DRTDEVL

SPAM Town, USA

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TreeSeeker wrote: RvFNG76,
A 125w refer is going to draw roughly 1 amp on 120vac. That will be 12 amps on a 12vdc source and that is not even counting the draw of the converter. And remember the refer has to run 24hrs so at night it has to run only on battery power. For 8 hrs of darkness you would need 12amps x 8hrs = 96 amp hrs of battery power.
For a 120 amp hr battery you can only use half of that without damaging it. So you only get 60 amp hrs. But to charge the batteries back up you need to double the number of batteries since the refer draw continues even when the solar panels are charging. And I haven't even counted all the other battery draws.
The are reasons RVs come with gas refers.
There is a flaw with your math. You are assuming a 100% duty cycle for the fridge. This is not the case.
I run a dorm fridge, 110 watts. This comes out to 0.92 amps. It definitely is not 100% duty cycle, a typical fridge runs a 35% duty cycle. This means in 8 hours of overnight, so in my case that .92a that would be 11a on 12vdc isn't 88 amp hr, but just under 31. For his setup its not 96 amp hrs, but just under 34.
Resurrecting an inherited 1980 Minnie Winnie 20RG from the dead after sitting since 1998..
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Leeann

Maryland

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Joined: 08/22/2006

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I would do the same as Stingray.
And then I'd install a new propane line and a 3-way fridge. I bought mine on Craigslist for not a lot of money and my husband fixed the 12v (wired backwards) so it runs correctly on propane, 12v and 110v.
We run the 12v while driving so we don't have to stop and turn off propane at tunnels, then switch to propane as soon as we reach our destination. We cool it down via 110v before we leave.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
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Griff in Fairbanks

AK

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Joined: 04/21/2005

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When I retired from the Air Force, my wife and I moved to Fairbanks and lived off-grid for about 10 years. Our teenage children still lived with us for the first few years.
A lot of experimentation to get things reasonably reliable and economical. In particular, I needed a computer for university classes so electricity was a big issue.
Initially, coolers to store food and a propane camp stove. Within a year, we had a propane range, refrigerator, and lights in the cabin we rehabbed. (Wood heat from a big barrel stove.)
When we move 18 miles farther from town, all the appliances (and wood stove) were moved to the new cabin I built. We also added a direct vent propane heater.
When the electric grid reached us, we connected to it. Our average monthly utilities bills jumped 30-50 percent. We accepted that as a matter of convenience. However, we still have the propane heater as our primary heat source. (It does not need or use any electricity so it's good during the periodic power outages.)
Our experiences translate well to motorhome.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
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Griff in Fairbanks

AK

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Leeann wrote: I would do the same as Stingray.
And then I'd install a new propane line and a 3-way fridge. I bought mine on Craigslist for not a lot of money and my husband fixed the 12v (wired backwards) so it runs correctly on propane, 12v and 110v.
We run the 12v while driving so we don't have to stop and turn off propane at tunnels, then switch to propane as soon as we reach our destination. We cool it down via 110v before we leave.
Check your gas mileage when running the fridge on 12v versus not. You may be surprised.
When we first got to Fairbanks, we used the refrigerator in the motorhome, running between the cabin and motorhome to fetch milk and so on.
The morning after we hooked up the new (house-type) propane refrigerator, an unopened gallon of milk was frozen solid. For the first few weeks, the kids were turning the fridge thermostat down because "our sodas aren't cold enough." Then they'd complain in the morning because the milk for their cereal had ice crystals in it. (Well, duh?)
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BitsPerSecond

Tricities, TN

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Joined: 05/27/2018

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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
Check your gas mileage when running the fridge on 12v versus not. You may be surprised.
I assume you mean that the gas milage would go down due to higher draw on the alternator? What kind of difference are we talking?
I havent looked at the fridge in my brougham yet. But I would like to be able to run it on 12V while driving.
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Leeann

Maryland

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Has made zero difference. 7 mpg without 12v fridge, 7 mpg with 12v fridge.
And anywhere we go in ours, we would have to stop, turn off propane, drive through tunnel, stop and turn propance back on. For some trips, more than once. No thanks.
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Griff in Fairbanks

AK

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BitsPerSecond wrote: Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
Check your gas mileage when running the fridge on 12v versus not. You may be surprised.
I assume you mean that the gas milage would go down due to higher draw on the alternator? What kind of difference are we talking?
I havent looked at the fridge in my brougham yet. But I would like to be able to run it on 12V while driving.
I can't say for sure. My suggestion is based on the shadetree 12v generator I rigged up when we were first living off grid.
Leeann indicated I'm comparing apples to oranges. So, I'd rely on her first hand experience rather than my indirect comparison.
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BitsPerSecond

Tricities, TN

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Leeann wrote: Has made zero difference. 7 mpg without 12v fridge, 7 mpg with 12v fridge.
And anywhere we go in ours, we would have to stop, turn off propane, drive through tunnel, stop and turn propance back on. For some trips, more than once. No thanks.
That was my concern also. Thanks for the info.
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DRTDEVL

SPAM Town, USA

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I get 8.5 mpg whether running the fridge or not. When you're talking about an 8,000 lb vehicle running at 3,000 rpm down the highway, an 11 amp draw is nothing.
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StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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I decided to get some more free work done on the Monaco. This time I decided that, since I cleaned up the engine compartment, it wouldn't do to leave the brake master/booster bracket in the state it was. I wire wheeled it and painted it, and it turned out great. Upon re-installation, I used PermaTex on the metal "gasket" that goes on the firewall first. I also soaked the four 9/16" bolts in CLR, to get the surface rust off of them and then clear-coated them. Before reassembly, I shot a nice liberal amount of high-temp grease in the cavity that houses the rotating pin....smooth! I won't have issues for a really long time, considering it wasn't binding to begin with. The engine compartment is now a happy place to look at.
Before shot. Old and not so pretty.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/WjJkKPGl.jpg)
I found mud daubers in between the master & booster.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/g113niSl.jpg)
Painted and pretty again.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/ClJvNs2l.jpg)
The finished product.
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
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