Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Truck Campers: HELP PLEASE... Hitch and extension ?
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 > HELP PLEASE... Hitch and extension ?

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mkirsch

Rochester, NY

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Posted: 08/08/23 06:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Miguel951 wrote:

Just read that someone didn't recommend a weight distribution hitch for an extension. Interesting. Could you explain? I think I see a reason but just looking to be more educated on this. Is it because it could bend or kink the bar?


A WDH is not an anti-gravity device. It uses leverage to perform its function. Basically it is "prying up" on the rear of the truck. Stuck a bar or pipe or any sort of long lever-like instrument into the receiver, get out on the end of it, and lift up. Same idea.

It all goes back to those lessons you should have gotten in 7-8th grade "Physical Science" class about levers and torques. The longer the lever arm, the more force is applied. A hitch extension is very much a longer lever, and it has to be designed for the forces applied by the WDH.

The Curt/Reese 24-35" extension for 2-1/2" receivers is rated for some WDH (6000lbs), and the Torklift products for sure are. Others that may be out there may or may not be. They might hold up, and they might not. At least if you get one that's officially rated, you can be fairly confident that it's going to perform its function. Unrated there will always be a significant doubt in the back of your mind which takes all the fun out of driving.


Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

Bedlam

PNW

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Posted: 08/08/23 06:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I expect the rear of the truck to weigh 2750-3000 lbs unloaded. Your 2003 has the same 9250 lb rated Visteon Sterling 10.5" axle they still use today on the F250, but your brakes are smaller. Your setup is limited by the 7280 lb limit of tires and rims, so you have between 4000-4500 lbs of actual capacity but will be over both RAWR and GVWR door frame stickers.

You still need to put the truck on a scale and measure front axle weight when empty and loaded. This will tell you if the CG of the camper is too far back behind the rear axle. BTW: Both my Artic Fox and current Host are rear heavy if my tanks are empty.


Chevy Sonic 1.8-Honda Passport C70B-Host Mammoth 11.5-Interstate Car Carrier 20-Joyner SandViper 250-Kawasaki Concours ZG1000-Paros 8' flatbed-Pelican Decker DLX 8.75-Ram 5500 HD


Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 08/08/23 09:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You don’t need a wdh or the hassle of additional considerations with that truck, camper and trailer even if you truly will have a 600lb tongue weight. You got newer better wheels that have great capacity tires. The 7200lbs for the wheels IS the limiting factor if you choose to follow it. OE rims are hard to find ratings for but it’s pretty universal they’re thought to be or are rated for 35-3600lbs. And they are very durable at those weights and a bit more. (Think about the OE mfgs liability with their wheels on the millions of HD pickups that get abused and misused regularly. If they were failing every time or any time someone overloaded them a bit, just the negative publicity alone, not even getting to liability cost, would be a death sentence for an OEM. Hence they’re all over designed. Proof? None actual, besides, watching, driving, repairing or being responsible for 100s of HD pickups over the years used in construction by anyone from folks like me to hundreds or thousands of employees who can barely sleep their name (sometimes literally) but are goin to get the job done that day…

Real world personal TC example. Short bed Dodge 2500 on OE 17” alloys and later OE 20” alloys. Real world rear axle weights from the 7200lb range to approaching 8klbs depending on the trailer. 20-30k miles of loaded driving including the Alaska Highway at the upper and of the range and all over AK at the lower end (far worse highways (frost heaves) than most anywhere in the L48) and never an issue with tires or wheels.

Another thing worth considering, idk if you own the trailer you describe or just planning for the smallest trailer that will haul that buggy. But a slightly longer tandem axle basic utility or car hauler trailer will provide you far more latitude in optimizing tongue weight and also stability/durability of the trailer. Trailers are easy to sell/purchase and not a huge difference in total expense if you’re smart and patient.
Added bonus, with any TC, storage space is at a premium. Especially if you’re packing gear, parts and fuel for a hot rod SxS as you are. A bit bigger, lot better, trailer will afford you a bunch of space for not only tongue weight adjustment but also more storage options.
Worth thinking about.


2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Miguel951

San Diego

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Posted: 08/08/23 01:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you everyone, for all the wonderful and helpful feedback. Things are looking up and this sure seems way more plausible now. the camper is on a 6.75' bed for sure. will get the truck weighed and I think I will upgrade to a 2.5" hitch as well if it makes sense. Additional feedback is welcomed.

My apologies for the lack of data at first, crazy how the responses change when you give the right information

3 tons

NV.

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Posted: 08/08/23 01:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Note, that when considering the 18” extension, add to that the length of the inserted ball hitch to arrive at the overall length, thus you may be able to get by with just a 18” extension…

3 tons

Miguel951

San Diego

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Posted: 08/08/23 03:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you for recommendation. I will be sure to include hitch into measurement

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