mkirsch
Rochester, NY
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Joined: 04/09/2004
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1. The best way to get there is with a purposely designed system like the Torklift Superhitch and Supertruss extension. You are really not asking for what's best, though. You want a cheap alternative, and as you've seen, there is no such thing. At minimum you will probably need to upgrade to a 2.5" receiver in order to take advantage of the generic 24-34" extension Reese makes. I still have not found that alleged 2" 24-34" extension and nobody has provided a link, so I can only conclude that it was discontinued and NLA...
2. Take the jack off. Install a folding jack farther back on the middle strut.
3. I would be most concerned about the camper jacks hitting the trailer during a sharp backing maneuver. My setup was initially much closer to the trailer using an extended shank only, and you could not make the jacks hit going forward. HOWEVER, you could backing up, and I punched a hole in my trailer in a rain storm trying to back into a friend's driveway. I realized it could hit and I was careful up to that point, but not careful enough apparently.
4. While modifying the trailer tongue is attractive in theory, you have to find someone willing to do it and will stand behind their work. This is not a job for your neighbor Bubba and his $89 Harbor Freight wire welder. You will also need to modify EVERY trailer you tow vs. just having the one extension and being able to tow anything.
Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Joined: 05/06/2013
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You’re pulling a little trailer with a little buggy on it.
Get a hitch extension, plug it in and go tow the trailer.
Why did you start a second thread?
To put to rest all the hand wringing, check this out.
Similar vintage 3/4 ton truck with a shorter short bed, OE 2” receiver, 17” OE rims with 4000lb Toyos on them, WAY heavier camper that overhung further than your camper does on your truck, tailgate on the truck, 18” hitch extension bar, and a MUCH heavier trailer with guaranteed more tongue weight than your estimated 600lbs (which is probably a bit conservative anyway). Made the trip from here to Anchorage in the spring time with 6,969 frost heaves encountered on the Alaska Highway.
No issues then, nor the thousands of more miles with the same setup but different similar sized trailers. Only hauled that trailer once to move a few of our belongings with us to AK.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/KDNCY8kl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/BKilMgml.jpg)
Your
Setup
Is
Fine
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
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3 tons
NV.
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It’s been my experience that with a double axle trailer less of the weight ends up on the tongue…It’s in this regard that (from dreaded learned experience…) there’s no economy in a budget set-up…Reworks are best avoided…
3 tons
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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^Apples to apples yes. But the OP is set on his little trailer and it’s just fine for what he’s doing and his entire setup, so I don’t understand your point since him and a tandem were already a non starter for him.
If you were referring to my post above, I can guarantee you whatever the tongue weight was it was far more than a RZR pointed either direction on a his trailer.
Was my whole point of digging up 10 year old pics. To stop the speculation.
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mkirsch
Rochester, NY
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The other option is something custom built. Before Torklift that was pretty much the only option.
There are prefabricated 2" weld on receiver tubes up to 48" long. To fit your 2x2 receiver you'd need to reduce it down with either some 2x2 square tube or better yet a solid bar. Nice thing about the prefabricated receiver tubes is the receiver end is already cross drilled and reinforced.
This solution involves a whole lot of "that looks about right" engineering, because most people simply have no idea how to go about designing such a thing. It also leaves you hanging in the wind for everything. There is no manufacturer to tell you what your contraption is rated for, or to stand behind it if it fails. You're just guessing that this extension won't fold in half the first time you cross a set of train tracks, or won't launch the trailer into the oncoming lane the first time you swerve slightly on the highway.
It is the solution I took, but I went into it knowing I was using material that was as good or better than what commercially available extensions were made from. There are also no welds on my extension to call into question, as my receiver is 2-1/2" and the receiver tube fits directly into it with no need to weld in a reduction. The only welds are for D-rings which transfer the safety chains from the truck receiver to the trailer. I was also only extending 12" so the forces were greatly reduced.
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3 tons
NV.
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Well, not to dampen your spirits, but as they say on Shark Tank, “Good Luck, I’m Out” ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
3 tons
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Miguel951
San Diego
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Joined: 08/03/2023
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Thank you all for the helpful advice. I really like the Torklift system but honestly more than I care to spend (almost $2K). I'm going to look for a 2.5" hitch with the 24"-36" extension bar and that will be $500-$600
You guys are right, there's no 2" extension bar at 24". What was meant was getting a 16" extension with my standard ball hitch adapter that gave me 24". The only problem there it's only rated at 3500 lbs and 350 TW. but I have seen those 2" extensions that I can customize.
Making my own is still interesting but your right. At my own risk and without any testing or knowing. My real vision was starting with a 2" solid shank in the receiver, going into a 2 1/2" tube (reinforcing with a 2" tube inside of it) and then ending with a 2" drop (or whatever is appropriate) and ball like a standard hitch. Just one piece from the first pin on the hitch and with the chain system similar to the torklift and Reese extension (in a triangle shape) from the outer edges of the hitch to the extension. I feel like it will work and be plety strong but then concerned about the stress it will put on the 2" hitch and how that will also have to be reinforced with gussets and by that point I go back to the 2.5" hitch with the 24-36" extension.
I will still measure tongue weight but think the 2.5" hitch with the 24-36" extension is probably the best bet
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mkirsch
Rochester, NY
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Joined: 04/09/2004
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One of the most important factors is confidence in your rig. If you're not confident in your fabrication skills or confident that you know more than the manufacturers of the accessories, you won't be confident in your rig, and you won't want to drive it.
Lots of folks ignore ratings, do whatever suits their fancy, and get away with it. God bless 'em because sooner or later they're going to need it.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Well, the rvnetters who “think” they know what they’re talking about are doing what they do best and scaring you off of something they “think” is scary, but never done/nor had a bad experience or you know they would relate that story in a heartbeat. And while I’m sure you think you’re just being cautious, you’re taking the bait. Hook line and sinker.
When it was YOU that had this idea to begin with and now even though you’ve demonstrated that it’s reasonable, are getting cold feet.
PS, I drug around a 2 seater RZR900 on the same type of single axle trailer. Behind the same truck and camper pictured above. Can say I never gave it a thought and it pulled like the proverbial “don’t even know it’s back there”.
Your 1000turbo don’t weigh that much more.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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And if you’re worried that an 18” extension plus long stinger or whatever combo you’re at is t quite long enough for jack knife backing up.
You have a little trailer behind a normal size pickup. With a little care and driving skill you’d shouldn’t need to do that maneuver often. And if you get in that odd spot where you need to, carry another extension to slap in there to make the turn. Costs you 5-10 minutes and $50 to make it a non issue for a relatively rare issue.
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