Campinfan
Washtenaw County, Michigan
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I need to replace my RV battery. It is a 24DC model. I know that does not mean 24 volts DC. I see a 24DC battery I can get but there is also a 27DC that has more MCA (not sure what that means but I am used to CCA--cold cranking amps) So my question is, can I replace it with the bigger battery and if so, is it worth it to get the additional 60 MCA for $4 more? Just not sure if I HAVE to use the same size or is that just the minimum one the manufacturer uses to save a couple bucks.
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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Group 27 has a little more capacity then a Group 24
Battery size depends on what style of camping you do. If just overnighting, a Group 24 will do. Couple of days then a Group 27. Longer periods you may want to switch to two 6-volt golf cart batteries.
It all depends on you on which is best!
Bud
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Buy the biggest battery(s) you can cram in there if you want more capacity. Not difficult to measure your battery compartment and then compare to the published dimensions of different batteries.
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nickthehunter
Midwest
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You can replace with any 12volt battery you want. You should first determine the physical size of the battery and if it fits within the space it will reside in.
MCA = marine cranking amps Clicky
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Campinfan
Washtenaw County, Michigan
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I do not boondock but the battery is used to run my inverter to power my residential fridge when driving. I know the truck supplies the power when driving. I guess if it will fit in the box, I will go a little bigger. and thanks for the MCA definition.
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MFL
Midwest
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![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/qwvWv2Jl.png)
After having many different brands of this size battery, this is the one I'd recommend. Good power, and very long lasting.
Jerry
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Campinfan wrote:I do not boondock but the battery is used to run my inverter to power my residential fridge when driving. I know the truck supplies the power when driving. I guess if it will fit in the box, I will go a little bigger. and thanks for the MCA definition.
Your truck doesn’t directly supply the “power” when driving, and unless you’ve done considerable charging modifications, it supplies only a very low amp charge to your trailer battery if everything works Ike it should.
Not even close to what the inverter pulls off the battery to keep the fridge going in the dead of summer. Maybe winter too.
Now if you only drive a couple/few hours between being plugged into shore power and plugging into shore power again, yes you can continue getting by with a little single battery.
But do/will you ever drive all day long, maybe have a 24hour lapse in shore power? If so your setup even with a bigger battery won’t cut it.
I only mention this because the battery(s) are the biggest part of the equation you mention and if it’s time to get a new battery, it’s the best time to think about whether what you have will continue to work well for what you need.
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RLS7201
Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO
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Marine/RV batteries are compromise batteries. They were developed for marine trolling and engine start. They do not excel at either.
For you application a standard lead cell starting battery is your bet choice.
Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Find it hard to believe that big ole camper only came with one battery. That’s largely useless if the camper is being used for more than a couple hours tops off of shore power.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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RLS7201 wrote:Marine/RV batteries are compromise batteries. They were developed for marine trolling and engine start. They do not excel at either.
For you application a standard lead cell starting battery is your bet choice.
Richard
You’re right about the first part, sort of. They’re actually just fine for starting and will take the short term high amp loads just fine but they’re a compromise for deep cycle/ house battery use like trolling motors and campers because they have more/thinner plates to accommodate the high amp loads.
Second part you’re completely off/backwards. A dedicated starting battery while it will do the same job as a deep cycle, it won’t do it near as long before it’s worn out. That’s why true deep cycles aren’t suitable for high amp starting loads. They have thicker plates that last longer under discharge conditions that a good operating starting / charging system keeps from happening.
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