bkenobi
98101
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Joined: 06/16/2016
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I've had my Kodiak 201QB for almost 2 years and used it a handful of times primarily in warmer to moderate weather. Last winter I didn't think about the water (meaning I drained and blew out the lines to winterize) because it really didn't get that cold and I didn't use it anyway. This year I have some hopes of using the TT in weather that could get close to freezing in the lows. I'm the second owner so I don't know how it was configured from the factory/dealer, I just know it has the sticker with a snowflake and blue thermometer on it.
That said, I've been working on removing an unwanted guest and his friends that got into the cabinets. I noticed that the factory didn't seal the area around the black/gray dump pipes nor did they seal a seam under the fresh tank. I sealed those up with a combination of underbelly tape and spray foam. I also found 3 of 4 holes in the front facing beam behind the LP tanks were left open (a 1" and the two 2" round holes). I made a cap with my 3D printer for each so those are good. I also found 2 smaller gaps by the rear beam at the floor level that I sealed with spray foam.
All that to say, the basement is really not close to sealed (at least not from the factory) and it has easy access to the cabinets for air flow from outside especially when at highway speeds. Maybe I should thank Mr. Mouse for opening my eyes to the gaping holes!
With or without those holes, there is really no insulation on the bottom of the black tank which pushes the corrugated plastic down. I'm not sure about the gray tank but assume it's similar. The fresh tank has a small air gap but it's still under the floor with no insulation. That all says to me that the 4 season capability is a very dubious claim unless the TT is only living in Florida or additional measures are taken (tank heaters, basement air flow fans, etc).
Does anyone with a similarly constructed trailer have any real world advise on either how cold it can safely be used and/or recommendations for what to do to improve it's "cold weather" performance to make it more realistic to use outside of summer in the south? I'm not looking for arctic expeditions, just hoping to find out if the recommendation to not use it with water if it's below 32°F (what the Kodiak/Dutchman CSR recommended when I called yesterday). I'm from the NW so it doesn't stay below 32°F often (usually 1-2 weeks a couple times a year). But, if I take it to the other side of the mountains for boondocking I would need water and the pass can easily be in the 20's or colder for a high temperature.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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Hi,
My 1987 Citation Supreme class C had a heated basement.
My current rv does have enclosed waste tanks--but I added a 110 volt outlet and a 600 watt "car warmer". I have it on a mechanical thermostat and it works well. I power it from the inverter.
I've done lots of other winter modifications too.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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nickthehunter
Midwest
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Joined: 07/18/2005
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Realistically, you could use to lows of about 30*F. Beyond that it’s probably not going to be suitable (as in to cold to be comfortable over and above frozen water lines, pump, etc).
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bkenobi
98101
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Joined: 06/16/2016
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I used it a few weeks ago and the temps got down to the low 30s. I was surprised how much cooler it felt than the NL TC I used to have. The heater also runs a lot longer at night. Makes sense, but both have fiberglass shells with thick XPS in the walls so was expecting a little better. This one has insulated floors while the NL TC relied on the bed of the truck to insulate and did have a heated basement of sorts.
I did notice the bathroom was frigid and now I know that's because there's a 11x11" hole under the thin plastic shower shell to the uninsulated basement that had multiple open holes to outside air. Brilliant design!
I was initially thinking I should seal the hole under the shower. Now I'm thinking it might be better to put a fan somewhere that blows conditioned air down there to help heat it. I could add a separate heater with a thermostat but would be better to also have a fan to move the air I'd think. Wouldn't take much really. Farmers used a 60 watt light bulb in pump houses even in cold areas to prevent the pump from freezing up.
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TXiceman
Bryan, TX
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Joined: 11/17/2000
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Mostly All Season or Four-Season are stickers and that is it. Maybe heated tanks are included. A true Four-season trailer is a different animal and has dual pane windows, heated basement, heavier insulation, radiant heat barrier and they a lot more dollars and a lot more weight. To get into Four Season units, go look at Arctic Fox, DRV, New Horizon, Riverstone, etc. These are north of $200,000 and some $300,000 MSRP.
Ken
Amateur Radio Operator.
2023 Cougar 22MLS, toted with a 2022, F150, 3.5L EcoBoost, Crewcab, Max Tow, FORMER Full Time RVer. Travel with a standard schnauzer and a Timneh African Gray parrot
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bkenobi
98101
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Joined: 06/16/2016
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I'm surprised you listed Arctic Fox as a premium brand. Maybe they have a premium line and a standard line, but I knew someone that had a AF TC (811 as I recall) that they had freeze up and all the water lines cracked. While he was working on it, I looked at it's construction and...wasn't impressed. My NL TC was made much MUCH better and it also claimed 4 seasons. I used that in colder weather and the only thing required was keeping the heat on to some degree and the furnace fan running (I actually used an oil heater and wired a switch on the furnace fan to circulate). I know TC and TT are not the same construction, but I just assumed they wouldn't do completely stupid things in construction of a "4 season" unit. Live and learn...
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bkenobi
98101
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Joined: 06/16/2016
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I never really worried about the temperature in the NL TC even when it was cold so long as I was running the heat at some point during the day. I suppose that could have caused issues, but a couple years ago I drove across Montana with temperatures never leaving the 20's and never saw any issues. That had the same type of sticker and no problems. Both are fiberglass shells (though NL is far superior for many reasons). I never had issues despite the bowling ball sized blocks of ice on the jacks!
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/hx7qap6fc........jpg?rlkey=j7mpo06o6zgtu1m7xqwh49mdv&dl=0
* This post was
edited 11/15/23 01:51pm by bkenobi *
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