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Livin Good

On The Road

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Joined: 12/07/2008

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Posted: 08/02/09 05:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jermaregoolsby wrote:

need advice on fogged windows on 98 bounder 36s how to get to top screws
thanks


Wrong thread...re-read the rules.

Danielwin92

Quebec

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Posted: 08/03/09 08:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

i have the same problem with a winnebago 1992..

how do you make the repair..

Daniel







namvet wrote:

RV particulars: Itasca Suncruiser
Driveline: Workhorse 8.1L, Alison Transmission
Miles:36500
Year:2001
Break Down Description: While driving along highway the "Auto Park" light began blinking on and off. I could hear the hydraulic pump cycling as though it was trying to release the parking brake. The default position for the brake is "applied", which could have resulted in a 'catastrophic' event.
Symptoms:"Auto Park" light blinking; hydraulic pump cycling
Effect: Loss of hydraulic fluid from auto park brake reservoir
Cause: End of hydraulic ram had loosened allowing fluid to spray out when pressure was applied to release the brake
Outcome: Removed access cover, tightened end of ram as tight as possible, and refilled reservoir. Suggestion : Keep a regular check on reservoir fluid level


hhornig

Eagle, NE

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Joined: 09/04/2006

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Posted: 08/12/09 12:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I can't believe that I read the whole thing. Sixty seven page, over approximately 6 years. Still no summary, but I can see how difficult it would be. It would help to break it into gas and diesel for one thing.

My stories and I am sad to say they are plural go back to when I first bought the coach on consignment from a dealer. Unfortunately the low mileage was due to the coach sitting a lot while the owner was on various assignments around the country. It helps to drive these babies as they are made for that. Most of my problems have appeared here before so I won't go into great detail, suffice it to say that it was very traumatic at the time. I have met several small shop diesel mechanics who are really a great breed. The following is my expierience since 2004 when we bought the coach:

RV particulars: Monaco Dynasty, Roadmaster Chasis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)[emoticon]ummins 8.3 325 HP, Allison 6 Speed
Miles:30,000
Year:1997
Break Down Description: First trip after purchasing it used. Pulling a flatbed trailer with SUV on it. Stopped for fuel and engine wouldn’t turn off. Finally found a fuse to pull which shut off the engine.
Symptoms: Engine won’t turn off.
Effect:
Cause: The RV dealer installed a trailer wiring kit which did not have a solenoid disconnect and the trailer break away battery fed back into the coach.
Outcome: Disconnected the trailer plug every time I stopped during the rest of the trip. Never did fix it since I switch to towing 4 wheels down shortly afterwards.

This particular problem has been experienced by another forum member who I was able to help via the internet while he was on the road experiencing the problem.


Miles:35,000

Break Down Description: After camping in the rain for a few days the engine would not start.
Effect: Fuel solenoid would not open shut off valve.
Cause: Corrosion on wire connector.
Outcome: I hot wired the valve with a fuse and switch to get home.
Seems like every owner should know the ins and outs of their particular fuel shut off valve since this appears to be a frequent problem.


Miles:35,000

Break Down Description: Alternator was not charging.
Cause: Broken wire.
Outcome: Ran on battery until it dropped to 11 volts then stopped and charged battery off of generator.


Miles:37,000

Break Down Description: Fuel fogging the toad.
Cause: Loose injector
Outcome: Found a truck shop and mechanic tightened the injector-$20. Cost $30 to clean toad and engine.
I am going to check fuel lines and injectors more frequently since this appears to be a common problem.


Miles:40,000

Break Down Description: Lost power due to low turbo boost
Cause: PacBrake cylinder pivot mount broke and causing butterfly to block exhaust flow to turbo.
Outcome: Because mechanics thought the turbo had blown they suggested the mh be towed to a truck shop. Mechanic checked out turbo and then found the problem with the PacBrake. He wired it open. Cost tow $680 covered by insurance, mechanic diagnosed problem with temporary fix and re-install drive shaft $65. I fixed the PacBrake for the cost of a new cylinder $78.


Miles:42,000

Break Down Description: Engine high temperature light and alarm went on while gage indicated normal engine temperature.
Cause: Suspect faulty sensor.
Outcome: Cooled the engine to ambient and restarted. Alarm was still on while gage indicated a cold engine. Disconnected the sensor and carefully monitored engine temperature gage. Have not fixed it yet.

PittsburghDave

Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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Posted: 08/25/09 10:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was crossing Rt80 in Pennsylvania at the end of June with cruise control set for 60MPH and was just at the top of a slight rise when the speedometer went from 60 to 0 a couple of times then the cruise control turned off, the digital mileage display turned off, the tow/haul light came on and the transmission dropped into third gear. I continued a short distance to a truck plaza and when I pulled off of the exit the transmission stayed in third gear. I shut the engine off and started it again and when I put it in gear it was still in third gear. Reverse worked ok but only third in forward positions. Called Ford Service and they arranged storage locally until today when we attempted to tow it to a local Ford Garage. When the tow truck arrived I had to move the rig to hook up and found that everything worked ok. Ford said it was the speed sensor on the output shaft on the transmission but could not get it to reoccur and sent me on my way with instructions to call if it happened again.

Well it did happen again this time 1200 miles laer as I exited the Kanas turnpike on Rte 35. Ford sent me to Enid OK. (Stephens Ford) and they replaced the speed sensor on Friday, the altanator on Monday, ignition coils (two at a time) on Tuesday and then determined it was the Powertrain Command Module. They had to order that from Pennsylvania. They replaced the Powertrain Control Module after it arrived by UPS at three in the afternoon on Thursday and I went with them for the 50 mile road test. The situation did not occur so I packed up and headed north. Two days and 1200 miles later I made it home with no problems. They said Ford felt it was a bad PCM that kept reading a bad speed sensor when the sensor was ok. It sure kept me on edge all the way home waiting for it to happen again. Sure was glad to get out of Enid Oklahoma after spending a week there. I will be going after Ford for some compensation for hotel rooms as it happened under bumper to bumper warranty to first time making it a recurring incident. Stevens Ford in Enid were great to deal with and went out of their way to look after us while we were there. Great to be home.


Dave "> and Judy ">
2006 Fleetwood Bounder(32W)w/(Scan Gauge)
Pressure Pro TPM)(Clean Dump Macerator)
2003 Tracker ZR2 w/Blue Ox Aventa II Tow Bar,
Base Plates and SMI 4 wire Stay and Play Brake System">


diceman4848

west sacramento

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Posted: 08/25/09 11:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We all need a good extended maintenance program for break down's and I though I had one in Good Sam. I had a air compressor go out along at the same time no flow in the air dash. So I was submitting 2 claims.
Good Sam denied both claims. They said because a seal went bad which caused the compressor to leak and seals and gaskets are not covered they will not pay for the new compressor. As I explained to them that this wasn't caused by a seal and according to the invoice it was a leak and there was a bad O-Ring which caused the break down they will not pay for this part of the claim. Almost 1200.00 dollars. After going back and forth with them they send me a check for 531.00 saying they where giving me a good jester payment. My point to them was ok if you are giving me a good jester payment which is saying I'm guilty and here is some I'm guilty money, why not paid for the whole thing.
No such luck. Next part of the claim is they won't pay for the flume because of an alignment problem and alignment in not covered in the policy. Now here is a part that worked for 7 years and broke never to work again and they called it and alignment problem which didn't even read that in the invoice. 1700.00 down the toilet.

Keep in mind that your RV is pretty much made up of seals and gasket's and including the engine so if you have a Good Sam Extended Maintenance Policy you may want to re think it.
I did find another company who will cover seals and gaskets and read all the fine print and hope they will up hold the policy on my next break down and I'm sure I will have another break down along the way.

I'm not saying all of Good Sam is bad as I had good luck with there road service in the passed but now my life time membership doesn't even feel like a friendship.

Thanks for listining and happy motoring

BudParrish

Clear Lake, Texas

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Posted: 08/27/09 02:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My 2 cents from August 8, 2009:

RV particulars: Monaco Diplomat SFT, Roadmaster Chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission) Cummins 8.9 400 HP, Allison 6 Speed World Trans
Miles: 9,000
Year: 2008
Break Down Description: Houston TX to Marietta GA. 2nd day, on I-285 West approx 1/2 mile prior to Exit 18, thought I hit something even though road was clear and traffic light. Immediately "ALTERNATOR FAILURE" light came on. Presumed the fan belt broke.
Symptoms: Alternator Failure light blinking, alarm sounding. Engine Overheat Light and alarm shortly thereafter, "LOW BATTERY" light and alarm.
Effect: Engine overheating.
Cause: The fan belt pulley bearings failed, causing/allowing the fan and pulley to tilt forward and down. The fan (plastic) hit the crankcase pulley and shattered all 8 blades almost to the base. Shards of the fan cut the fan belt. More shards were thrown through and into the radiator. Some of the fan pieces even penetrated the heat shield and there were deep dents/cuts into the floor base in the master bedroom area.
Outcome: Towed to Cummins Power South. This is a Motorhome specific Cummins Service Center. They were terrific, fixed everything in a timely fashion. Bill Thomas, Cummins Service Advisor, arranged the tow after offering three different tow companies. The repairs were covered under Cummins warranty. The tow covered under Good Sam ERS. Fan and radiator had to be ordered from Monaco (YIKES!!!). We were back on the road in 6 business days, most of the delay due to getting parts from Monaco.

Bud

jerrit1

Michigan

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Posted: 09/01/09 01:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RV particulars: Fleetwood Southwind
Driveline (Engine, Transmission) Chevy 454 4bbl gas, 3spd auto
Miles: 75,000
Year: 1983
Break Down Description: Engine would not start after shutting it off.
Symptoms: Engine would turn over but not start.
Cause: After determining there was no fuel getting to the carb I replaced the mechanical fuel pump...still didn't work, I then replaced all of the steel fuel line from engine to rubber hose exiting the top of the gas tank. Still didn't work. I then replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an electric fuel pump and mounted it on the chassis just after the fuel tank...still no fuel. I then removed the rear queen bed and cut a hole in the floor above the fuel tank and replaced the rubber fuel hose. All working now.
Outcome: The engine runs now.


1983 Fleetwood Southwind 28'


J.W.T.

Houston

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Posted: 09/10/09 01:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hot June day in Texas on I-45 between Houston and Dallas. Cruising with the traffic flow when a tremendous crunching and metal rending noise emaninated from the dog house. We pulled over on the side of the road and after cooling off crawled under to assess the damage. DW said it sounded like the fan blade came off. (What do they know) Yep it was the fan blade. 1/2 of one blade had broken clean off and had traveled down to the balancer where it was stuck and making the horrible noise. I pulled it out and found no other damage so we slowly made it to the next town and a repair station. The break was a cvlean one with no cracks etc. We did not hit anything or have anything bounce up off the raod. We had checked this item when we checked the belt tension before we left. We had made no adjustments so it was a big mystery why the blade would fail as it did.

Fulltimers

Anywhere, USA

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Posted: 11/29/09 07:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RV particulars: 2003 Rexhall 3550BSL
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 8.1L gas, Allison 5 speed, Workhorse Chassis
Miles: 35000
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Loss of power
Symptoms: Running along fine, sudden loss of power then resumes running along fine.
Effect: loss of power
Cause: Crankshaft Position Sensor
Outcome: Replaced sensor an no further problems

We were running down the interstate when the motorhome lost power for less than a second then resumed to running fine. Happened 3 times during a 300 mile trip. An engine scanner found codes p1518 and p0336. Apparently the p0336 caused the p1518 code because once the crankshaft position sensor was replaced all codes were gone. Drove another 300 miles with no problem so far.

Update 10/27/10: Over 42000 miles and still running strong.

* This post was edited 10/27/10 10:41pm by Fulltimers *


Fulltimers
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2003 Rexhall Aerbus 3550BSL
W-22 Workhorse
2005 Saturn Vue (Mr. Toad)
3.5L V6 Automatic



GWFULTZ

SANFORD, FL

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Posted: 11/30/09 01:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

2003 Dolphin

I guess I belong here. I've had 4 Air Conditioning compressor failures as well as other A/C failures since we bought this coach new. Workhorse says it is not a continuing problem even though we had 3 compressor failures in the first 2 years. I'm sure glad they stand behind their product.


Just the two of us

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