Baja Man
Inland Empire, CA
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Joined: 02/20/2005
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RE:
'23 GMC 3500 4X4, Crew Cab standard bed
2.5" Receiver
I finally got around to setting up my travel trailer and Equalizer WD hitch.
Since my new truck has a 2.5" receiver, I purchased an Equalizer brand shank that is 2.5" on receiver end with a 3" drop and 7" rise. It's 12" long. My tailgate hits the electric jack when I attempt to lower tailgate. Tailgate must be taller than my previous 2003 Ford F350, as I was able to lower tailgate with a 12" long shank on that truck. It may also be that the Ford was a 4X2, or a combination of the two.
Can't seem to source a 2.5" shank that is 18" long, in any drop/rise format. I can find 18” length, but only for 2” receivers.
Anyone run into this issue? What did you do?
Were you able to source a 2.5" receiver end that is 18" long? If so, please share.
I considered using the 2.5” to 2” reducer that came with my truck and purchase the 2”x 18” long shank but have heard that the reducers can oblong or egg shape the truck's receiver from the slop and constant movement when towing heavy trailers.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
2023 GMC, 3500HD, Crew Cab, 6.6L Gas/6 Speed Auto, 4X4, Standard Bed; SRW
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JRscooby
Indepmo
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What part of jack does gate hit? Can you rotate the jack, gain the needed clearance?
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ssthrd
Vancouver Island
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I turned the jack head to gain an inch or so of clearance. I don't know how much more room you need, but that worked for me. Can't remember if I turned it 90* or 180*, but I do remember that only one position would work.
I probably don't have to mention this, but safety first------
If you do this, make sure that you block the trailer tongue before unbolting the head. So after blocking the wheels, raise the trailer with the jack, support the tongue with blocking, then retract the jack to free it.
If you have a metal fabricator nearby, maybe you can have one made.
* This post was
edited 10/20/23 08:37am by ssthrd *
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Baja man. I’ve spent a bit of time trying to source extended shank hitches or short hitch extensions for 2.5” receivers. All to no avail. They virtually or realistically don’t exist that I’ve found. Also less common to find that type of hardware for 2” hitches than it used to be.
Same issue almost. Also couldn’t lower the tailgate with our TH hooked up. But worse, the hitch shank (non wd) was so short the trailer would hit the truck in normal sharp turns with the first (nice aluminum) stinger I bought. I found a Reese or something that had the pin about 1.5” further back and dropped $300 on a second stinger to just barely be able to turn the trailer.
I’m confident your wd stinger is a bit longer so you basically have the best you can do with readily available resources.
And correct. Resist the urge to use the reducer sleeve for the reason you mentioned. It’s real and it happens.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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ssthrd wrote:I turned the jack head to gain an inch or so of clearance. I don't know how much more room you need, but that worked for me. Can't remember if I turned it 90* or 180*, but I do remember that only one position would work.
I probably don't have to mention this, but safety first------
If you do this, make sure that you block the trailer tongue before unbolting the head. So after blocking the wheels, raise the trailer with the jack, support the tongue with blocking, then retract the jack to free it.
If you have a metal fabricator nearby, maybe you can have one made.
I’ve considered making a short hitch extension. Don’t have a trailer that needs it currently, but it would be handy, regardless.
Have to be a backwoods fab shop though to make one for a customer. That whole liability thing….
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QCMan
Independent Republic of Horry
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They have no liability when it is made to your specs. Used to have a machine shop and that was part of legal 101.
2020 Keystone Cougar 22RBS, Ram 1500, two Jacks and plenty of time to roam!
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Baja Man
Inland Empire, CA
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As Grit Dog mentioned, the size I am looking for is not manufactured by any of the larger Hitch companies. I called Curt, Equalizer, reese, Blue Ox, and BulletProof. The 2"x18" is made. Manufacturers stated the sleeve is the option for those wanting to use the 2"x18" in a 2.5" receiver.
I did mention to BulletProof about making one...they said they have received calls about a longer one, but no immediate plans to make an 18" one.
Unless there's an option that is doable for me (not making my own...btw...wonder what size welder would be needed to penetrate 2" sold steel?), it looks like I'll go with a 2" and use the sleeve/reducer that came with my truck. I'm going to add a hitch clamp to reduce any play/slop from the use of the adapter.
Thanks for the input!
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ssthrd
Vancouver Island
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Joined: 03/23/2016
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Grit dog wrote:ssthrd wrote:I turned the jack head to gain an inch or so of clearance. I don't know how much more room you need, but that worked for me. Can't remember if I turned it 90* or 180*, but I do remember that only one position would work.
I probably don't have to mention this, but safety first------
If you do this, make sure that you block the trailer tongue before unbolting the head. So after blocking the wheels, raise the trailer with the jack, support the tongue with blocking, then retract the jack to free it.
If you have a metal fabricator nearby, maybe you can have one made.
I’ve considered making a short hitch extension. Don’t have a trailer that needs it currently, but it would be handy, regardless.
Have to be a backwoods fab shop though to make one for a customer. That whole liability thing….
I hear ya. Tough to get things done sometimes these days.
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deltabravo
Spokane, WA
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I had the same problem. In my case, the jack is actually manufactured in such a way that the power head can be rotated 90 degrees.
Not all jacks have that feature though, and in some cases that won't even get enough clearance.
Rotating the Power Jack Head so I can use my tailgate
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Reducer sleeve will be a long term bad idea, but whatever. Knock yourself out.
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