Hannibal
Tampa Bay Area
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Actually, when I started driving I didn't know what O/D was. We ran 2500-3k rpm at 70mph and 2nd gear (passing gear) was the sound that meant power was delivered. Along came O/D for CAFE reasons, not towing. Had nothing to do with power or towing. Then diesels started showing up in pickup trucks and since they couldn't rev, they towed in O/D that was meant for low load fuel efficient cruising. Didn't work out too well. Over the years transmission have been beefed up to accommodate towing in O/D. I went along for the ride. So going back to the way it was before isn't something new, strange or foreign to me. Difference is we now have over 300 HP out of a small block, more fuel efficient, longer lasting engine that runs low rpm empty and "normal" towing rpm while towing. Works for me!
The possibility of a $12k fuel system repair doesn't give me diesel envy but hopefully that's very rare. If 8.5 mpg towing is going to break the bank, 10.5 mpg isn't the solution. It's all about what your priorities are.
2020 F250 STX CC SB 7.3L 10spd 3.55 4x4
2010 F250 XLT CC SB 5.4L 5spdTS 3.73
ex '95 Cummins,'98 12v Cummins,'01.5 Cummins,'03 Cummins; '05 Hemi
2017 Jayco 28RLS TT 32.5'
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smcrea
Maryland
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smcrea wrote:I am strongly considering getting a Diesel 3500. One concern is that Diesels seem to be "dirty" clouds of black smoke etc.
Can anyone tell me what the NEW diesel engines are like if they have to meet lets say California emissions standards.
All the research that I've done points me to a diesel engine for my new truck. The only remaining concern is "how dirty" we have visions of black disgusting vehicles :-)
Thanks
All I can say is.. "Wowwww"
Today I took a drive to the Chevy dealer to take one more look at those Diesel's.!!!
Here's what amazed me:
- The gasses coming out of that tail pipe are far far far less noxious that anything I've ever smelt coming out of a gas engine. In fact I got my nose down and practically stuck it in the tail pipe and all I could smell was 'hot air'.. (don't worry I wont make a habit of doing this) LOL.. The point is that I was worried about the black clouds of smoke and this puppy turned out to be cleaner than a gas engine!
- The second thing was that this dealership allowed me to take this truck out on the freeway. I always thought that Diesels were a bit 'sluggish'.. WRONG!.. this thing took off!.. certainly on a par with my 1/2 ton GMC Yukon!
So can I ask a question on maintenance costs..?
- I've heard that oil changes are a bit more expensive. but how much more?
- Any other regular additional diesel related maintenance on the diesel engine such as replacing filters of any kind?. How much and how often.
Having driven that diesels today then I'm going to need a lot of convincing NOT to get one :-).. but I'd like to know what I'm letti8ng myself in for as far as maintenance goes.
Thanks!
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Hannibal
Tampa Bay Area
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Then go get it! I've owned six and like I said I've enjoyed every one of them. Every male human should own at least one. If you can afford such a pickup, the extra little bit for the fuel and air filters is negligible. Oil changes amounts to 12-14 qts instead of 7. If you get it, I would suggest keeping it bone stock, maintain it by the book and avoid gimmicks and snake oil. And for Pete's sake tint the windows. You don't want folks to see you in there THAT happy! ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
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rhagfo
Portland, OR
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Hannibal wrote:Then go get it! I've owned six and like I said I've enjoyed every one of them. Every male human should own at least one. If you can afford such a pickup, the extra little bit for the fuel and air filters is negligible. Oil changes amounts to 12-14 qts instead of 7. If you get it, I would suggest keeping it bone stock, maintain it by the book and avoid gimmicks and snake oil. And for Pete's sake tint the windows. You don't want folks to see you in there THAT happy!
Another WOW, is this what a Diesel is like.
No they are not all Coal Rollers, eve those earlier models down to 2000 or that have some mild mod, may roll a little black smoke getting a load on the freeway, but are quite clean.
What you see rolling huge clouds of Black Smoke have been heavily modded and have too biger injectors for their air supply.
New diesels are not only clean , but also quiet and very powerful.
Do your self a favor, unless you are brand centric, drive a Dodge Ram. You don't need a V8 to make lots of power.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#
"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"
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smcrea
Maryland
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Hannibal wrote:If you get it, I would suggest keeping it bone stock, maintain it by the book and avoid gimmicks and snake oil.
Thanks for the input!
I'm still a 3 year rooky at towing, so am still learning the jargon..
Without making myself look to dumb, could you possibly translate the above for me
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Hannibal
Tampa Bay Area
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Bone stock is like it came from the factory. Maintain it by the owner's manual and not the aftermarket advertisers. Only use approved by the vehicle manufacturer OEM (original equipment manufacturer) style filters, parts and maintenance items. No additives are necessary or recommended by the manufacturer other than those that are in the owner's manual. If the owner's manual says no to extended oil change intervals or additives, then pay no attention to those fancy adds claiming you need their products for your truck. Just my humble opinion based on a high level of reliability from a long list of vehicles.
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motoadvrider
Rio Rancho,NM
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I was always one of the ones that thought the cost of the diesels and upkeep were way too much for the benefit. Boy was I wrong. I had a 09 GMC 2500 6.0 gaser that towed my 8000lb 5er without too much trouble unless we were going up a long or steep hill. The best mileage I ever got was 10mpg on a relative flat road with no wind. You add a few hills and the ever present Texas wind and mileage dropped to 7 to 8mpg. Not towing a trailer it would get 13 in town and 15 to 16 highway. The beast also required the use of premium gas which usually costs the same or more than diesel.
I retired in August and gave myself a present...2012 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel King Ranch Crew. It gets 16 to 17mpg in town and 18 to 19 highway. Towing the 5er it got 12mpg on a windy day and 12.8 on a calm day....again only the slight hills in Texas.
If you mash on the gas pedal you better be buckeled in because that thing turns into a rocket.
Bob & Linda
Rio Rancho,NM
2012 Ford F-250 Diesel, King Ranch
2014 Crossroads Cruiser Patriot
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smcrea
Maryland
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I've always been one for keeping my vehicle as "Bone Stock" ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile") I'm learning the jargon :-)
I 100% agree.
BTW When towing I use synthetic oils with no additives.
So are we saying that we should only use Manufacturer Oil filters? Is this really practical?
How do I know a good oil filter from a bad one? same deal with air filter and other consumables. It's not always practical or economic to use GM, Ford, Dodge whatever parts?
One other related question? How good and trustworthy is the "Oil Life Indicator".
On my current GM Yukon, when I reach 3K miles I change the oil using synthetic but the change oil indicator maybe only indicating 50%. Am I being over careful and wasting my precious money, or should I just trust the oil life indicator more?
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Hannibal
Tampa Bay Area
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I say OEM style as meaning OEM or equivelant approved by the manufacturer. I use Motocraft or Purolator on my Fords. Mopar, Purolator or Fleetguard on my Dodges. No howling intake or droning exhaust for me. I change my oil every 5k miles synthetic or not. Easier to remember, within the manufacturer's recommendation and I sleep well with that schedule. I would trust the oil life monitor but I like a schedule to plan around.
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smcrea
Maryland
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Hannibal wrote:I say OEM style as meaning OEM or equivelant approved by the manufacturer. I use Motocraft or Purolator on my Fords. Mopar, Purolator or Fleetguard on my Dodges. No howling intake or droning exhaust for me. I change my oil every 5k miles synthetic or not. Easier to remember, within the manufacturer's recommendation and I sleep well with that schedule. I would trust the oil life monitor but I like a schedule to plan around.
It's funny you should say "change oil every 5K" I come from the UK and the 'standard' oil change number used in the UK is change every 5K.
Only when I came to teh US did I ever see change oil every 3K
Is this something that was made up by the oil and filter manufactures or is genuine?
5K seems reasonable to me!.. How about everyone else?
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