Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: General RVing Issues: Battery Size (replacing)
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in General RVing Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  General RVing Issues

 > Battery Size (replacing)

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Prev  |  Next
Campinfan

Washtenaw County, Michigan

Senior Member

Joined: 05/18/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 08/25/23 11:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you for all the great info. I did go get a 27 battery but next time I may upgrade to an AGM.
Not sure why my post does not make sense....it is the battery in my trailer that is listed. Maybe the manufacturer just went cheap.


______________________
2016 F 350 FX4 4WD,Lariat, 6.7 Diesel
41' 2018 Sandpiper 369 SAQB
Lovely wife and three children

RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

Senior Member

Joined: 10/26/2002

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/25/23 12:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

RLS7201 wrote:

Marine/RV batteries are compromise batteries. They were developed for marine trolling and engine start. They do not excel at either.
For you application a standard lead cell starting battery is your bet choice.

Richard


You’re right about the first part, sort of. They’re actually just fine for starting and will take the short term high amp loads just fine but they’re a compromise for deep cycle/ house battery use like trolling motors and campers because they have more/thinner plates to accommodate the high amp loads.
Second part you’re completely off/backwards. A dedicated starting battery while it will do the same job as a deep cycle, it won’t do it near as long before it’s worn out. That’s why true deep cycles aren’t suitable for high amp starting loads. They have thicker plates that last longer under discharge conditions that a good operating starting / charging system keeps from happening.


It is my understanding that the OP was looking for a starting battery. Which makes my comments correct.

Richard


95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson


valhalla360

No paticular place.

Senior Member

Joined: 08/19/2009

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 08/25/23 12:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Campinfan wrote:

Thank you for all the great info. I did go get a 27 battery but next time I may upgrade to an AGM.
Not sure why my post does not make sense....it is the battery in my trailer that is listed. Maybe the manufacturer just went cheap.


Why would you bother paying for an AGM? The only advantage is you can flip the trailer and the liquid won't drain out...if you flip your trailer, the battery is the least of your concerns.

If you don't change your use pattern, a basic battery is going to be fine when you need one in 7-10yrs.
If you start boondocking, better to go with a couple 6v golf cart batteries as you get more amp-hr per $.


Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV


Veebyes

Bermuda & Maryland Eastern Shore

Senior Member

Joined: 11/24/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/25/23 10:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There are plenty of good reasons to go to an AGM. The double to triple the service life is only one of them. My first AGM gave me nine years.

In storage the AGM loses very little. My AGM sits, disconnected and untended, November to April and retains enough power to operate landing legs upon reconnection.

Zero maintenance other than annual terminals cleaning.

Yes they cost more. Much more. Given what they are over the 100 plus year old technology of the wet cell the AGM is worth it.

There's a reason why they are used in aviation and marine applications.


Boat: 32' 1996 Albin 32+2, single Cummins 315hp
40+ night per year overnighter

2007 Alpenlite 34RLR
2006 Chevy 3500 LT, CC,LB 6.6L Diesel

Ham Radio: VP9KL, IRLP node 7995

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 05/06/2013

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/27/23 09:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RLS7201 wrote:

Grit dog wrote:

RLS7201 wrote:

Marine/RV batteries are compromise batteries. They were developed for marine trolling and engine start. They do not excel at either.
For you application a standard lead cell starting battery is your bet choice.

Richard


You’re right about the first part, sort of. They’re actually just fine for starting and will take the short term high amp loads just fine but they’re a compromise for deep cycle/ house battery use like trolling motors and campers because they have more/thinner plates to accommodate the high amp loads.
Second part you’re completely off/backwards. A dedicated starting battery while it will do the same job as a deep cycle, it won’t do it near as long before it’s worn out. That’s why true deep cycles aren’t suitable for high amp starting loads. They have thicker plates that last longer under discharge conditions that a good operating starting / charging system keeps from happening.


It is my understanding that the OP was looking for a starting battery. Which makes my comments correct.

Richard


Your understanding was wholly incorrect as the OP has a camper trailer. As listed in his first post.
But regardless, dual purpose “marine” FLA batteries make fine starting batteries, just not great deep cycles in the long run.


2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 05/06/2013

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/27/23 09:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

valhalla360 wrote:

Campinfan wrote:

Thank you for all the great info. I did go get a 27 battery but next time I may upgrade to an AGM.
Not sure why my post does not make sense....it is the battery in my trailer that is listed. Maybe the manufacturer just went cheap.


Why would you bother paying for an AGM? The only advantage is you can flip the trailer and the liquid won't drain out...if you flip your trailer, the battery is the least of your concerns.

If you don't change your use pattern, a basic battery is going to be fine when you need one in 7-10yrs.
If you start boondocking, better to go with a couple 6v golf cart batteries as you get more amp-hr per $.


Except none of this matters. Since the little single battery on the big 5ver will either get overused and drained and cooked very easily or it is literally never used without being backed up by the converter.
There are more important considerations in this thread that are worthy of clarifying or debating than AGM or not.

valhalla360

No paticular place.

Senior Member

Joined: 08/19/2009

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 08/27/23 01:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Veebyes wrote:

There are plenty of good reasons to go to an AGM. The double to triple the service life is only one of them. My first AGM gave me nine years.

In storage the AGM loses very little. My AGM sits, disconnected and untended, November to April and retains enough power to operate landing legs upon reconnection.

Zero maintenance other than annual terminals cleaning.

Yes they cost more. Much more. Given what they are over the 100 plus year old technology of the wet cell the AGM is worth it.

There's a reason why they are used in aviation and marine applications.


Other than checking water, nothing different than standard lead acid. I've not replaced a battery on an RV. Disconnect the cables, clean the terminals and water in the fall. In the spring reconnect and away you go.

The reason they are used in aviation and marine is you can flip them on their side or completely over without spillage. Usually, that's not an issue for most RVs.

So still waiting on a reason to pay soooo much more for AGM.

wa8yxm

Davison Michigan (East of Flint)

Senior Member

Joined: 07/04/2006

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/27/23 03:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Campinfan wrote:

Thank you for all the great info. I did go get a 27 battery but next time I may upgrade to an AGM.
Not sure why my post does not make sense....it is the battery in my trailer that is listed. Maybe the manufacturer just went cheap.


I am not convinced of the advantages of AGM in most cases. IN SOME cases yes. AGM is better than a "Wet" battery but those are extreme.

IF you can expand the battery compartment go with a pair of GC-2

If not LiFePO4 is expensive but may well be worth it. And getting less expensive daily.


Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times


StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

Senior Member

Joined: 07/16/2003

View Profile



Posted: 08/27/23 06:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Veebyes wrote:

There are plenty of good reasons to go to an AGM. The double to triple the service life is only one of them. My first AGM gave me nine years.

In storage the AGM loses very little. My AGM sits, disconnected and untended, November to April and retains enough power to operate landing legs upon reconnection.

Zero maintenance other than annual terminals cleaning.

Yes they cost more. Much more. Given what they are over the 100 plus year old technology of the wet cell the AGM is worth it.

There's a reason why they are used in aviation and marine applications.


The reason they are used in marine, and aviation was they don't spill when the boat rocks or the planes bank. Also, before I retired from the Navy in 2009 we converted a lot of our stuff to Lithium batteries to improve reliability, capacity, and lifespan.

They do last longer compared to a normal starting battery but not when compared to a GC2 so let's throw out some context. The only reason to buy an AGM in an RV, in my opinion, is if you don't want to do maintenance on the batteries as they do protect themselves from low water levels better. To me it just doesn't make sense to get AGM for a RV application as here, the price is double for an equivalent battery.


2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100

StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

Senior Member

Joined: 07/16/2003

View Profile



Posted: 08/27/23 06:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wa8yxm wrote:

of GC-2

If not LiFePO4 is expensive but may well be worth it. And getting less expensive daily.


Far cheaper than equivalent AGM, LiFeP04 is now the cheapest you can go when you take lifespan and usable AH into account. for me I just had to take usable AH into account, and they were cheaper than GC2 batteries

Steve

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  General RVing Issues

 > Battery Size (replacing)
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in General RVing Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2024 CWI, Inc. © 2024 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.