Rhalium
Tri-Cities,WA
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Joined: 09/27/2016
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Thanks all for the tips and advice. It sounds like this water heater element project is going to be at least more than an hour job? I have an appointment at a local rv place to get this fixed here in a few days. So I might just end up letting them do this job, especially since I don't know what I'm doing and I don't want to make a mess of water down there in all those tight places.
I still need to take a volt meter to this thing and see if I am getting any volts.
Also someone here said to unscrew the control panel where all the switches are (for the slide-outs, etc) I don't know if I'd wanna do that cause there is a lot of delicate components behind there.
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Rhalium
Tri-Cities,WA
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Joined: 09/27/2016
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dougrainer wrote:OK, BOTH inside switches are 12 volt. NONE is 120 volt. Behind that rear black box is the 12 volt activated relay that turns the Black wire of the 120 wires ON to the 120 element. The YELLOW wire on the outside at the Ignition control module is what is HOT (12 volt) from the 120 red lighted switch in the RV. Inside that black cover are 3 parts.
1. 120 element
2. 120 12 volt activated relay
3. 120 volt water tstat.
The element comes out from behind and is about 12 inches long. Doug
PS. That yellow wire is butt connected to a red going into the black box
Ok I see what you are talking about now. the yellow wire on the outside of the hot water heater tank (viewing from inside the motorhome, underneath the kitchen sink) the yellow wire goes into the red wire.
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Rhalium
Tri-Cities,WA
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Joined: 09/27/2016
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dougrainer wrote:Last, you may have a problem removing the 120 element. It looks like the shelf behind the Water Heater is slightly higher than the back of the water Heater. IF that is the case, you will have to remove all the mount screws on the outside to lift the Water Heater up a few inches to get the 120 element out. Doug
Yeah, actually was watching a YouTube video about that today. The guy said he made a watery mess in all those tight spaces.
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Rhalium
Tri-Cities,WA
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Joined: 09/27/2016
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Got it fixed. It was a bad water heater element and bad 12 volt relay. Want to say more but this site says improper formatting, whatever that means.
Update: figured it out, it was me putting brackets for use as parentheses. here's what I meant to post.
All-right everyone, the rv repair shop said 100% it was a bad Atwood Water Heayer Electric Element and a bad 12 volt relay. He said something about the switch on the control panel, I think he had to do something to it. Maybe turn it upside-down? He said that because there was no water in the tank, then with the switch apparently being in the opposite position in the "off" position with the faint red glowing light that that may have been what was causing the element inside the water heater tank to burn out. Then again, because this is motorhome is new-to-me and has had what seems like more than a few owners, then it's likely that someone else in the ownership line before me might have burned up the water heater element.
* This post was
edited 11/10/23 11:37pm by Rhalium *
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ScottG
Bothell Wa.
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Joined: 02/25/2005
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Rhalium wrote:Got it fixed. It was a bad water heater element and bad 12 volt relay. Want to say more but this site says improper formatting, whatever that means.
It means this site will never, ever fix that problem ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
Glad you got it fixed!
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Rhalium
Tri-Cities,WA
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Joined: 09/27/2016
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ScottG wrote:Rhalium wrote:Got it fixed. It was a bad water heater element and bad 12 volt relay. Want to say more but this site says improper formatting, whatever that means.
It means this site will never, ever fix that problem
Glad you got it fixed!
It actually work a bit too well. Just ran the faucet on cold water for a bit and the water that came out was on the warm side. After i let the water run for a bit it cooled down to normal cold/cool water temp. This has me wondering if it's the powerful 1440 watt heater element that they installed?
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wa8yxm
Davison Michigan (East of Flint)
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Joined: 07/04/2006
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dougrainer wrote:That is an Atwood. The Tstat and electric element are behind that black plastic box. Odds are from how old the W/H is, the element has burned out. Doug
Atwood the T-Stat is outside comprtment and is the same T-Stat as the propane side.. Same for the ECO It's surburan that uses two pair of T_Stats.
The faint light when siwtched off indicates either a mis-wired switch or a bad control board (The black thing upper right outside) or other wiring issue I'd rank the suspects in that order.
On the switch there are 3 contacts. HOT-Switched-Ground
HOT will have 12 volts to any solid ground. Does even if disconnected
Ground will be the SAME COLOR as on the propane switch. Likely either black or white .... And switched. is the one remaining
Look at the propane switch connections.. Hot and ground are the same on both and should be the same color wire.. The "Switched" lead will be.. the remaining wire. and likely different color depending on Gas or Propane.
Might also be a bad switch.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times
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