Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Joined: 04/21/2005
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RvFNG76 wrote:Well shes finally all legal eagle after being set to the side for a year the ford tires and rims off my f350 performed well. Next is to get the exhaust fixed have a leak on the passenger side where the manifold meets collector. Does anyone have an idea on where i can get manifolds as my drivers side is cracked. Also cam question what would be the best cam to put into the 360
Thanks for the info.
Does anyone know if there's 17" duallies that fit the same Ford trucks?
I need 17" or larger rims to clear the large Kelsey-Hayes dual piston calipers on the front of my RM350. Chevy Silverado dual rims won't work. I want same/same all around and need to replace the 17.5" rims to find the M&S/offroad tires I need.
RE: manifold. Big block or small block? If small block. I may have a manifold in my spare parts collection.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Joined: 06/27/2017
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RvFNG76 wrote:Well shes finally all legal eagle after being set to the side for a year the ford tires and rims off my f350 performed well. Next is to get the exhaust fixed have a leak on the passenger side where the manifold meets collector. Does anyone have an idea on where i can get manifolds as my drivers side is cracked. Also cam question what would be the best cam to put into the 360
Junkyard is your best bet for the manifolds. Anything post ‘79 with a 318 will fit, as Mother Mopar used 360 heads on them...that’s how I got my intake manifold. An absolute must is to take them to a machine shop an have them milled; it will ensure zero exhaust leak issues. I have yet to see SB Mopar exhaust manifolds that weren’t a little warped. Make sure they mill them and that they DON’T put them on a belt sander. I learned that lesson with the Fireball.
I’m not at home right now, but I’ll get you the Crane cam model number I used in my engine. Final numbers were 275hp & 325 lb/ft.
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
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toedtoes
California
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Joined: 05/17/2014
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StingrayL82 wrote:toedtoes wrote:I know when I rebuilt my 360, I put in a new 4bbl carb (it had a rebuilt 2bbl). That first trip out, a friend with a 440 was joining me. He couldn't keep up with me.
Good! That's what I wanted to hear (or read, as it were). On the dyno, mine was a beast, but real world application trumps all.
What kind of mileage are you getting with it?
Not sure on the mileage yet - had problems with the fuel tanks. Will report back after my next trip. In the past, I was getting 7-10mpg depending on terrain. Expect i'm getting the same or better now.
1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)
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Fbx-Ak
Fairbanks, Alaska
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Joined: 11/17/2017
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Eric Hysteric wrote:Fbx-Ak, Holley Sniper fuel injection. How cool is that! What is your experience? Before and after, if you had a comparision between the carburetor and injection. The fuel injection is much more responsive and meters gas exactly as needed. Computer controlled and adjustable. No unburnt gas getting into the cylinders.
It requires a high-pressure fuel pump and a return line to one of the tanks. That means that if you are running off the non-return tank, it has the potential to overfill the return tank. So you have to watch your gauges to be sure that doesn't happen. We can now use an auto-start to remotely start it. You don't have to be sitting in the vehicle pumping the gas pedal to start it on a cold morning.
We have had a minor problem with gas starvation at high temperature under load, as in going up a long hill at high speed. It is probably an issue of the fuel pump not keeping up with volume needed. Perhaps a lighter foot would help.
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Joined: 04/21/2005
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Fbx-Ak wrote:It requires a high-pressure fuel pump and a return line to one of the tanks. That means that if you are running off the non-return tank, it has the potential to overfill the return tank. So you have to watch your gauges to be sure that doesn't happen. We can now use an auto-start to remotely start it. You don't have to be sitting in the vehicle pumping the gas pedal to start it on a cold morning.
There are valves, for switching between dual tanks, that also switch the return line to the appropriate tank ... I think. (It's been a while since I got involved in that kind of issue.)
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Eric Hysteric
Hildesheim
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Joined: 09/19/2017
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I have next question ;-) At my Carter Thermoquad i had a vacuum line from the carburetor to the air pump diverter valve. Now at my Edelbrock 1406 carburetor i have 2 vacuum ports. Timed vaccum port and manifold vacuum port. I use the timed vacuum port for the distributor and the manifold vacuum port is free. Should i connect the vacuum line from the air pump diverter valve to the manifold vacuum port at the carburetor or should i deactivate (cork) the vacuum line from the air pump diverter valve?
![[image]](https://img1.picload.org/image/dodlogpw/airpumpdivertervalve.jpg)
![[image]](https://img1.picload.org/image/dodlogwl/temp3.jpg)
![[image]](https://img1.picload.org/image/dodloror/airpumpdivertervalve2.jpg)
'79 Dodge Sportsman 5.9 LA 360 TEC Campmate
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Joined: 04/21/2005
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Eric Hysteric wrote:I have next question ;-) At my Carter Thermoquad i had a vacuum line from the carburetor to the air pump diverter valve. Now at my Edelbrock 1406 carburetor i have 2 vacuum ports. Timed vaccum port and manifold vacuum port. I use the timed vacuum port for the distributor and the manifold vacuum port is free. Should i connect the vacuum line from the air pump diverter valve to the manifold vacuum port at the carburetor or should i deactivate (cork) the vacuum line from the air pump diverter valve?
Sorry for not responding sooner, I've been terribly busy lately.
If I recall correctly, Edelbrock has extensive technical and support sections on their website. Based on what I've heard, they're also good at responding to emailed questions.
It's been almost two decades since I messed with (exhaust/smog) air pumps and that was on a 1980 Ford 351M. (Your air pump looks identical to the Ford one.)
The air pump injects air into the exhaust stream, usually at the exhaust manifolds. The extra air causes unspent hydrocarbons (fuel) and carbon monoxide to be converted into carbon dioxide and water. (Oxygen + heat + chemical reaction.) Hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide are major components of smog.
A non- or malfunctioning air pump system causes an increase in backfires, especially when you let off the accelerator. Before I got my Bronco straighten out, one backfire split the muffler open at the seam, sounded like a gunshot, and the police were called.
I'm fairly sure the distributor should be connected to the manifold vacuum port and the air pump diverter valve to the timed vacuum port. But, double check with Edelbrock. (IIRC, "emission-controlled engines" is a legal rather than technical term and didn't show up until the mid-80s.)
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Make sure your PCV (positive crankcase valve) is connected and working. Otherwise, pressure builds up in the crankcase, possible leading to a blown crankshaft seal or oil pan gasket. (I need to replace the pan gasket on my E150 for that very reason.)
Also, make sure your power brake booster is connected to the carburetor. (Except for some recent Chevys, power assist brakes work off vacuum.)
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RvFNG76
Michigan
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Joined: 07/14/2017
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:RvFNG76 wrote:Well shes finally all legal eagle after being set to the side for a year the ford tires and rims off my f350 performed well. Next is to get the exhaust fixed have a leak on the passenger side where the manifold meets collector. Does anyone have an idea on where i can get manifolds as my drivers side is cracked. Also cam question what would be the best cam to put into the 360
Thanks for the info.
Does anyone know if there's 17" duallies that fit the same Ford trucks?
I need 17" or larger rims to clear the large Kelsey-Hayes dual piston calipers on the front of my RM350. Chevy Silverado dual rims won't work. I want same/same all around and need to replace the 17.5" rims to find the M&S/offroad tires I need.
RE: manifold. Big block or small block? If small block. I may have a manifold in my spare parts collection. small block 360 2 bbl wanna go 4 bbl but havent nailed it down yet. The engine in this monster is untouched except for the egr being removed (plate slightly leaks) by previous owner. Another fun little deal now is speedometer jumps and goes nuts every once in awhile checked the gear in the tailshaft but it looks fine any ideas?
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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RvFNG76 wrote:small block 360 2 bbl wanna go 4 bbl but havent nailed it down yet. The engine in this monster is untouched except for the egr being removed (plate slightly leaks) by previous owner. Another fun little deal now is speedometer jumps and goes nuts every once in awhile checked the gear in the tailshaft but it looks fine any ideas?
You can do what I did and hit up a junk yard for the 4BBL intake and carb. Any '79-newer Mopar with the 318 will have what you need, as the 360 heads were used on that engine.
As for the speedo, lube it. Graphite spray with the small red straw...unscrew both sides and shoot it down the ends. If that doesn't fix it, the problem is probably in your speedo unit.
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