davehultin
Fargo, ND 58104
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Joined: 01/15/2005
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I've been trying to find a replacement window for our trailer with very limited luck. My preference is to be able to find an exact replacement so I can use the same screw holes, but a "close enough" replacement is OK too. I found a label hiding under the valance, here are all the different codes on the label:
B50199
2438721
10/09/17 RING-2
8505-2; 30.0x22.0; BLK
RPO QTY 60
From my searching it appears the 8505-2 code is what gets me closest to a match, but the dimensions, 30.0x22.0, would be pretty important too (of course!).
I've found a number of exit windows, but I don't need an exit window. I'd prefer something that would give me a little more control over how much the window is open (or not open). The only non-exit window I've found so far is this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/266295582241
It would work, I guess, but the latch mechanism seems kinda hokey to me. (You can see it in the second photo, near the top on the edges.)
Any ideas on where to get an exact replacement, or a pretty darned close replacement?
Dave Hultin
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2019 Ford Expedition Max, 2018 Gulfstream Cabin Cruiser 28BBS
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JBarca
Radnor, Ohio, USA
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Joined: 12/16/2004
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Lippert bought both the Krino and Hehr window companies. Call their customer service dept; they will make and sell you direct a new window.
A few things about RV windows: You will need these dimensions when you call them as a start.
1. The rough opening in the camper wall. They only use the rough opening. They do not use any other sizing as the flanges, etc., change by the style of the window. You will have to remove your existing clamp ring inside the camper and measure it.
2. You need to measure the total thickness of the wall. Again, back to the rough opening, they make the clamp ring to fit your wall thickness.
3. They want to know if it is a vented window, which means it can open. Would you like the screen to come with it?
4. Color: black seems to be the new thing. The campers I work on are white with all-white frames. Many of the window styles have been discontinued in white.
5. There are also drain holes in the bottom of the frames; the top and bottom are often made differently. Ensure you ask where the drain holes are, as this determines the bottom of the window. It will not be good if you turn a horizontal window vertical to mount in the holes as the drains will not work. And visa-versa do not turn a vertical window horizontally.
6. You will need the radius of the corners of the rough opening. While many newer windows use the same radius, not all are the same.
If you are near Elkhart IN, several RV Surplus places sell new windows. New meaning they bought up overruns etc, the windows have never been mounted. The clamp ring may or may not be with it, or they are for the wrong wall thickness. But, they are cheap, a fraction of the cost. The best is to hunt through their piles and find your own.
If your window is a size Lippert has made before, then the cost can be lower. If your is an odd off size, they can still make it; the cost increases.
Hope this helps
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)
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JBarca
Radnor, Ohio, USA
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davehultin wrote: My preference is to be able to find an exact replacement so I can use the same screw holes, but a "close enough" replacement is OK too.
Now sure what you mean you want the same screw holes to line up. A new window unit comes with no screw holes in it. The clamp ring has holes and they use self-drilling screws to mount the new window. The screw cut the new holes in the window unit as they are installed.
This link to a Lippert (LCI) window you posted has never been mounted. I can see the mounting holes in the window frame have never been installed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/266295582241
Also, normally any "new" window comes with a new clamp ring sized to fit a certain thickness of wall. That eBay listing calls out the trim ring (AKA clamp ring) to fit a 2" wall. Some sellers may not sell the trim ring with the window and your old one may not work with the new window pending brand and style. And, while you can buy the new window, it may be sold with the wrong trim ring to fit your wall. You have to watch out and verify.
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davehultin
Fargo, ND 58104
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Thanks for the good info, it’s SUPER helpful! I ended up ordering the window I mentioned in the link (before the feedback came in because they have a 30 day return policy. Now I have a better idea of what to expect. I’m most unsure about the wall thickness, I’ll have to hunt for a place to measure before I pop the old window out.
>> Now sure what you mean you want the same screw holes to line up.
I thought the window would arrive with predrilled holes and I wanted those holes to line up with the existing screw holes in the wall. But I think you’re saying that I’ll be making my own new holes. If that’s the case then I’ll soon be ready to give it a try.
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JBarca
Radnor, Ohio, USA
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davehultin wrote: I’m most unsure about the wall thickness, I’ll have to hunt for a place to measure before I pop the old window out.
>> Now sure what you mean you want the same screw holes to line up.
I thought the window would arrive with predrilled holes and I wanted those holes to line up with the existing screw holes in the wall. But I think you’re saying that I’ll be making my own new holes. If that’s the case, then I’ll soon be ready to give it a try.
To measure the wall thickness, take off the inside trim ring (clamp ring). The window should be stuck to the outside wall, but old putty tape may be all dried up and the window fall out too. Have a helper make sure it will not fall out.
Once the trim ring is off, then, using a metal scale, slide it down the side of the rough opening and measure the total wall thickness. There is about 1/8" to 1/4" air space around the window where a metal scale that starts at 0" can slide down past the window and touch the outside flange of the window. You may have to account for the old putty tape on the wall.
And yes, you will cut new screw holes in the new window frame using the clamp ring as a hole template.
If your old window has old dried-up putty tape sealing it to the siding, all that old tape has to come off and be cleaned up on both the frame and the siding. I would "not" use putty tape again to seal it. I would recommend using high-quality commercial steel building butyl tape. If you have a supply house nearby that sells products for pole barns or steel buildings, they most likely will have good butyl tape. 1/8" thick x 1" wide by the roll. I use GSSI (brand) MB-10A butyl tape. There are also other good brands. I would not go to the RV store and ask what they use on windows, odds are high they will give you putty tape. A lower-grade formulation of butyl that trims easily, but does not last very long.
Hope this helps
John
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ScottG
Bothell Wa.
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Joined: 02/25/2005
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Unless you're certain it's held in with putty/tape, have someone hold the window from the outside when you remove the inside trim ring. Manufacturers are starting to just use foam rubber as a seal and it doesn't bond the window in like the (good) old putty did.
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mm047
Green Valley, AZ
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Joined: 10/10/2000
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I got a new window for my TT here. https://www.pellandent.com/
They were very helpful when I called in. Trying to go thru their website I found difficult
Mike M.
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee V6
2016 Flagstaff 21FBRS
Equal-I-Zer
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