Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Dinghy Towing: Supplemental Brake Systems - update 8/7/06
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Open Roads Forum  >  Dinghy Towing  >  Supplemental Braking Systems

 > Supplemental Brake Systems - update 8/7/06

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CA Traveler

The Western States

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Posted: 03/17/07 07:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JohnieL,

While you have many choices there are some that you can eliminate. Get a motorhome mounted tow bar so you can just leave it on the rig. Get an adjustable towbar that is easy to disconnect like the Roadmaster All Terrain. Towbars can/do bind easily and can be difficult to unhook.

Do not get a box or removable cylinder type brake. Rather get one that is permanetly installed. Since you have a new car I would get one that is minimum invasive so as to avoid any possible warranty conflicts.

The above is based on your requirements at least as I understand them.

I bought a box brake and it gets to be a pain to install and remove every time so I won't do that again. I also bought a binding type tow bar and is is frequently a pain.

Doing it over I would likely get a All Terrain type tow bar. I would not get any brake unit that taps into the rigs brakes in any way although many like these units.


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pjcnlv

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Posted: 07/15/07 09:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Follow up: We just did the US west coast from Morro Bay to Port Angeles and back home to Las Vegas. We towed our 05 Escalade with Remco pump and Brakemaster 9100 via a Blue OX Aventa LX bar.

The system performed perfectly although we will need a charge line to the Towd as pulling the suspect fuses to kill the phantom load with the key on did not do the trick in total.


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daisymae67k

Anchorage, AK

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Posted: 08/25/07 11:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I read about the brake systems for a toad and about monitoring from the coach so I assume you are talking about a Class A motohome. What about towing with Class C..................which braking system for the toad do you think should be used.

pulsar

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Posted: 08/25/07 12:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

daisymae67k,

Other than the fact that a couple of the systems, M & G Tow Brake and BrakeMaster, have configurations that require air brakes, or air over hydraulic brakes, in the motorhome, none of the systems discussed are specific to Class A motorhomes. (Each of the two mentioned also have a configuration that works without air brakes.)

Tom

ajgibb

Elgin IL

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Posted: 08/28/07 08:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tom,
Thank you very much for the effort you have put into the Supplemental Brake System postings. I wonder if you can help with this question: Do any of the systems activate WITHOUT the coach wheel brake system being used? I'm am thinking of all the controlled slowing I do using the tranny retarder without touching the brake pedal until I'm almost stopped. In other words, is there a system which will automatically (not manually) stop a toad from PUSHING the coach when the retarder is the only braking system in use? It seems to me that all the systems you describe require the coach wheel brake system to be activated. The SMI site seems to suggest the toad can be activated independently of the coach but what it says in one place it seems to contradict elsewhere. What do you think about the issue of a toad, especially a heavy one such as a Suburban, pushing against a retarder or a jake brake?
Thank you
ajgibb

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Posted: 08/28/07 09:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Some of the systems are activated only when the rig service brake is used. Others use an accelerometer and are independent of how the rig is slowed. Mine is set so that it does not activate with the exhaust brake, but if that is what you want just adjust the settings.

Engine and tranny brakes provide more capability and would be more prone to activate the supplemental brake.

My take is no activation on grades and minimum activation on normal stops.

ReadytoRide

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Posted: 08/29/07 09:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The system I use activates with the engine brake. It requires positive input from two sources to activate: 1) MH brake light on, and 2) toad is pressing inward on the towbar (ie moving faster than the MH). If either the MH brakes are released (service and/or engine) or the toad slows down enough to relieve the pressure on that switch, the toad brakes disengage. The amount of pressure to the brake pedal in the toad can be adjusted. The system also has it's own vacuum pump so it's not a "dead pedal."


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Jpa5807

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Posted: 11/07/07 09:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi, I have been reading this forum a lot lately and I want to ask everyone why isn't there any mention of installing electric brakes on the rear of a dinghy in place of the regular hydraulic brakes. It would be a simple conversion it would seem with a controller under the dash for everyday driving and another controller in the motorhome when towing. Adjust the setting and the electric brakes would operate just like regular. Am I missing anything about this? Antilock brakes on the toad would be a issue in the conversion but I'm sure could be handled. Any thoughts?

pulsar

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Posted: 11/07/07 10:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I can't comment on your electric brakes per se. It seems that it would be better discussed in a thread of it's own. By the way, the antilock brake system would not be active.

Tom

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Posted: 11/08/07 08:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jpa5807,

Start a new thread and post it here and I'll give you my thoughts.

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