Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: eyeteeth on 08/21/07 07:54am

I feel like I paid too much for mine, but then I see what people are trying to get for some of these units and I feel a little better. I'm just bothered as there was more water damage then was disclosed... and being on the far end of a one way trip without other means of return and an already paid for MH...

Everyone who's walked through it still thinks it was a good deal... but you won't convince me until I get the stuff fixed and I don't have to keep scraping up $$$ to put into it.

BTW... Why would the transmission slip when cold and starting from a stop? The engine will rive a bit, then "thunk". I try to time it so it's a soft thunk... any ideas? A vacuum sensor somewhere?

Posted By: Trish Davis on 08/21/07 08:03am

eyeteeth wrote:

BTW... Why would the transmission slip when cold and starting from a stop? The engine will rive a bit, then "thunk". I try to time it so it's a soft thunk... any ideas? A vacuum sensor somewhere?

Let it warm up in Neutral. Trans fluid needs to expand to work right.
Don't rev the engine, be nice to it, high rpm's make cold transmissions upset.

Also, when it's good & cold, climb under there and "hang" out of the driveshaft near the rr universal --trust me, you'll know it when you see it. See how far it "gives," universals (U-joints) are not that complicated to change.

Then do the same thing where the driveshaft connects to the bell housing in the rr of the tranny.

Your "clunk" is likely coming out of one of those 2 places.

For the tranny, new fluid, modulator, filter, etc.
Smell the trans fluid first, real old stuff is uhm... unmistakable.

Posted By: Big_John on 08/21/07 08:05am

Could be a couple of things with the trans doing that. I would look at the fluid level first. Make sure you check in neutral with the engine idling. Also make sure the top of your dipstick isn't messed up. Sometimes the spot weld at the top of the little cap is broken and the stick will push down farther then it should, giving a false reading.

Posted By: Trish Davis on 08/21/07 08:05am

Leeann wrote:

I'll park on the other side of you and then we'll have orange - green - pink with speckles [emoticon]

Riiight....
Who's bringing the blacklight?

Posted By: Big_John on 08/21/07 08:06am

Trish, there's no modulator in a torqueflite trans.

Posted By: 79powerwagon on 08/21/07 08:20am

The Mopar 727 will only pump fluid when NOT in park. That's one reason why they slip a bit after sitting a while. All other suggestions are valid.

Also, the kick-down linkage needs to be adusted correctly for proper tranny functions. While everyone calls it a "kick-down" linkage, it's really a pressure regulator of sorts. If it's not adjusted properly, you WILL toast your tranny. If it's not connected at all, that will happen even faster.

The 727 uses all mechanical links, no vacuum.

Hmmmm, pink, green, orange, 3D glasses and black lights... Sounds like the parties I went to when I was a kid! [emoticon]

Pass the Boones Farm, please!

She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!

Posted By: Leeann on 08/21/07 08:38am

Trish Davis wrote:

Leeann wrote:

I'll park on the other side of you and then we'll have orange - green - pink with speckles [emoticon]

Riiight....
Who's bringing the blacklight?

We've got a bulb around home somewhere.....and a lava lamp, too [emoticon]

Besides checking the tranny fluid for the, ahem, bad smell, check it for metal bits. Just in case...

'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo

Posted By: Trish Davis on 08/21/07 09:16am

Dodge made a 400 for a couple years. Tell me about it.
Especially since I got the Torqueflite info wrong....

Got a disco ball leftover from some party I don't quite remember.
The Daughter wants to hang it up on the awning (what awning!? I haven't bought the motorhome yet!) instead of camping lights.

Posted By: Leeann on 08/21/07 09:30am

From allpar.com:

The 400 engine was introduced in 1972 in standard and high performance versions. The 400, a “B” type engine, is a large (4.34) bore version of the 383B engine.

In 1978, the 360 and 400-cubic-inch V-8 engines gained dual concentric throttle return springs in addition to a torsion throttle spring. Exhaust-valve seats were induction-hardened on all engines to allow satisfactory use of lead-free fuels. In the hardening process, seats reach a temperature of 1700°F and are then allowed to air-cool. This hardened the valve seat surfaces to a depth of .05" to .08" which gives them greater resistance to wear than unhardened seats. The exhaust-valve stems were chrome-plated for increased resistance to wear.

The heat valve in the right exhaust manifold diverts hot gases to the floor of the intake manifold which helps to vaporize the fuel mixture when the engine is cold. This results in faster warm-up and improves driveability after a cold start. During warm-up, a thermostatic spring allows the heat valve to open to the exhaust pipe-so gas flow through the intake manifold crossover passage is decreased.

All 1978 Chrysler V-8 and 6-cylinder engines have an adaptor to receive a magnetic probe for timing the ignition magnetically. The adaptor is a little steel sleeve attached to the bracket that has the traditional timing marks-you can still set the ignition with a timing light. However, ignition timing was set magnetically on all engines at the factory for accuracy. The magnetic timing adaptor will also help those who have the equipment to time Lean-Burn engines magnetically.

The performance aspects of the 'B' and 'RB' engines faded from 1972 on until the last 'B-RB' engine was produced in August 1978, ending the history of Chrysler Corporation big-block engines.

Posted By: eyeteeth on 08/21/07 09:32am

Hey... I have a lava lamp at my desk and in my studio. You're not making fun of lava lamps are you? [emoticon]

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