Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: Breakdown Information
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jdewellz

gulfport,ms.

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Posted: 06/19/08 03:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

speaking of breakdowns.......... have had good sam emergency road service for about 5 yrs. 2 flats and one stuck in sand..... great response and service. have become aware of coach-net road service. any opinions about difference in these two co's and their service? thanks.........

firecoach

Orlando, FL

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Posted: 06/28/08 09:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After being on our trip for several days and riding over some of our country's finest highways we lost the throttle pedal. Engine would go to idle and that was it. Or in our case as when I quickly tapped on the pedal it would resume normal operation or at least we thought. Oh did I mention this was during a down pour with winds gusting to 40 mph. We made it to our camping area but decided to call GS as we continued to have the same problem. If you let off on the pedal you did not know if you would have power or not when you stepped back on it! Roadside mechanic showed up what a waste of hard earned cash 30 min. of trouble shooting and 60 min. of BS. per his suggestions stopped in OK City which we were passing through to have repairs. A day and half later we left with a new computer and headed into another storm with tornado warnings. After 4 days of camping left for Yellowstone and made it north of Denver same problem except now it did it regardless of whether we were under power or not. Not sure if we could make it to a garage which we located about 9 mi. from where we were, so we called GS after waiting 45min for call-back we were told it would be 1-1/2-2hrs for tow truck. Yes we opted to limp along the interstate for 9mi this only took us 45 min. After another day and half camping at a garage a young mechanic found that 2 wires that go to the foot throttle had worn through and were causing a short. Which is what the engine computer was trying to tell them. Over 2500 miles later and no problems. Thanks to Charles at Transwest to troubleshoot the problem the right way.

2003 Newmar Dutch Star with 24000 miles 350 hp ISC Cummins


2003 Newmar 40' Dutchstar, 2008 Jeep Liberty with a Roadmaster all terrain with blue ox base plates using a Air force 1


shooer2

Tazewell, TN

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Posted: 07/17/08 01:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

we've had two breakdowns in the past 10 years. One a rear tire blowout in Maine. A second breakdown last week in South Carolina at the intersection of I-20 and I-95. It was during a terrible thunderstorm driving along and the engine quit running. I had been driving in rain all day. In both cases I used Camping World road service and it was excellent. I had the motorhome pulled to a KOA in Florence South Carolina. They referred me to an onsite mechanic who found my problem to be an air filter that had turned into a sponge. Problem fixed and on to Myrtle Beach.

Edouard

Boynton beach, Fl

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Posted: 07/17/08 05:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Only 1 breakdown in over 11 years with a Class "A". On a return trip from New Jersey, we were warned by a passing pickup that the left front driver tire was going soft.

Stopped on the side of I-87 in northern NY and checked the situation.

Still had reasonable air left in the tire, and the next rest area was in view, so limped into the rest area. We do have roadside assistance, but decided to see if I could do it myself and possibly save some time.

Dropped a couple of 2x6 planks under both front jack's, and raised it up partially, broke all the lug nuts loose, then lifted the front wheels off the ground, removed and replaced the wheel/tire combination with the spare. It was a 19.5" unit, not certain if I could handle the larger 22.5" tire/wheel combo's today, and most units don't come the the spare anyway.

That's it, in the 11 year's of Class 'A' ownership, not bad, knock on wood....


Eugene & Stella

ssands

Nerk, Ahia

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Posted: 07/25/08 03:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Onan Generator problems:
6.5 NHE-FA/26100 P
S/N; G980768473
Emerald Plus 6500

RV particulars: 1999 Winnebago 37G
Driveline: Ford V10
Miles: 61000

Break Down Description: This generator will run for about 10 minutes or so and then the RPM will start to fluctuate and the unit shuts down.

Symptoms: It use to seem to only happen while driving so I disconnected the remote control function just to be sure. No change. Recently as I just drove from the campsite to the dump station and while I was occupied with my "duties" it went unstable and shut down. Generally it will not immediately restart. You have to wait 10 to 15 minutes and then it might restart. My DW tried to restart it after about 5 minutes only to have it start but it never stabilized and just shut down.

Parts changed: Control board, voltage regulator, ignition coil, spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter, oil and oil filter.

Cause: Fuel pump.

Outcome: Well I gave up and took it to a shop. $250 and a new fuel pump later we're fixed. Apparently the fuel pump would heat up and quit. Once it quit, the mechanic removed it and hooked it up to a battery. It was DOA. Ran it all the way home including a few stops along the way, about 1.5 hours, and it didn't miss a lick.


BTW... I want to say how well we were treated at the shop. ATI Machine in Lancaster, Ohio.

* This post was edited 07/25/08 03:17pm by ssands *


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Badeye

Bonaire GA

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Posted: 07/28/08 05:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RV:2005 Sportscoach Elite 401TS
Engine: Cat C7
Transmission: Allison 6 Speed

Symptoms: Application of exhaust brake and service brake would result in a warning light and a message that said, "Brake Fuse 5.6 volts" "Below Threshold 7.0 volts." Exhaust brake is equipped with Brake Switch controller.

Exhaust brake did not activate and transmission did not down shift. Exhaust brake light on panel did not come on.

Found later that brake lights were not coming on either.

Actions: Called Coach net and they put me in touch with Freightliner Oasis facility in LaCrosse WI, about 80 miles away. Since service brakes were working I could drive there. They were open even though it was Sunday but they could not get me in as it was about 2:30 when I arrived. They got me in 7:00 on Monday morning and finally isolated the problem to a shorted wire going to the Brake Switch module. Took the Brake Switch module out of the circuit till I get home and can find the short and all is well. Four hours trouble shooting time, etc for a total cost of $517.

pfunk

Michigan

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Posted: 10/28/08 07:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RV:2000 Holiday Rambler Endeavor
Engine: Cat 3126
Transmission: Allison 6 Speed

Symptoms: Release of all air pressure when releasing park brake
Found park chamber to have broke spring which ripped the diafram and upon removal corroded fitting/line

Actions: tried to cage the brake and the rod was off center with the spring, next day after getting a ride home I found a truck shop that had the chamber I needed (2430 long stroke) taking off the old one took a bit of guts since the brake couldn't be caged and had to release the chamber from the bracket still attached to the slack arm. It didn't move much since the spring was broke (told the wife to dial 91 and keep her finger over the 1) noticed a line was cross threading and upon inspection the threads nerled over when I removed it,, went to Travel America and they had a line for me and a new fitting,, it was getting late and since I wasn't that far from home (and had to work today) I plugged the lines tied em up and took it home. I still have to install the chamber (measure and fit (cut) the pushrod to the other side since I couldn't cage the original),, But I don't have to be in a rush to do so (paying another day)
Total Cost = 121
2430ls from Southwest brake in Hamtramck, mi $63
Airline and Fitting from TA $58 (I think is overpriced, but they were a couple miles away)
Having a brake job like that done with flat tow would probably be 1500 or more


2019 Coachmen Adrenaline 26CB

my49packard

Arden North, Carolina

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Posted: 11/13/08 10:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

my49packard wrote:

my49packard wrote:

JDelauter wrote:

RV particulars:
Driveline Cummins 275 Allison 6-spd
Miles: 37000
Year:1999 Coachmen Sportscoach
Break Down Description: Driving west on I-10, 150 miles from Houston. Engine overheating. Coolant level fine. Slowed to 60 m.p.h. and stopped dash a/c. Made it to California to a Cummins dealer. Split exhaust manifold. Turbo shot. Hole in turbo exhaust pipe. Engine side of radiator blocked with gunk because Freightliiner does not install the road exhaust tube to prevent oil blow-by after moving the radiator to the rear of the engine. Total cost to me: $4300 out-of-pocket. Story gets better as I am headed home (Florida). Bottom line: $7300 from me, zero from extended warranty or Cummins.
Symptoms: Overheating
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome


I am 59 and my wife a little younger. We are getting ready to go RV ing full time as soon as we sell our home and get us into an RV. We are looking at a 36 foot Rexhall Rose Air for our first RV.
I am sorry to hear that you had such problems with your RV.
We are new to this forum, it's part of our RV life style research before we get in the RV living world. This is a great site about break downs and solutions to read and learn what possibilities are out there for problems.
Thanks for sharing your breakdown expierence with us. I hope your Rig is running tip top now. Dave P in NC
PS: I hated spelling in school so when you see my mispelled words, oh well, I tried to get it right. Ha Ha. Dave


My wife and I hope to be going RV ing full time as soon as we sell our home and get us into an RV. We are looking at a 36 foot Rexhall Rose Air for our first RV. We also like Gulfstream but found this Rexhall that we love in Florida.
I am sorry to hear that you had such problems with your RV
We are new to this forum, it's part of our RV life style research before we get in the RV living world. This is a great site about break downs and solutions to read and learn what possibilities are out there for problems.
Thanks for sharing your breakdown expierence with us. I hope your Rig is running tip top now. I would hope that a newer rv would not have as many problems as yours and others do. Thats a mighty big expense out of pocket while your on the road.
Your first paid $4300, but by the end of the trip you spent $7300. What was the other $4000. spent on ? Another break down ?
Dave P in NC
PS: I hated spelling in school so when you see my mispelled words, oh well, I tried to get it right. Ha Ha. Dave

* This post was edited 11/13/08 02:36pm by an administrator/moderator *

my49packard

Arden North, Carolina

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Posted: 11/13/08 07:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kjames90755 wrote:

Phred42044 wrote:

2000 HR Endeavor DP 46000 miles.
Cat 300 HP w/ Allison 6 Speed Tranny.
Problem: Driving along and engine was losing power. Would idle and sometimes get up to full power but would ultimately "chug chug" down the road. Finally made it to a rest stop and got some family to come help me. Chugged it to the nearest diesel mechanic who immediately diagnosed the problem as a fuel separator (filter?). Changed separator and the thing ran like a champ. The mechanic said it is good practice to change the fuel separator once a year under normal driving conditions as diesel fuel is mighty nasty stuff. He also mentioned that when taking off the old filter there was visible trash in and around the filter. I got off luck with a $20 filter and $75 in labor.


The fuel separator is actually a filter to separate water from the diesel oil fuel...when they get full, the water has to be released, and the filter changed--most engines mfrs. recommend doing this whenever you have an oil change at a minimum, whether it needs it or not--you don't want water in a diesel engine...

You would think the people who change your oil would automatically change the fuel separator. I am glad I read this post. Thanks for the tip. Dave P.

my49packard

Arden North, Carolina

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Posted: 11/13/08 08:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

campingshadow wrote:

RV particulars: 2002 Georgie Boy Cruise Master
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): W22 w/ Alison 8.1
Miles: 8,000
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Key will not turn in ignition, unable to shift gears while parked
Symptoms: Cannot turn key - cannot move vehicle
Effect: Total lock up of steering wheel and ignition
Cause: loose fuse
Outcome: After being towed 200 miles, fuse was reseated and all worked fine after that.

I pulled into a gas station and turned off the engine to fill the tank with gas. When I went to restart the engine, the key would not move. The gearshift lever was locked solid. The steering wheel was locked solid. Was under Warranty by Workhorse so called for repairs. They towed me 200 miles (back from where I had come from) to nearest W repair facility. Spent the night at the repair facility and next morning repairman came out and checked fuses under the hood AND under the dash by left foot. One fuse was loose (in box by foot). Pushed it in and everything worked perfectly. Resumed trip with no problems.
Very expensive fuse....tow bill alone was $1500....paid by Workhorse.

Shadow

Wow what a crazy expense for a loose fuse. Your lucky Workhorse paid the bill. Lesson I learned here is that I should know the different kind of fuses that are used on my rig and carry extra ones. I also learned that you could not turn the ignition key if the fuse was blown. I never knew there was an electricial connection for the ignition key to work. Dave P.

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