Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: Leeann on 09/05/07 10:00pm

Hell, yes! Always good to have part nos. for things I probably will need in the near future...

I really, really like that idea, Griff. In fact, I might hafta steal one of your ideas for once [emoticon]

I just put up a quickie photo page with a lot of photos (dialup warning) of the rig - early, middle and late photos for comparison purposes. I need to take a few more updated photos, but in the meantime...
http://web.mac.com/leeanns24/Site_1/Photos.html

'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo

Posted By: glw on 09/05/07 10:05pm

Leeann wrote:

(please say no; my fingers hurt!) [emoticon]

Well, I can't sleep so thought I'd look around on here a little more.

LeeAnn, This Chinook was NOT without it's problems either. Nothing major but brakes. The old LP tank would not shut off. I had a local guy drain it for me then I took it off. I made a quick conn on the side of the rv for a 5gal one. Anyone around Phoenix need a 10gal tank, you can have it for Free...does need cleaned up and a new valve though.

[image]

Along with this LP tank problem, I ran across a broken line to the stove. Found the one coming out of the stove to the distribution block and just made a quick connect out to the side of the RV for it. 4 adaptors and a gas line later...Geeeez!

[image]

And of course I couldn't cut the hole in the right place the 1st time.... [emoticon]

, but my son found a easy solution....

[image]

Got 6 more of these stickers in the Glove Box....LOL.

The seal was leaking on the toilet(if you saw my earlier post)got that repaired this Holiday weekend. Also, the valve in the drain for the Gray and Black tanks needed replaced.

I put almost $1600 in the brakes all the way around it. New disks, Drums, rotors and did the wheel bearings while they had it torn down, they were almost down to the metal. Can stop on a dime now.... [emoticon]

I also did a shade tree tune up (I call it) Plugs, wires, distr. cap. Tuned up the carb. Had the radiator flushed and new hoses and cap.

I did buy a NEW Yamaha EF2400iS generator too.... [emoticon]

ALL I NEED IS TIME TO TAKE IT OUT..... [emoticon]

Gary Webb
Phoenix, AZ

* This post was edited 09/05/07 10:15pm by glw *

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 09/05/07 10:09pm

Leeann wrote:

Go ahead, steal it ... I've stolen enough of your ideas.

My offer still stands to host a section for your motorhome on my domain ... that way I'll have all your good ideas in one place and can steal them easier.

Spring info coming shortly ... let me grab my notes and catalogs.

1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Posted By: Leeann on 09/05/07 10:14pm

Oh, I absolutely love your son's solution!

There isn't an old vehicle on the road that doesn't have its little issues - and yours are pretty little (other than the price tag for the brakes, that is). I still think you did really well.

We just fixed a problem at our propane tank, too. Some idiot installed the valve/adapter/I haven't a clue what it's called and the bf's asleep/thingie that goes between the valve and the regulator without teflon tape - and didn't make it tight on either side (screws in both sides). bf fixed that - no more teeny (and I mean teeeeeeny) leak. Ours looks like yours, though, and I want to clean it up and paint it white.

Hey, you shouldn't have to touch the brakes or wheel bearings ever again. And that's peace of mind [emoticon]

Mine are actually really good - we stop on a dime, too - but we haven't done anything to ours. Yet.

We need to do the same thing - find time to take it out - we've spent so much time working on it. We've had it out for 2 races and will take it out again next month for another...then work like heck on it all winter to make it a bit prettier.

Posted By: Leeann on 09/05/07 10:16pm

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

My offer still stands to host a section for your motorhome on my domain ... that way I'll have all your good ideas in one place and can steal them easier.

Hehehehehe [emoticon]

I might take you up on that...but then I'd have to get all kinds of organized and stuff and put up more than just a quickie page [emoticon]

Take your time on the spring stuff - I really need to hit the sack (I'm a little late...).

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 09/05/07 10:25pm

Leeann wrote:

Take your time on the spring stuff - I really need to hit the sack (I'm a little late...).

'nite, sleep tight ... I need to eat, put away tools, wash dishes, clean the house ...

Spring info will be here when you wake up.

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 09/05/07 10:30pm

Leeann wrote:

Hey, you shouldn't have to touch the brakes or wheel bearings ever again. And that's peace of mind [emoticon]

Mine are actually really good - we stop on a dime, too - but we haven't done anything to ours. Yet.

Didn't you have a problem with a vacuum leak on your brake booster? ... or am I thinking of someone else?

Posted By: glw on 09/05/07 10:42pm

Griff, Nope not me.....I wish that was all I had wrong with them.... [emoticon]

LeeAnn, I think the $$$ was well spent on the brakes and bearings too. Nothing like being able to stop 8000-9000lbs, coming down hill at 50-60MPH... [emoticon]

I've also replaced a couple of spindles with frozen bearings on them, not fun on the side of the road.

If I can just get a trip in now, I'll be a Happy Camper.... [emoticon]

Have a good night ya all.

Gary Webb
Phoenix, AZ

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 09/05/07 11:04pm

glw wrote:

Griff, Nope not me.....I wish that was all I had wrong with them.... [emoticon]

Sorry, Gary, I meant Leeann ... recollection from a discussion with her elsewhere.

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 09/05/07 11:32pm

Spring Info:

Chassis: 1969 Dodge M300, although I have reason to believe the same or similar parts were used on Dodge trucks from early '60s through mid-80s. (Which, for some perverse reason, means parts are harder to find than a whitetail deer three days into hunting season.)

BTW: If the local parts store doesn't have a listing for M300, see if they have a listing for P300 ... they were virtually identical, with the P300 being the chassis used for delivery trucks. (Personally, I think Dodge came up with the M300 designation because people had trouble believing their expensive motorhome was built on the same chassis as Larry's Laundry truck.)

Front springs: OEM part number 2907 937. 1700 lbs capacity, 7 leaf. (may be listed as 6+1 leaf). Spring Research Institute (SRI) number 34-676. 2-1/2" wide, 1" eyes, front and back.

Note: SRI numbers are used by many spring manufacturers ... if the number starts with a 34- it's probably a SRI number. (34- is the SRI prefix for Dodge truck springs.) SRI is a database of the specifications for hundreds (thousands?) of springs ... SRI members can use the info in the database to scratch-build new springs.

Front spring bushing: OEM part number 1920 540. 2-1/2" wide rubber bushing with inner and outer steel sleeves. Outside diameter is 1", inside diameter is 1/2" ... used a 1/2" dry bolt for mounting the spring. (Bolt usually knurled under head to prevent bolt from turning in the shackle/bracket.)

NAPA (and other places) have listings for replacement bushings and probably have them in stock ... but don't bother. An alternative is both cheaper and better ... Energy Suspension part number 5.2102. $20.00 for a complete front spring set (for all four eyes) of polyurethane bushngs. (NAPA's OEM replacements were over $40.00.) Also, the Energy Suspension bushings are much, much easier to install.

Front shackle repair is an issue I'm still working on and will report when I have confirmed details.

Many people recommend melting/burning the rubber out of the OEM bushings to remove them. Personally, I don't like (really, really don't like) using heat anywhere near the springs ... too much chance of ruining the springs.

Step 1 - use a 1/8" drill (or anything else you can come up with) to remove as much rubber as possible. (The more you remove, the easier the rest of the process will be.)

Step 2 - drop a cheap 1/2" bolt into the inner sleeve and use a hammer to drive out the inner sleeve. (Air hammer is best, 4 pound hammer will work ... use a short chunk of #4 rebar as a drift pin if you need to.)

Step 3 - soak the outer sleeve and spring eye with PB Blaster ... it may take multiple soakings over several days or a week to loosen the outer sleeve.

Step 4 - drive the outer sleeve out of the spring eye using whatever works ... I used cold chisels and rebar driftpins to cut up and drive out the sleeves ... just be careful to avoid damaging the spring eye.

Enough for tonight ... rear springs next time I'm online.

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