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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's? |
Posted By: Trish Davis
on 09/07/07 06:15pm
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Go off for 2 days to come back to 4 pages of new information. Sheesh. Travco, '69 w/ 318, ballast resistor: Which one? Where? It's easier to just bring one with me. |
Posted By: Leeann
on 09/07/07 06:58pm
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'69-'74 ballast resistor: Chrysler part no. 2275 590 Could be anywhere, but most likely on the firewall, next to the coil or on a bulkhead board at the back of the motor (closest to cabin) with the voltage regulator. Wiring diagram on mytravco.com: ![]() ![]() '73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo |
Posted By: Leeann
on 09/07/07 07:55pm
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Suddenly they're coming out of the woodwork? ![]() eBay Rectrans |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 09/08/07 02:14am
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glw wrote: ![]() Griff in Fairbanks wrote: ![]() glw: RE: rumble ... check your driveshaft. It may be 90 or 180 degrees out of sync. Try disconnecting the rear u-joint and turning it 180 degrees. Also, check the shaft for looseness and lack of grease ... a loose, out-of-balance, or out-of-sync driveshaft can cause weird harmonic noise. Either the PO just tolerated it, or something went wrong, he didn't want to repair. ![]() Thanks for the input! ![]() You're welcome. If everything's tight, then it's more of an annoyance than problem. In your circumstances, I'd pay a neighborhood teen-ager $10 to crawl under there and try to find something loose. Shouldn't take them more than a few minutes. The entire drivetrain will have some play but there shouldn't be any play from one part of the driveshaft to another. My biggest concern would be the u-joints. If they're going bad, you'll definitely want to replace them. Usually, you'll hear a clunk or clank from the drivetrain when you put it in gear if the u-joints are going bad. I've never tried it myself but I've heard of some people getting an equipment inspection from the highway patrol or whoever monitors commercial trucks in your state. Wouldn't hurt to give them a call, tell 'em you're concerned about safety, and ask them if someone could look at your driveshaft to make sure it's safe. Worst that can happen is they'll tell you no. Personally, if my trucks aren't making subtle noises and "talking to me", I figure they're up to something and plotting some form of unpleasantness. * This post was edited 09/08/07 02:24am by Griff in Fairbanks * 1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year) 1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in. 1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A ![]() |
Posted By: glw
on 09/08/07 02:36am
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Griff, I had this looked over well when I 1st bought it, so I doubt there is anything loose under there. But hey, he couda missed something. He had it for a week. I have two son's that could crawl under it and try to turn it and look for play, I'll try that. If they find something I will take it by the Mech. again. Thanks again........... ![]() ![]() |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 09/08/07 02:55am
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Sorry, everyone, some idiot with a backhoe cut the main cable between Anchorage and Fairbanks, knocking out telephone and internet for most of interior Alaska. I've been offline for over 24 hours and my DSL is still non-op so I'm on dial-up again. The rear spring info will have to wait a bit more because I've got a bunch on internet related work to catch up on. Leeann - Sorry, I forgot about that leanburn fiasco ... I was thinking of the 2V Holleys from the mid-60s. Trish - the ballast resistor is a white ceramic object, about 4 inches long and 1/2 to 1 inch wide. It usually has a mounting bolt through the center and wires attached to each end. (I hope I'm not repeating anything.) The ballast resistor decreases the voltage to the coil, which increases the life of the coil and sparkplugs. Generally, the ballast either works or it doesn't ... no inbetween. If it breaks, the coil and sparkplugs don't get any juice. Most Mopars have a bypass circuit when the ignition switch is in the start position. This bypass provides higher voltage to the coil, and hotter spark, when you're starting the engine. Once you release the key and the switch returns to the run position, the circuit reverts to the ballast resistor. A bad ballast resistor can be frustrating to diagnose because the engine will run when you hold the key in the start position but dies as soon as you release the key to the run position. To the best of my knowledge, a bad ballast resistor is the only thing that causes this scenario ... engine runs in start position, immediately dies in run position. A ballast resistor can last a few thousand miles or hundreds of thousands of miles and there's know way of testing or telling how long a particular resistor is gonna last. The first (original) one on my '77 B200 lasted 1-1/2 or 2 years, the replacement lasted 5-1/2 years and was still going strong when I sold the van. Gotta get back to work ... |
Posted By: 79powerwagon
on 09/08/07 09:13am
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Trish Davis wrote: ![]() Go off for 2 days to come back to 4 pages of new information. Sheesh. AND WE MISSED YOU!!! ![]() She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow! ![]() |
Posted By: startfirst
on 09/08/07 04:19pm
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I have a 1975 Tioga with 36,000 miles on it. Runs great and getting ready to go to Mexico. I'd rather send the money on vacations than on a new one.
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Posted By: whiteknight001
on 09/08/07 04:49pm
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79powerwagon wrote: ![]() Trish Davis wrote: ![]() Go off for 2 days to come back to 4 pages of new information. Sheesh. AND WE MISSED YOU!!! ![]() Yeah. And Ma taught us to share things... hee hee!! M 1972 Mobile Traveler 20' Dodge B300 Class C "The Kobayashi Maru" Trans- Prarie Land Craft "Requiescat in pace et in amore..." |
Posted By: whiteknight001
on 09/08/07 04:50pm
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startfirst wrote: ![]() I have a 1975 Tioga with 36,000 miles on it. Runs great and getting ready to go to Mexico. I'd rather send the money on vacations than on a new one. I know that's right! Welcome to our world!! M |
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