IIAFFI
Marina del Rey, CA
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Joined: 01/28/2005
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Thursday, April 14, 2005 I took my '95 Bounder to our mechanic and asked him to change all the belts on the motor (Chev 454) "I am headed to Vegas thru the desert next week and don't want any surprises". Done.
April 17, 2005 while driving to Vegas from Los Angeles on I15 at Yermo, no power steering, no alternator voltage, etc) pulled off the freeway and (SURPRISE!) found the alternator belt broken. $391 to tow it to Barstow, $120 to replace the belt and a seven hour delay in my trip to Las Vegas -- it was Sunday afernoon and I figure I was lucky to get it fixed even if it did take 7 hours.
I'm contemplating doing NO PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE FROM NOW ON.
"I Do Not Intend To TipToe Through Life
Only To Arrive Safely At My Death"
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Billdh435
Holland, Michigan, USA
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Joined: 10/31/2000
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I guess the old saying was true in this case; if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Bill and Betty
2000 Class C Coachmen Leprechaun Ford Chassis Triton V10
2007 Saturn Aura Toad
and our 14 year old Dachshund named Lucky
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buchrob
Stanstead QC
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Joined: 10/10/2002
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RV particulars: Safari 38 foot 1996
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cat 3126B / Allison 6
Miles: 61800
Year: 1996
Break Down Description: High-pressure injector pump blew an oil system O-ring.
Symptoms: Engine stopped dead by control computer after spraying 19 qts of oil out the back radiator over a leisurely few hours.
Effect: Dead in the water, but no major damage.
Cause: A 29-cent piece of round rubber went bad, causing $3200 worth of expensive diagnostic and preventative work.
Outcome: Back in service, but now paranoid about oil and other fluid levels.
'99 Glendale Royal Expedition 24' Class C
2003 Subaru WRX wagon as toad.
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metalmangler
WV, U.S.A.
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Joined: 06/19/2004
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IIAFFI wrote:Thursday, April 14, 2005 I took my '95 Bounder to our mechanic and asked him to change all the belts on the motor (Chev 454) "I am headed to Vegas thru the desert next week and don't want any surprises". Done.
April 17, 2005 while driving to Vegas from Los Angeles on I15 at Yermo, no power steering, no alternator voltage, etc) pulled off the freeway and (SURPRISE!) found the alternator belt broken. $391 to tow it to Barstow, $120 to replace the belt and a seven hour delay in my trip to Las Vegas -- it was Sunday afernoon and I figure I was lucky to get it fixed even if it did take 7 hours.
I'm contemplating doing NO PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE FROM NOW ON.
I noticed you've already been told "if it ain't broke--don't fix it." I respectfully beg to differ. To my untrained ear this sounds more like a case of "you get what you INspect--not what you EXpect."
I have read it opined here (by many) that doing the belts on a 454 in a MH isn't an entry-level job. That may be. But, it's obviously a job there's a way to do *right* and several ways to do wrong (while taking somebody's money for it anyway). Might it pay you to acquire the proper tools and educate yourself how to do this one right, yourself? I wish you success in straightening it out--tools in hand or otherwise.
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Fishreed
Burton, Michigan USA
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Joined: 09/26/2004
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:For everyone with a Dodge gasoline, especially older models:
Carry a spare ballast resistor. Most are rectangular white ceramic, roughly 1" wide and 4" to 5" long, with two electrical connectors and a single mounting screw. Unlike voltage regulators and starter relays, ballast resistors are not grounded and may be mounted on nonconducting material such as plastic.
The ballast resistor reduces voltage to the coil, thereby increasing sparkplug life. The starting circuit bypasses the ballast resistor, resulting in a hotter spark when starting.
Symptoms of a bad ballast resistor: Your vehicle fires while you hold the key in the start position (because of the bypass) and dies as soon as you let go of the key (because in the run position, current is supplied to the coil through the ballast resistor).
I haven't bought one in a while but I seem to recall that my spares were less than $20.
As an emergency fix, you can connect the two electrical leads together but doing so will shorten the life of your sparkplugs and other ignition components.
I first encountered this problem on my '77 Dodge B200 van, purchased new and well maintained. My 1970 Explorer motorhome, on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis, also has a ballast resistor but hasn't needed a new one yet.
The bad ballast resistor kept my van from going anywhere and frustrated me because I couldn't figure out what was wrong. (I'm a fairly good mechanic with extensive knowledge of the electrical systems in older vehicles - I can draw most of the typical wiring diagrams from memory.) A friend suggested I check the ballast resistor, saving me the expense of a tow. (I bought him a case of his favorite beer in thanks.)
I've heard of enough similar experiences from other people to convince me to always carry a spare. I haven't heard of any going out while the vehicle is moving although I imagine it's possible. All of the cases I've heard of showed up while trying to start the vehicle, leading me to believe a current spike during shutdown or starting cause the ballast resistor to fail.
Hope this helps someone.
Those new platinium plugs can take a lot of juice. Have you tried a new set of Bosch's plus 4 platiniums?
TravelMaster 1986 23ft, Chevy G30 5.7 TH400 Tranny. 350M V-8 295hp and 360 ft lbs torque, Mobil One Synthetic, Tru-Cool Tranny(4490) and Engine Coolers (M7B), Bilsteins shocks on the front. Monroe 555 HDs on the rear.
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CA Traveler
The Western States
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Joined: 01/03/2004
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RV particulars: Holiday Rambler Endeavor
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 330 Cummins 04 Pegagus Engine, Allison 3000
Miles: 12,000
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Lost all power on a downgrade, black smoke pouring out of exhaust. Idle OK. Pulled over to side and limped 2 miles to rest stop. Decided it was the Pacbrake and wired the air cylinder open. After this I learned that I could just turn off the Pacbrake and proceed.
Symptoms: Power loss and black smoke
Effect: Safety issue as the first time it happened in heavy Interstate traffic with almost no shoulder.
Cause: The cause is the Pacbrake, either the physical Pacbrake itself or the electronics that controls the Pacbrake or possibly the air solenoid (Pacbrake said this was unlikely).
Outcome: Intermittent problem that Cummins could not find (just tested the Pacbrake). It failed 3 more times in the next 600 miles. Then I added temporary wiring and a voltmeter to isolate to an electronic failure or the air solenoid/Pacbrake and it has not failed in the last 500 miles since adding the voltmeter. Incidentally this is not a Cummins part or warranty item. Monaco installed this part with the full cooperation and agreement of Cummins and Allison but it is a Monaco warranty item.
I also learned that the Cummins Medford, OR shop is not trained to test the Pacbrake. They failed to do a major but very easy test, namely disconnect the air cylinder and physically move the butterfly valve to check for binding. They also billed Monaco for almost 3 hours for a 15 minute test. OK, I'd give them a hour as I repeated all of their tests in under a hour at home.
* This post was
edited 04/29/05 10:57am by CA Traveler *
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Bob
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mrwebman
Southeast US
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Joined: 03/28/2005
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RV particulars: Gulf Stream Tourmaster
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 300HP Cummins, Allison MD3060
Chassis: Spartan
Miles: 49,000
Year: 1993
Break Down Description: Allison electronic shifter control went blank and the engine would not restart after being shut off.
Symptoms: Self-shifted into neutral when going down the road then the shifter's digital display went blank
Effect: Stranded on the side of Interstate 95 in extremely heavy traffic causing $950 tow job and parts replacement that extended warranty company would NOT pay for.
Cause: The transmission Electronic Control Unit (ECU) became intermittent. It was mostly blank but would occasionally flash. The ECU is powered by dedicated positive and negative wires all the way back to the battery. Those wires were checked, batteries were changed (long shot), the ignition switch was changed (another long shot), the two fuses in the Vehicle Interface Module (VIM) were checked.
I found a place on the internet called TKT Sales and called them. The owner, Ted Keating, was extremely helpful - walking me through checks on the ECU with my voltmeter. Because battery voltage and ignition voltage were present right at the ECU but yet the ECU was blank, I ordered a used ECU from him and it fixed the problem. It cost me $900 versus the $2500 plus $500 programming fee that a local shop wanted for a new one.
If you have an Allison transmission be sure to write this info down now in case you need them beside the road somewhere like I did. His e-mail address is [email protected] or you can contact him through his website at http://tktsales.com. Tel: (267)716-7332.
And by the way, I have nothing to do with TKT Sale except being a happy customer!
Please note that if you have extended warranty coverage through Interstate StarRV, then you basically have no coverage. They say they would cover my transmission but they will not cover the ECU. They cover the wiring harness but not the ECU. Their contract is worded such that there's probably no way they'll have to pay me for anything.
I also learned something else. If you have a Class A diesel pusher and you have a chassis problem it's almost impossible to get assistance in many places throughout the country. Those RV service centers that you see everywhere will NOT be able to help you - they work on toilets and window shades, etc. And, even if you have an extended warranty, you had better keep about $5,000 or more on reserve for emergency repairs! Our last trip cost us a little over $3700 in repairs, parts, and towing expenses alone!
Cheers,
Dennis
* This post was
edited 05/04/05 12:28pm by mrwebman *
'93 Gulf Stream Tourmaster
Jeep Overland toad
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gullbreezer
Gulf Breeze, FL. 32561
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Joined: 04/07/2004
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to FredC. What Rv do you put those 235/80 tires on? Do you still carry a spare, and what do you cover the spare with? Mine has traveled about 4,000 miles hanging from the frame rails, just behind the fuel tank and in front of the rear axle. It looks like new, and in fact, is.
Winnebago View on Sprinter 3500 chassis. No toad. Now up to two Standard Poodles who sit in the front seats when we are parked...It's alright, they both have licences.
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GotTheBug
Moore, OK
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Joined: 05/19/2005
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1994 Coachman Santara
190 Cummins
Hard to start.
Chassis battery's runs down.
Outcome: Replace battery's (less than a year old, Interstate batterys, would not hold a charge.)
Outcome: secondary fuel filter ( the small one) is hard to get to, who ever put it on must have pinched the gasket and was leaking.
Just bought this unit
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metalmangler
WV, U.S.A.
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Joined: 06/19/2004
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Quote:"...Chassis battery's runs down.
Outcome: Replace battery's (less than a year old, Interstate batterys, would not hold a charge.)"
Batteries less than a year old not holding a charge? That's a symptom, not a cause, even if it caused something else in turn. You'll be doing this in about a year (or less) again, unless you can isolate & correct what causes it.
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