Dutch_12078
Winters south, summers north
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rhagfo wrote:enblethen wrote:An RV electrical panel like this is best way to go. Wire from your main electrical panel with wire correctly sized for the distance. Number 6 would handle the load.
The breakers in that panel look to be Canadian, not US type.
CHINT breakers are made in China and used pretty much worldwide, including in the US.
CHINT breakers
Dutch
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wa8yxm
Davison Michigan (East of Flint)
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Though I agree with the suggestion to put in a proper multiple outlet RV panel.
If you plan to upgrade I'd recommend at the MINIMUM a 50 amp outlet.
You can use 30 amp breakers (And upgrade later) if you wish that would be (if you know how to change breakers) cheaper than the full 3-outlet panel. but I agree the 3-panel will do find.
I went with a 30 amp outlet fed by a 20 amp breaker for my rig and for home use. it was fine.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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No one can even begin to tell you what you can install without seeing your house’s electrical system and the layout/scenario. From headroom in your main panel to the logistics of getting new wire pulled to the location.
This could be an afternoon 3 beer job or could be difficult or impractical.
But the easy button, assuming the headroom and logistics is good, is just put in a little rv sub panel like you see in the campgrounds.
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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The Amazon box I linked is an example only. It is good to have a variety including a 120-volt outlet for other outside work in area of the rig. Some big box hardware stores have similar boxes.
Bud
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sayoung
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One thing is pretty much a sure thing and that is it's way cheaper now to wire up a 50/30 rv panel than it will be down the road.
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valhalla360
No paticular place.
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Just put in the 50amp lines back to the panel. The cost to run and connect a 50amp vs 30amp cabling is negligible but it sets you up to handle anything.
Then you an choose:
- Just a 50amp outlet and use a dogbone (saves a little money but not much)
- Put in an RV park style pedestal that has 50/30/20amp outlets (all connected up to the same 50amp cabling which is not an issue).
I would lean toward the RV park style pedestal. That way you don't need adapters and if you need to plug in a power tool or something, you can just plug it into it's own outlet rather than running it thru the trailer electrical system first.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Even though I've a 30 amp service I chose to create a "break out" box. That gives me one 30 amp on one leg, and two 20 amp on the other (yes, I know it is not balanced). Each outlet has its own breaker.
I find it most useful for winter camping as it allows me to heat 100% electrically in the cold.
Regards, Don
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Bobbo
Wherever I park
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pianotuna wrote:Even though I've a 30 amp service I chose to create a "break out" box. That gives me one 30 amp on one leg, and two 20 amp on the other (yes, I know it is not balanced). Each outlet has its own breaker.
I find it most useful for winter camping as it allows me to heat 100% electrically in the cold.
I'm confused. A 30 amp RV service only has one leg. It is the 50 amp service that has two legs.
Bobbo and Lin
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wnjj
Cornelius, Oregon
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Bobbo wrote:pianotuna wrote:Even though I've a 30 amp service I chose to create a "break out" box. That gives me one 30 amp on one leg, and two 20 amp on the other (yes, I know it is not balanced). Each outlet has its own breaker.
I find it most useful for winter camping as it allows me to heat 100% electrically in the cold.
I'm confused. A 30 amp RV service only has one leg. It is the 50 amp service that has two legs.
Looks to me like a 240V feeder to a box with a single 30A 120V and a pair of 20A 120V receptacles. Doing this allows you to use your 30A RV to max and at the same time run space heaters or other things on extension cords from the other leg.
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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It would be wiser to install a 120/240 volt four wire circuit using something like 6/3 range cable with ground. Install a panel similar one I posted earlier. In doing so everything is in place. Labor difference is minimal difference. Yes, initial cost of material is higher but if you have to change it later labor cost and materials will cost you more.
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