deltabravo
Spokane, WA
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Other options:
Replace the receiver hitch with one that's 2".
I am running a Torklift Superhitch on my 2009 3500HD.
Get an aftermarket hitch reducer. The ones from GM seem to fit really loose, allowing for a lot of clanking and banging when towing. Even the GM OEM hitches seem to be oversized.
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator
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QCMan
Independent Republic of Horry
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Here is a fairly easy fix. Get a reducer made that is the full length of the receiver sleeve. That is probably the easiest solution as it could probably be ordered from companies that make the standard ones.
Etrailer has a 12" one.
* This post was
edited 10/21/23 06:57am by QCMan *
2020 Keystone Cougar 22RBS, Ram 1500, two Jacks and plenty of time to roam!
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Baja Man
Inland Empire, CA
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I don't like using the sleeve as a long term fix. Not sure a longer sleeve would make much difference.
Changing the hitch out is no easy or cheap task. Talked to CURT....the new GM receivers are part of the bumper system and all connects to frame. Aftermarket bumper brackets would be needed to add an aftermarket hitch.
I could try aftermarket sleeves to see if they fit any tighter.
I could have plates welded on the 2" shank to build it up to fit the 2.5" receiver. That may be the best option for a long term fix.
2023 GMC, 3500HD, Crew Cab, 6.6L Gas/6 Speed Auto, 4X4, Standard Bed; SRW
2011 Outback 250RS - Anniversary Edition
Equal-i-zer 10K
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JBarca
Radnor, Ohio, USA
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Baja Man wrote:RE:
'23 GMC 3500 4X4, Crew Cab standard bed
2.5" Receiver
I finally got around to setting up my travel trailer and Equalizer WD hitch.
Since my new truck has a 2.5" receiver, I purchased an Equalizer brand shank that is 2.5" on receiver end with a 3" drop and 7" rise. It's 12" long. My tailgate hits the electric jack when I attempt to lower tailgate. Tailgate must be taller than my previous 2003 Ford F350, as I was able to lower tailgate with a 12" long shank on that truck. It may also be that the Ford was a 4X2, or a combination of the two.
Can't seem to source a 2.5" shank that is 18" long, in any drop/rise format. I can find 18” length, but only for 2” receivers.
Anyone run into this issue? What did you do?
Were you able to source a 2.5" receiver end that is 18" long? If so, please share.
I considered using the 2.5” to 2” reducer that came with my truck and purchase the 2”x 18” long shank but have heard that the reducers can oblong or egg shape the truck's receiver from the slop and constant movement when towing heavy trailers.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Hi,
This might help as I have two sizes of 2 1/2" shanks that taper down to 2".
First, you are saying a 12" long shank; what on the shank is 12"? The overall length? OR the center distance from the 5/8" pin to the center of the holes the hitch head goes on?
Here is my setup on my 2005 F350.
![[image]](https://live.staticflickr.com/4624/25816290058_147a11ab60_o.jpg)
Here is the Reese 2 1/2" to 2" shank.
![[image]](https://live.staticflickr.com/4759/25816268548_e32fb85e3c_o.jpg)
Reese part number 54976, the entire shank from end to end is 17 1/2". The distance from the 5/8" pin to the center of the WD head holes is 11 1/2".
I also have the 6" drop shank that is 2 1/2" to 2". Reese part number 54977. It also is 11 1/2" from the 5/8" pin to the WD head bolts.
![[image]](https://live.staticflickr.com/4607/24819703897_52dce16f01_o.jpg)
![[image]](https://live.staticflickr.com/4764/38790794495_4dc4a30ba9_o.jpg)
![[image]](https://live.staticflickr.com/4676/38979592364_07c80a15b9_o.jpg)
On my F350, the tailgate does not hit the power tongue jack on either shank. I miss on a Barker 3,500 ball screw power jack and the Atwood 3,500 ball screw jack that is no longer made.
The 2 1/2" adapter to 2". On the Reese system, when that adapter is used, they reduce the allowable tongue weight from 1,700# down to 1,200# max. Yes, the longer 2 1/2" pin is part of the derating.
Will the 11 1/2" 5/8 pin to WD holes help you? Curt makes one, but it is only 8" from the 5/8" pin to WD holes.
Hope this helps
John
* This post was
edited 10/21/23 05:59pm by JBarca *
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)
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Huntindog
Phoenix AZ
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Joined: 04/08/2002
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Baja Man wrote:RE:
'23 GMC 3500 4X4, Crew Cab standard bed
2.5" Receiver
I finally got around to setting up my travel trailer and Equalizer WD hitch.
Since my new truck has a 2.5" receiver, I purchased an Equalizer brand shank that is 2.5" on receiver end with a 3" drop and 7" rise. It's 12" long. My tailgate hits the electric jack when I attempt to lower tailgate. Tailgate must be taller than my previous 2003 Ford F350, as I was able to lower tailgate with a 12" long shank on that truck. It may also be that the Ford was a 4X2, or a combination of the two.
Can't seem to source a 2.5" shank that is 18" long, in any drop/rise format. I can find 18” length, but only for 2” receivers.
Anyone run into this issue? What did you do?
Were you able to source a 2.5" receiver end that is 18" long? If so, please share.
I considered using the 2.5” to 2” reducer that came with my truck and purchase the 2”x 18” long shank but have heard that the reducers can oblong or egg shape the truck's receiver from the slop and constant movement when towing heavy trailers.
Thoughts?
Thanks! I used the Equalizer 18" 2" bar on my 2011 Silverado dually with the 14K Equalizer hitch towing a 34' 11,500# TT for ten years and over 50,000 miles using the reducer. No issues at all. Now what will oblong the hitch hole is using a bent hitch pin, or any worn pin. When the bars are under tension, there is NO slop in the reciever.
The 2" bar can be an advantage in the unlikely event you need to tow it with a different vehicle that has a 2" reciever. Rare, but it comes up here on the forum now and then. On a related note: That 18" Equalizer bar is made of a higher grade of steel and is rated to at least 14K
On edit: I just looked up your TT. It is pretty light. You will have zero issues if you take my advice,as my TT was a quite a bit heavier/longer and it worked great.
* This post was
edited 10/21/23 08:51pm by Huntindog *
Huntindog
100% boondocking
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2020 Silverado HighCountry CC DA 4X4 DRW
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Huntindog
Phoenix AZ
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Joined: 04/08/2002
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Huntindog wrote:Baja Man wrote:RE:
'23 GMC 3500 4X4, Crew Cab standard bed
2.5" Receiver
I finally got around to setting up my travel trailer and Equalizer WD hitch.
Since my new truck has a 2.5" receiver, I purchased an Equalizer brand shank that is 2.5" on receiver end with a 3" drop and 7" rise. It's 12" long. My tailgate hits the electric jack when I attempt to lower tailgate. Tailgate must be taller than my previous 2003 Ford F350, as I was able to lower tailgate with a 12" long shank on that truck. It may also be that the Ford was a 4X2, or a combination of the two.
Can't seem to source a 2.5" shank that is 18" long, in any drop/rise format. I can find 18” length, but only for 2” receivers.
Anyone run into this issue? What did you do?
Were you able to source a 2.5" receiver end that is 18" long? If so, please share.
I considered using the 2.5” to 2” reducer that came with my truck and purchase the 2”x 18” long shank but have heard that the reducers can oblong or egg shape the truck's receiver from the slop and constant movement when towing heavy trailers.
Thoughts?
Thanks! I used the Equalizer 18" 2" bar on my 2011 Silverado dually with the 14K Equalizer hitch towing a 34' 11,500# TT for ten years and over 50,000 miles using the reducer. No issues at all. Now what will oblong the hitch hole is using a bent hitch pin, or any worn pin. When the bars are under tension, there is NO slop in the reciever.
The 2" bar can be an advantage in the unlikely event you need to tow it with a different vehicle that has a 2" reciever. Rare, but it comes up here on the forum now and then. On a related note: That 18" Equalizer bar is made of a higher grade of steel and is rated to at least 14K john, I am pretty sure that he is talking about the EQUALIZER brand components wich is not a standard WD hitch. Your Reese is a standard WD hitch.
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JBarca
Radnor, Ohio, USA
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Joined: 12/16/2004
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Huntindog wrote:john, I am pretty sure that he is talking about the EQUALIZER brand components wich is not a standard WD hitch. Your Reese is a standard WD hitch.
Hi Huntingdog,
Yes, true maybe. I was commenting only about the shank; the Reese shank goes from 2 1/2" down to 2" at the hitchhead. It can be an option as long as the width and hitch head hole spacing work out.
But, if his hitch head uses a washer stack and pin setup for the hitch head tilt, the Reese cast steel shank will not work. The head tilt adjusting pin will fall into the cast slot in the center of the 2" wide portion.
Thanks
John
* This post was
edited 10/22/23 11:01am by JBarca *
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Blazing Zippers
North Idaho
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I've used a 2 inch extended hitch shank with an adaptor to fit a 2.5 hitch on two Ram trucks. We've got maybe 30,000 miles on this set up with no issues.
Our Outdoor RV trailer has a high hitch coupling and also the tailgate wouldn't drop down without hitting the jack---now, it's all good.
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jaycocamprs
Ringgold Georgia
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Joined: 03/28/2004
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Take a 2" shank and weld 2' wide 1/4 thick strips down all 4 sides. It's now 2.5 inches.
2018 Silverado 3500 DRW
2011 Montana Mountaineer 285RLD
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whjco
Lexington, KY
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Grit dog wrote:Reducer sleeve will be a long term bad idea, but whatever. Knock yourself out.
How so? My 2015 Ram 2500 came with a reducer sleeve and I use two different 2" weight distribution inserts on a fairly regular basis. I now have 135,000 miles on the truck and have never had any issues.
Bill J., Lexington, KY
Bill J., Lexington, KY
2006 Starcraft 2500RKS 25' Travel Trailer
2015 Ram 2500 Big Horn 6.7 Cummins.
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