Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Joined: 04/21/2005
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The rubber bellows boot is available at some parts stores, if you want a new one.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Joined: 06/27/2017
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:The rubber bellows boot is available at some parts stores, if you want a new one.
I’m getting a brand new booster & master. They’re the originals, build date “5 155 Y” & “5 163 P”, respectively....Tuesday, June 4th, 1975 & Wednesday, June 12th, 1975.
Time for new.
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
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BitsPerSecond
Tricities, TN
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Joined: 05/27/2018
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Finally going to connect the power today. Yesterday was a scorcher. But I managed to get a lot done. I knocked a hole in the block wall. Ran PVC conduit up from panel, through the wall and into the box. Patched around the pipe with cement. Fished the wire through the conduit and connected the new box with the hookup. The only thing I didn't do was connect the panel. For two reasons, that would require turning the power off and its not my house. The friend who owns the house is going to do that today.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/oYFVekxl.jpg)
I also cut the end off of that horrid splice. And replaced it with a proper one. The cord, just reaches the hookup now, without stretching too much. I'll fit a longer cord later. The cord was #8 wire so it doesn't need replacing right away. I only ran #10 to the box, but its less than a five feet run. If it were longer I would have gone with #8.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/8O67vQEl.jpg)
Today's plans include finishing the power hookup and checking it. Then I'm going to disconnect everything but the AC circuit in the camper before I plug-in. At least until I can double check everything.
Next up I'm going to do some interior work. Because it isn't outside and because it can be done cheaply. First, I need to do some work on the Overcab where one of the running lights was leaking. I patched the leak the day I brought it home, but I won't know how bad it was until I start working on it. Second, the carpet has got to come out. It is nasty! Third, the whole camper needs scrubbed top to bottom.
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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BitsPerSecond wrote:I also cut the end off of that horrid splice. And replaced it with a proper one...
Next up I'm going to do some interior work...
Holy **** that was one ugly cord! I can't stand seeing that gauge cord with regular electrical tape around it, it should have heavy-duty heat shrink tube around it.
Be careful with interior work, one small project turns into a gutted rig, LOL! Ask me how I know. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
Yesterday I ordered everything I need to get the Monaco mobile again. New fuel hoses, vent hoses, all new brake parts (booster, M/C, calipers, cylinders, pads, shoes, hoses, copper washers), except the rotors and drums, which I'll have turned. I'm hoping that, with 58,xxx miles, there'll still be enough meat on them. I also got the correct Mopar 185° thermostat, heater hoses & exhaust manifold gaskets.
If anyone is interested, here are the correct part numbers for the MB300:
Mopar 185° Thermostat - 3512998/4131239
Power Brake Booster - Cardone 54-73121
Brake Master Cylinder - Cardone 13-1339
Right Brake Caliper - Cardone 184073S
Left Brake Caliper - Cardone 184074S
Front Brake Pads - Bendix MKD86FM
Right Brake Cylinder - AC Delco 18E855
Left Brake Cylinder - AC Delco 18E889
Rear Brake Shoes - AC Delco 17314R
Front Brake Hoses - Raybestos BH36718
Rear Center Brake Hose - Raybestos BH36963
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets - Fel-Pro MS90460
Heater Hose, 1/2" x 6' - Dayco 80291
Heater Hose, 5/8" x 6' - Dayco 80292
I still have to do the suspension, which needs to be completely redone front & rear...coils/leaf-springs and all rubber bushings. So, while it'll be mobile, it's not going on the road, until I get that done. Then it's re-installation of the new black tank/PVC fittings, new toilet, new windshield and she's ready for the road again!
* This post was
edited 07/03/18 09:18am by StingrayL82 *
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Eric Hysteric
Hildesheim
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Joined: 09/19/2017
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Thanks for the Partnumbers StingrayL82. Last weekend i did my first testdrive. Changed transmission fluid (6 quarts Mopar ATF+4), differential fluid (75W-140), new Carter Thermmo-Quad 4BBL carburetor, new ignition parts ......
The fluid in the diffential had consistency like honey :-)
The engine and the TF A727 are running very smooth but after a 20 miles long round i put my hand on the rims and both front wheels were very hot. The front brakes didn't release. So yesterday we changed the front brake hoses, brake fluid (DOT3) and checked the caliper at the front brakes. The brake pistons at both tires were very stiff, so we removed the brake pistons, cleaned the calipers inside, changed the old rubber rings and assembled the calipers. The brake fluid had a color of rusty water, so i think it was the first brake fluid from 1979 :-) The Dodge is starting, running, shifting and braking very well. There are still only little things to do like changing the head lights, repairing wiper linkage...
![[image]](https://img2.picload.org/image/dlgiiapr/img_20180620_204805358.jpg)
'79 Dodge Sportsman 5.9 LA 360 TEC Campmate
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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Joined: 09/04/2003
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Bits... You're gonna LOVE that 30A power right there at your parking! We've done that on two houses and it's great to be able to cool/heat while getting ready for a trip (let alone cleaning up after!) with Fridge cool, etc. You can also use your RV if house HVAC goes out, you need a guest room, and so on. Those Calipers are SO easy to rebuild! I'd never done any so I paid a mechanic to do ours. Put'em on and one leaked! Had to buy my own kits and do it myself anyway.
For the Splice, I found double thick large diameter adhesive lined heat shrink tubing from Vertex Marine. Part 81473. Starts out at 1" inside diameter so it'll slip over a splice in 30A Shore Tie Cable. Only 6" long though so I overlapped two pieces when I repaired our cable. From the Class C forum, you'll see how I hate shore tie extension cords. The less "plugging" you do, the better. We were on a side in Georgia using a 25-foot 30A extension. Had the plug under the coach to keep rain off of it...When it Caught Fire!!! Repaired with Yellow butt crimp connectors and tape. When we got home, I found the Vertex tubing, re-spliced with more butt connectors, but... split the yellow plastic off and soldered the crimped connections. Then put the split plastic back over and secured with small heat shrink. Staggered splices to make less of a bulge than all three lined up. Wrapped in black tape to approximate original cable diameter, then shrank the Vertex tubing over all that. We now have an approx 50' shore tie that doesn't overheat like it did at the extension receptacle and plug.
Eric, congrats on the 75-140 axle lube. Did you use Synthetic?
Brake Fluid... You can make a pressure bleeder with an extra master cylinder cap with a hose fitting added to it. Then a pump-up garden sprayer. You could put fluid in the sprayer, or just use it as a pressure source and keep refilling the master.
Tip on brakes dragging: Think of brake application as a Handshake. When Drum brakes release, the Shoes are retracted by Springs. You can actually see that, so think of breaking the handshake and letting go of the other person's hand. Disk is different, no springs. Think of a handshake where the grip is released but hands are still together. You can't look at the hands and see if the handshake is strong or weak. The Pads stay in contact and only two things release them. One is taking the pedal pressure off. Hoses can get restrictive so it's good you replaced them. The other is motion on the road. As the calipers are released, they try to rattle around a little and that action works the pads loose.
BUT! Because there's so little pressure on disk brake release, there's no "jet" of fluid back to the Master Cylinder like the springs cause with drum. The little Equalization Port in the front chamber of the Master can "heal up" with corrosion. Then a little apply pressure remains against the Caliper pistons. I had this on a car. As the brakes heated up they'd actually Apply! Slowed the car down, tried to stop it! Rebuilt the Master twice before I noticed the tiny little plugged hole. Cleaned it out with a very small drill and ran a hone down the bore to make sure I hadn't caused a burr that would ruin the piston seal.
The clue is this: Probably a Hose or Caliper will drag on one side. Master cylinder will drag both front brakes at once.
I was in Hamburg recently and see you aren't too far from there. If I can get back, might try a visit to your area and look at those churches. We were on a Rhine River cruise and I was sick the day we were in Cologne. It was also raw cold and rainy, so being sick I stayed aboard. Really wanted to climb to that dome. Daughter's in Hamburg for two years, so we transferred over there by train. She picked us up in the early afternoon and by dark she had me at Helios Klinik where they found my "cold" was acute pneumonia. So I had a cultural immersion into German medicine and hospitality with six nights there. Gave me a real appreciation for the kind and competent German People.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB
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Leeann
Maryland
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Joined: 08/22/2006
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Eric Hysteric wrote:Changed transmission fluid (6 quarts Mopar ATF+4)
The 727 does NOT take ATF+4. It takes Dexron. ATF+4 is for '90s and newer Chrysler transmissions with overdrive, which the 727 definitely is not.
![[image]](https://s20.postimg.cc/6khaxslwd/727_Fluid.jpg)
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Joined: 06/27/2017
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Eric Hysteric wrote:Thanks for the Partnumbers StingrayL82. Last weekend i did my first testdrive. Changed transmission fluid (6 quarts Mopar ATF+4), differential fluid (75W-140), new Carter Thermmo-Quad 4BBL carburetor, new ignition parts ......
The fluid in the diffential had consistency like honey :-)
The engine and the TF A727 are running very smooth but after a 20 miles long round i put my hand on the rims and both front wheels were very hot. The front brakes didn't release. So yesterday we changed the front brake hoses, brake fluid (DOT3) and checked the caliper at the front brakes. The brake pistons at both tires were very stiff, so we removed the brake pistons, cleaned the calipers inside, changed the old rubber rings and assembled the calipers. The brake fluid had a color of rusty water, so i think it was the first brake fluid from 1979 :-) The Dodge is starting, running, shifting and braking very well. There are still only little things to do like changing the head lights, repairing wiper linkage...
NICE!!!!! That’s what I love to read.
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Leeann wrote:Eric Hysteric wrote:Changed transmission fluid (6 quarts Mopar ATF+4)
The 727 does NOT take ATF+4. It takes Dexron. ATF+4 is for '90s and newer Chrysler transmissions with overdrive, which the 727 definitely is not.
The information in our service manuals is outdated, Leeann.
The guy who rebuilt my 727 only does Mopar automatics and is a drag racer. He and I discussed DexMerc vs Ford Type F vs ATF+4 as nauseam...his recommendations were that DexMerc (what replaced Dexron II, III & IV) is what you want, if you’re going the non-synthetic route.
If you want synthetic, ATF+4 is the best and works well in the 727...it’s what I bought.
Ford Type F is what drag racers use, due to the lack of friction modifiers, so the trans grabs every gear hard, but it builds up heat quickly and isn’t good for road use.
He said absolutely stay away from Dexron VI, because the engineers developed it for the new transmissions, but it sucks and is causing major problems for all the transmissions...rubber seals swelling and blowing out.
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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StingrayL82 wrote:Leeann wrote:Eric Hysteric wrote:Changed transmission fluid (6 quarts Mopar ATF+4)
The 727 does NOT take ATF+4. It takes Dexron. ATF+4 is for '90s and newer Chrysler transmissions with overdrive, which the 727 definitely is not.
The information in our service manuals is outdated, Leeann.
The guy who rebuilt my 727 only does Mopar automatics and is a drag racer. He and I discussed DexMerc vs Ford Type F vs ATF+4 as nauseam...his recommendations were that DexMerc (what replaced Dexron II, III & IV) is what you want, if you’re going the non-synthetic route.
If you want synthetic, ATF+4 is the best and works well in the 727...it’s what I bought. It does not destabilize like Dino oil under heat.
Ford Type F is what drag racers use, due to the lack of friction modifiers, so the trans grabs every gear hard, but it builds up heat quickly and isn’t good for road use.
He said absolutely stay away from Dexron VI, because the engineers developed it for the new transmissions, but it sucks and is causing major problems for all the transmissions...rubber seals swelling and blowing out.
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