2ND HME
Columbus, Ohio, USA
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Joined: 06/14/2004
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This is the scariest (and most helpful) thread on any RV website I visit!
I've always felt it very important to be self-sufficient on the road to be able to fix any problem I might encounter. I've studied every manual that came with the coach, nearly memorized the electrical schematic, and I stuff one of my basements with every tool, connector, wire, lamp, plug, glue, grease, and "magic helper" I can find. Usually two of everything. I carry oil, filters, specialty wrenches, and unusual items that I've read about. Still we pay GS ERS each and every year as a backup.
We love our coach and the adventures and, fortunately, we've been relatively void of serious problems. Last year was the worst.
On a trip to Bloomington, IN we were on the outerbelt south of Indy. It was a bright, sunny day. As a car passed on my left I noticed she had her wipers on. After making a snide comment about the stupid driver I noticed the next car to pass had his wipers on as well. I immediately knew something was up and scanned my gauges. My temp was starting to climb and, at about that same instant I noticed the steering was getting really stiff. I was two lanes from the berm but managed to drift off without incident. It was a hot day and I spotted an overpass up ahead so, in my wisdom, I allowed the coach to coast under bridge to keep us out of the sun (mistake number one). My wife had that "What's going on?" look and didn't know if I was stopping to pee or if there was a problem. I said "We have a problem. I'll be right back" and headed for the door. When I got back to the truck in flat-tow I saw that it was covered in oily goo. I went around to the road side - about 2 feet from the white line with traffic wizzing past at full speed - and laid down to look under the coach. Red fluid all over the road and the underside. Hydaulic. Ouch. Can't do this myself.
Broke the news to my wife and we called GS ERS (GREAT service!). They said it would be about 60 minutes before the repair truck would arrive. In that time I unhooked the toad, cleaned off a spot on the windshield, and stuck my wife and kids in to get them off the busy highway. They headed to Bloomington to meet our appointment there. Once they were gone and safe I pulled out the manuals to re-read how to tow such a beast, just in case some grease-monkey showed up who'd never towed before.
The big diesel tow came right on time and as soon as he greeted me I promptly launched into a speech about what the owners manual said to do to tow (mistake number two). He eyed me as I spoke and when I was done he said "I do this for a living. I'll tell you what, if there's a problem when I'm done THEN you can tell me how to do my job." Ouch, and boy did I deserve that. I apologized as best I could and he did his masterful job. Firstly, once he got the hook under the front axle, he pulled me forward out from under the bridge so he could climb under the coach without being run over (another lesson for me!). He had to drop the driveshaft but in about 1/2 hour I was sitting in his cab with our dog in my lap as we chugged down the highway. To my complete surprise he took the first exit about a mile away, made two quick turns and dropped us into the able hands of PFM Truck Care Center.
PFM was great! Wonderful people who assured me that they'd get me back on the road in just a few hours. I called my wife who was already at Bloomington but she decided to drive back up to Indy to meet me in case I was stuck for the night.
The primary hydraulic hose that controls power steering and the radiator cooling fans had blown and they had to make a new one, which was the easy part. Getting the old fittings to break loose was much tougher and took the better part of two hours. The repair guy was able, quick, very nice and enjoyed talking about what he was doing (while I reminded myself about my lecture to the tow truck driver!). When he saw my interest he made a point of saying I should NEVER try a hydraulic repair myself because the pressures are so high. About $1000 and 5 hours later we were on our way and made the campground south of Bloomington just before dark.
I've learned how to fix most things on the coach, from the cruise, to the steps, to the fridge and hot water tank, fuel, oil, filters, electrical, etc. But what I learned most on that trip was to be a better judge of what I say, and to know when I'm in over my head.
'95 Country Coach Intrigue
'02 Dodge Dakota
Falcon Towbar and Unified Brake
Wife, two kids, and a dog
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2ND HME
Columbus, Ohio, USA
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Joined: 06/14/2004
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Oh, and I forgot to say that the tow bill for the roughly two miles we went was $500 (!) all paid by GS ERS!![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin") My cost of the $1000 total repair was $470.
Love GS ERS!!
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Puddin12
Charlotte, NC
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Joined: 06/02/2005
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Is that Good Sam Emergecy Road Service? How was you rcost of the $1000 only $470?
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2ND HME
Columbus, Ohio, USA
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Yes, it's Good Sam ERS. The total cost, including the tow, was $1079 but the repair was only (!)$470. The rest was the tow, which Good Sam paid.
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2ND HME
Columbus, Ohio, USA
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RV particulars: Country Coach 40' Intrigue
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Gillig, Cummins 300, Allison 6
Miles:39000
Year:1995
Break Down Description: Engine running, guages fine, no power
Symptoms: very little response from gas pedal; RPM response normal
Effect: Slowed to crawl up hill, no power response, confusion
Cause: snapped threads on air inlet line to turbo
Outcome:$1.49 part replaced at Cummins, Columbia, SC. All fine now!
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Mainship
Inverness, FL
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Joined: 09/06/2007
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Boblou wrote:I had not heard of this one before. A friend was traveling in a mountainous area and when he got into town his brakes gave way. Pedal went to the floor. RV specialist drained the brake fluid and put new fluid in system and everthing worked fine. RV spccialist said when the brakes got hot from riding them down hill, your4 brake fluid boils away. Have since reseach and called local RV repairs and they said this was true. So in order to prevent and occurance on my RV i took a turkery baster, sucked out a lot of brake fluid and put new in. I hope i took out any brake fluid contaminated with water vapor.
This month I drove MH from FL to Ohio. After all the hills and mountains on return trip, MH brakes failed when No hills or mountains flat land for 20 miles and normal city driving just before getting to CG. after entering CG in Kentucky stopped normal at gatehouse, started to go to site and at first speed bump tried to apply brakes and it went to floor. slowly manuvered to site and checked all wheels temps, found rear drivers side was 300 degrees while rest were about 150. Bled cylinder, when mechanic showed up from GS's he bled passenger side and helped jack drivers wheel up to check rotation and stopping, gave it his ok to drive. Checked it in cg, cautiously drove and braked all was normal.
Used about pt of brake fluid, fluid I removed from system was black looking actually dark green on pouring.
Side note, most parts on chevy chassis are american, brake bleed valve needed 10mm metric.
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gbsw378
Vancouver
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Joined: 07/31/2009
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One handy trick that worked for us was when we stopped at a fair on our trip. When we returned, the engine (rear diesel, class A) wouldn't start. In fact, we got nothing, not even a click or a moan. BCAA couldn't find us so we were on our own. A older guy (older than me...) came by, took his hammer and banged our starter. Bingo, we were up and running again. Apparently this was fairly common in the "old" days, esp for farmers. He said a rock or anything heavy will do. Haven't had any problems with it since but he suggested it would need to be replaced at some point.
Gary
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namvet
Midlothian, VA
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Joined: 05/25/2002
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RV particulars: Itasca Suncruiser
Driveline: Workhorse 8.1L, Alison Transmission
Miles:36500
Year:2001
Break Down Description: While driving along highway the "Auto Park" light began blinking on and off. I could hear the hydraulic pump cycling as though it was trying to release the parking brake. The default position for the brake is "applied", which could have resulted in a 'catastrophic' event.
Symptoms:"Auto Park" light blinking; hydraulic pump cycling
Effect: Loss of hydraulic fluid from auto park brake reservoir
Cause: End of hydraulic ram had loosened allowing fluid to spray out when pressure was applied to release the brake
Outcome: Removed access cover, tightened end of ram as tight as possible, and refilled reservoir. Suggestion : Keep a regular check on reservoir fluid level
2014 Tiffin Allegro
2 Cor 1:8
"We Were Soldiers Once....and Young"
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jermaregoolsby
bellevue ne.
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Joined: 08/01/2009
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need advice on fogged windows on 98 bounder 36s how to get to top screws
thanks
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edalegsd
Tofield, AB
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Joined: 07/12/2009
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Int' will not start
1994 GulfStream Sun Voyager
Cummins 5.9
Allison 6 sp
Turns out that the "NEUTRAL SWITCH" in the Tranny was starting to fail.
Symptoms = turn the key and the engine would not turn over.
Quick Fix? - by pass the neutral switch on the tranny ;-)
1994 Gulf Stream Money Pit ( Sun Voyager )
B 5.9 Cummins 6 sp Allison Tr
Stuart & Sharon & way too many German Shepherds ;-)
Tofield, Alberta Canada
www.edalegsd.com
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