StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Joined: 06/27/2017
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There is a guy by the name of John Strenk. Google him and the word “Jeep”. He’s forgotten more about automotive electrical stuff than I could ever learn. If it’s possible, he’s done it.
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Joined: 04/21/2005
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Ignitions systems and charging (alternator) systems are functionally separate. Voltage regulators and alternators are close-coupled units within a single (sub)system. Loose coupling between separate (sub)systems allows a degree of mix-and-match. Within a (sub)system, tight cohesion mandates all components work together precisely.
Ramblers (then Nash ... then AMC) always had a tendency to be cobbled together from different sources. I recall one person bitching about having to go to three different dealers to get parts for his Nash sedan.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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StingrayL82 wrote:There is a guy by the name of John Strenk. Google him and the word “Jeep”. He’s forgotten more about automotive electrical stuff than I could ever learn. If it’s possible, he’s done it.
Thank you, will do. (My tired, aging brain tells me I've heard that name before.)
Addendum: Googled the name and looked at one article ... John Strenk has been added to my list of sources for good information and possible help.
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:StingrayL82 wrote:There is a guy by the name of John Strenk. Google him and the word “Jeep”. He’s forgotten more about automotive electrical stuff than I could ever learn. If it’s possible, he’s done it.
Thank you, will do. (My tired, aging brain tells me I've heard that name before.)
Addendum: Googled the name and looked at one article ... John Strenk has been added to my list of sources for good information and possible help.
He's been on the Jeep Forum for years. I consider him a mentor and friend.
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Eric Hysteric
Hildesheim
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Joined: 09/19/2017
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Thank you for you answers! There is a carburetor-adapter and and airfilter in the set Griff. I am very happy about it and hope i can use this adapter on my Edelbrock carburetor.
![[image]](https://img3.picload.org/image/dadgcipi/img_20180218_192516533.jpg)
'79 Dodge Sportsman 5.9 LA 360 TEC Campmate
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Eric Hysteric
Hildesheim
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There are some parts i need to make it back to original
Don't laugh about the turn signals :-)
![[image]](https://img3.picload.org/image/dadgcpwl/img_20180211_135632912_burst00.jpg)
![[image]](https://img3.picload.org/image/dadgcpww/2017-11-0918.08.35.jpg)
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VintageMopar
Missouri
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Joined: 09/14/2013
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I always thought the "ground the green" wire to full field the alternator was a good system on the old 2 wire solid state mopar regulator. Easy enough to diagnose also..![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
That ford 4 wire regulator does temperature compensation too i think, one coil was temp, the other alternator regulation inside. Or was one powering fields, and other reg?
Maybe where you are Griff the temp thing might be an improvement over just voltage regulation 13.5-14.1 depending on battery resistance with the Mopar unit
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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VintageMopar wrote:I always thought the "ground the green" wire to full field the alternator was a good system on the old 2 wire solid state mopar regulator. Easy enough to diagnose also..
That ford 4 wire regulator does temperature compensation too i think, one coil was temp, the other alternator regulation inside. Or was one powering fields, and other reg?
Maybe where you are Griff the temp thing might be an improvement over just voltage regulation 13.5-14.1 depending on battery resistance with the Mopar unit I've only ever had one problem with a Mopar charging system. That was the older mechanical voltage regulator dying in my 1969/70 Explorer motorhome. Found a new OEM equivalent replacement for less than $20. Never had any charging problems in '66 Polara nor any of the other Dodge vehicles I've owned or worked on.
I had planned to convert to electronic regulator but OBE. (Simple plug-n-play swap.)
Yes, Dodge charging systems are simple and reliable. The common 65 amp alternator was just about bombproof. Brushes and bearings would eventually wear out (and could be replaced), especially if you spent a lot of time in an dusty environment. (Southcentral Alaska has a lot of glacial silt in the air, mostly from the many rivers.). The mechanical voltage regulators were durable and the electronic version lasts just about forever.
I used the alternator and mechanical voltage regulator out of a mid-60s A100 (mid-engine) van to make a 12VDC generator in 1996. Worked well enough for recharging the motorhome's deep-cycle house batteries. Biggest problem was the 3-1/2 hp horizontal shaft small engine I used was too small. If the batteries were significantly discharged, the alternator would stall the engine. (I used a toggle switch to manually 'nurse' it until the batteries were recharged enough to let the regulator take over.)
Note: Most older voltage regulators do NOT measure battery resistance. (GMC and Ford in addition to Mopar.) Instead, they sense system voltage level. Exact cut-in/out level varies. In general, they energize the alternator field when system voltage drops to some point below 12.5 volts. In turn, they de-energize the field when system voltage approaches 14 volts. (13.5-13.7 VDC is optimum for recharging lead acid batteries.)
The main drawback of older Dodge charging systems is they are essentially single-stage automatic battery chargers. For maximum battery life, it's a good idea to periodically use an IUoU (multi-stage) battery maintainer or charger.
An IUoU maintainer/charger is also useful for keeping the SLI (engine) battery warm and fully charged in subfreezing temperatures. Battery warming pads and blankets are worthless and sometimes damage the battery. A partially discharged battery is still partially discharged regardless of ambient and battery temperature. Subfreezing temperatures just make things worse.
Note: A well maintained older Dodge will start at -40 degrees even without an engine heater. A Ford full-size Bronco and E150 Club Wagon wouldn't. (Been there, done that.)
Ambient temperature sensing is useful for fine tuning charging profile. If a Ford voltage regulator includes that capability, it's a point in favor of trying one with a Dodge alternator. I just need to do a bit more research and actually try it.
(One of my local Ford experts retired and left the state ... the other managed to get himself convicted and imprisoned.)
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Everybody - please put your motorhome year, make, Dodge chassis model, engine, and so forth in your profile or signature block (or both). Signature block is better (see the signature block in my first post on any thread page).
I spend a lot of time tracking down who has what when I try to help you and try to track down parts. (I've even thought about maintaining a list of who has what.). In addition to the people on this thread, I'm also helping several dozen local people, all with a wide range of vehicles.
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Eric -
The model years 1978 to 1979 marked a change in Dodge van body styles, mostly cosmetic. 1978 and earlier had separate front turn signals and side markers. With the 1979 model year, Dodge went to wrap-around combined turn signals and side markers. In 1978 and earlier models, people had to see the front of the vehicle to notice turn signals. In 1979 and later models, a turn signal could be easily seen from the side of the vehicle.
For now, I'm going to leave your 'backwoods shade-tree' front turn signals alone. Instead, focus on the easier restoration task -- the side door step wells.
1. Start by scrubbing the step wells with boiling hot water, dish soap, and trisodium phosphate (TSP). Very hot water and dish soap by themselves will work but the addition of TSP will make cleaner easier, faster, and more thorough. Use a medium stiff bristle brush and gloves to keep from 'cooking' your hands. (You want to work the dish soap/TSP solution in well, without scratching the paint.)
2. Follow with a thorough rinse using boiling hot clear water. (Or, at least very hot water ... hot enough to where you can't stand to dip your fingers in it.) You may want to use the thoroughly rinsed scrub brush. Regardless, you want to remove (rinse off) as much crud, dish soap, and TSP as possible. (The next step will handle the little bit of dish soap and TSP that might remain.)
At this point, you could use rust converter but the result would be evident when you're finished. If you choose rust converter, you need to remove all dish soap/TSP and dry it thoroughly. (I'd use a hair dryer or heat gun.) Follow the rust converter's directions carefully and use a degreaser if the directions say so.
However, based on your picture, I'd use a rust remover containing phosphoric acid. (Don't worry about the acid ... it'll be diluted and is the same thing that's in Coca Cola.)
3. Use a reddish brown Scotch Brite pad and rust remover. I use PPG DX579, diluted with clean water per instructions on the bottle. (If you can't find DX579, PM me available alternatives and I'll see if they're suitable for your purposes.) DX579 has two dilution ratios, a stronger concentration for rust removal and a weaker solution for metal prep prior to painting. (There's a third ratio on DX579 bottles for aluminum but I prefer to use other PPG products made specifically for aluminum.) Drench the rust and surrounding area with rust remover. (A spray bottle works best but you can swab or pour it on.) Scrub it thoroughly with the Scotch Brite pad, using a lot of physical effort, and wipe off the residue with a clean rag.
Initially, the rust remover will turn brown as it lifts and dissolves the rust. Repeat applying rust remover, scrubbing, and wiping clean until you don't see the rust remover turning brown. (You may still see some white in the rust remover, in the form of paint particles.) Extra applications and scrubbing is better than not enough. You should be left with bright shiny metal and dull paint.
You can rinse with clear water towards the end, to remove bits of rust and paint. However, the final application should be just wiped dry with a clean lint free rag and allowed to air dry. (This will prevent flash rust and help the paint adhere.)
4. Degrease, prime and paint. Grease and wax -- even minute quantities -- prevent the primer and paint from fully adhering to the substrate, so use a good degrease/wax remover. Priming is important because you essentially have bare metal.
You're going to have to be careful to color-match the paint. Blend (feather) the new paint into the old paint. (Primer needs to extend beyond the bare metal and paint needs to extend beyond the primer.)
Personally, I'd scuff up the old paint in the entire step well, clean, degrease, mask, and repaint the whole works.
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