eyeteeth on 09/26/07 12:58pm

nodakotaclassc

Heli-coil?

Posted By: 79powerwagon on 09/26/07 01:31pm

As long as you have to remove the pan to heli-coil it, you might just as well buy a new pan. I paid $20.00 for a brand new one for my 440 in the Charger. A Heli-coil kit costs more...

Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 09/26/07 03:55pm

BEST way to handle this IMO .... is to buy an expandable rubber plug that will seal that pan plug up .. just as good as new.

Posted By: Trish Davis on 09/26/07 07:19pm

nodakotaclassc, Eric is right about the new oil pan.

In a pinch (side of the road), I'd follow MasterBD's suggestion, but if you can change the oil pan, then DO change the oil pan, and have no worries about it.

Bathroom: What I plan to do (mostly because I took the door off and the outer paneling while I was at it):

Put VisQueen behind the existing inner wall --which will not exist in a couple more days anyway.
Visqueen's good stuff, I made a rr window for my CJ-5 out of it, lasted for years.

Then find some vinyl or other non-leaking composite-type stuff and glue it to the VisQueen.
Cover and finish the doorsill with molded-something-waterproof and lots of glue.

I have come to believe that "screws" are not our friends.

So.... How much weight will that roof bear, anyone got a clue?
It needs cleaned and fiberglass-taped.

Last thing: Who needs brake part numbers?
Yessir, I have the NAPA book! Brand-new and all mine but willing to share.

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 09/26/07 07:43pm

Trish Davis wrote:

I agree.

Trish Davis wrote:

Bathroom: What I plan to do (mostly because I took the door off and the outer paneling while I was at it):

Put VisQueen behind the existing inner wall --which will not exist in a couple more days anyway.
Visqueen's good stuff, I made a rr window for my CJ-5 out of it, lasted for years.

Then find some vinyl or other non-leaking composite-type stuff and glue it to the VisQueen.
Cover and finish the doorsill with molded-something-waterproof and lots of glue.

I have come to believe that "screws" are not our friends.

Screws are not a problem ... the problem with the wall/ceiling/roof on most motorhomes is the lack of a vapor barrier. Water vapor (from breathing and cooking) migrates through the paneling and saturates the insulation by condensing in the wall. So, a 'VisQueen' vapor barrier is a very good idea.

Sometimes, people think their roof is leaking (especially in colder temperature) when it's actually condensed vapor dripping out of the ceiling insulation.

BTW - I think you're looking for 'shower board' or shower lining' ... tempered masonite covered with a vinyl coating.

Trish Davis wrote:

So.... How much weight will that roof bear, anyone got a clue?
It needs cleaned and fiberglass-taped.

Probably 200 pounds ... kneel or sit to distribute your weight more ... a 4'x4' piece of 1/4" or 3/8" plywood will distribute the weight even more.

Trish Davis wrote:

Last thing: Who needs brake part numbers?
Yessir, I have the NAPA book! Brand-new and all mine but willing to share.

OH!! I'm jealous! I have to drive 30 miles (oneway) to see a copy.

On the other hand, my friends a NAPA found a spare copy of the Heavy Duty Chassis Parts Catalog (CH-MHD-06) which covers medium and heavy duty trucks, including the M400 and up. (The M300 chassis is schizo -- with some light duty and some medium duty parts -- so this catalog may or may not have appropriate parts ... but it's a starting point.)

Back to work, before I crash my computer by making it do one too many things all at once.

1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 09/26/07 07:47pm

T D .... in-a-pinch ? .. LOL ....I know a couple of people over the years that have done this as a permanent "fix" !

To R & R an oil pan can be a MAJOR job .. it depends on which chassis you are working in and with.

Posted By: Leeann on 09/26/07 07:54pm

I'm with the others on oil pan replacement. I don't know about yours, but we have to replace the oil pan gasket anyway as it's not sealing well any more.

Yes, a vapor barrier is a very good idea. We might just do that when we replace the ceiling material...

I don't know about your roof, but ours supports me (and I'm NOT light). Just be gentle and spread out your weight as much as possible as even a light person can put a hole in a roof by concentrating all their weight in one spot.

I'm jealous...all I have are the medium duty and light duty truck (and car) Bendix brake catalogs for the 60s and 70s.

'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo

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