longislandcamper
Long Island
Senior Member
Joined: 07/18/2011
View Profile
 Offline
|
So when we are camping we always use a splitter on the water spigot at the campground. One line runs to the camper water intake and the other goes to the sewer flush. We only connect the sewer flush to the camper once we actually need it.
So no that we decided to store the camper at our house we are looking for ways to basically have a full hookup site at our house.
We only have one outdoor water spigot and it’s in our backyard about 75’ from the camper. I’d love to have something a little closer and was wondering if I could put a splitter on my backyard spigot. One line would be for general yard stuff and the other would go towards the camper. I was thinking of using and burying pex for the 75’ run to the camper and then having it end on a post with dual spigots or a single spigot with a basic splitter again.
Now if I did this, could I simply leave the original spigot turned on all the time so that I’d have water at the camper whenever I needed it? I mean, it’s not the end of the world to walk 75’ to turn the water on but if I could have it right at the camper that would be awesome.
Also, if I can keep that 75’ line pressurized all the time then should I worry about the actual water quality? The water would be running a few times a year from April through October and we don’t drink it.
|
agesilaus
North Florida
Senior Member
Joined: 05/06/2008
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
I just ran a buried 3/4 inch pvc pipe from the main water line to where the RV is parked. Put a 90 deg fitting in and turn it up out of the ground with a wood post to support it and put a hose bib on it, Run a hose from there
Arctic Fox 25Y Travel Trailer
2018 RAM 2500 6.7L 4WD shortbed
Straightline dual cam hitch
400W Solar with Victron controller
Superbumper
|
navigator2346
Wa and points South
Senior Member
Joined: 03/29/2019
View Profile
Offline
|
i don't see a problem
|
JimR 1
Custer South Dakota
Senior Member
Joined: 08/29/2003
View Profile
|
This may be dumb but, would the PEX be chewed by gophers or a mole?
JimR
|
craig7h
Branson MO area
Senior Member
Joined: 03/23/2002
View Profile
Offline
|
Not being a plumber, but to me your plan sounds like it would work just fine. So it gets really cold in Long island NY if you still live there right. If so you will need some way to drain the water out of your water line, unless you buried it below the frost line.
Itasca Meridian SE 36g
Road Master Tow Dolly
|
|
|
wa8yxm
Davison Michigan (East of Flint)
Senior Member
Joined: 07/04/2006
View Profile
Offline
|
Consider running a line from inside the house. Be sure to bury it deep enough if you get low temps (most of the USA does) to prevent freezing.. and either put a frostproof hydrant at the RV end or clear the line in the winter time (Drain back valve inside and blow it out) I like the frostproof option best.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times
|
JRscooby
Indepmo
Senior Member
Joined: 06/10/2019
View Profile
Offline
|
I didn't look but freezing can be issue in most of the country.
Now I'm not a plumber, but have installed a few frost-proof hydrants, and replaced some where people did not use them right.
If I'm reading the OP right, this is a near-perfect case of attempted murder of the hydrant.
The hydrant is designed to be set with the stem in a bed of gravel below frost line. The actual valve is down at bottom of stem. When you shut the water off, the valve stops flow from pipe and opens the upright so it can drain. A hose, or the add-on line is likely to keep the stem of hydrant full of water. Freeze swell and bust.
You say you plan to bury line hydrant to camper, so much of the digging is in the plan. Why not do it right, tee off the line at base of hydrant, and install a 2nd hydrant near the camper? Then if you disconnect the hose when temps drop, all issues will be in camper.
|
schlep1967
Harrisburg, PA
Senior Member
Joined: 12/08/2005
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
What wa8yxm said. Tap into a cold water line closest to the the end of the house the camper is on. You mentioned PEX so assuming you have the tools, buy a self draining hose bib for the install at that end of the house. Unless that end is an unheated garage, then go with running it out underground and a frost proof hydrant. Your original plan of running PEX 75 feet, PEX is not UV protected. You do not want to expose it to sunlight or it will not last very long.
2021 Chevy Silverado LTZ 3500 Diesel
2022 Montana Legacy 3931FB
Pull-Rite Super Glide 4500
|
valhalla360
No paticular place.
Senior Member
Joined: 08/19/2009
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
Pex should be fine, just remember to winterize and mark where the line runs. Alternatively, if you place it deep enough and use a frost valve, you don't need to winterize.
I wouldn't put a garden hose splitter on the tap but add a "T" before the tap. You might put a separate valve just downstream of the "T" so you can depressurize the line if you need to work on it. During installation, the cost would be negligible.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV
|
Cummins12V98
on the road
Senior Member
Joined: 06/03/2012
View Profile
Offline
|
Frost free
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/rAdrjyUl.jpg)
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"
"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600
2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable
2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD
|
|
|
