fj12ryder
Platte City, MO
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Grit dog wrote:fj12ryder wrote:Don't see why not. If it wasn't okay, send them back and get some regular ol' brake pads. Fancy sounding pads just cost more. Unless you're going racing hi zoot brake pads are not really necessary. Just another way to separate you from your money.
Clearly someone who doesn’t understand what they’re talking about. Or happens to like copious amounts of brake dust….
Don’t worry 12V will be along to support you in the “ceramic pads are dumb” comments.
Myself, I prefer equal or better performance, long life and mostly my wheels not looking like I haven’t washed them in a month, 2 days later.
To the OP yes ceramic pads are just fine with stock rotors. Just burnish the rotors good to side in bedding the pads unless you get really good pads like EBC with a bedding compound on them. Even still it is best to scuff the rotors completely. I like ceramic, personally I don't care if the wheels get a little dusty, but spending a lot of money for high zoot stuff, when the basic ceramic will do the job 90% as well, makes no sense to me. I sometimes forget that subtle is wasted on some. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
Howard and Peggy
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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opnspaces wrote:Short answer is yes. It's a brake pad sold for that truck and it will work on your stock rotors.
Yup 10-4, over n out. Next caller please. This is not an actual issue. I promise.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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fj12ryder wrote:Grit dog wrote:fj12ryder wrote:Don't see why not. If it wasn't okay, send them back and get some regular ol' brake pads. Fancy sounding pads just cost more. Unless you're going racing hi zoot brake pads are not really necessary. Just another way to separate you from your money.
Clearly someone who doesn’t understand what they’re talking about. Or happens to like copious amounts of brake dust….
Don’t worry 12V will be along to support you in the “ceramic pads are dumb” comments.
Myself, I prefer equal or better performance, long life and mostly my wheels not looking like I haven’t washed them in a month, 2 days later.
To the OP yes ceramic pads are just fine with stock rotors. Just burnish the rotors good to side in bedding the pads unless you get really good pads like EBC with a bedding compound on them. Even still it is best to scuff the rotors completely. I like ceramic, personally I don't care if the wheels get a little dusty, but spending a lot of money for high zoot stuff, when the basic ceramic will do the job 90% as well, makes no sense to me. I sometimes forget that subtle is wasted on some.
Nope not wasted here. I’m a penny pinching sob myself. What you’re failing to recognize is that these brake pads don’t cost any more (maybe less) than a quality set of heavy duty semi metallic pads. And beings the OPs truck is 9 years old, strong chance they need replaced anyway (or he wouldnt have waited 9 years to get rid of the yummy brake dust on his wheels).
That said I’ve chit canned plenty of perfectly good brake pads for ceramic simply so the wheels don’t look like a dogs breakfast 2 days after washing them. But I like my vehicles to look as nice as they run….obviiisly not everyone’s priority. I spend as much a month in beer n chew as a new set of brake pads. If I couldn’t afford them id deal with the brake dust though.
Sometimes, not often with 2 young men eating out of the fridge, I’ll even commit the sin of throwing away leftovers. But usually not unless I’ve eaten the same thing 2-3 times!
Lol
I’ll assume you spend zero dollars on keeping up or improving the appearance of your vehicles if you think this is such a wasteful expense.
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Turtle n Peeps
California
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Like was said above, yes you can run them on stock rotors.
That being said, I just don't understand this tricked out brake stuff. My truck has 145,000 on it and the brakes were inspected at 115,00 and the mechanic said the brakes looked like brand new. And this is with 40% towing.
Lets be honest here, any stock brakes can override the tire traction many times over. IOW's the limiting factor is tires. Never brakes. Never ever, ever brakes. Not even close.
In fact, the last time I had brake fad was like 35 or 40 years ago and that was on a 69 Chevy pickup with 4 wheel drum brakes towing a trailer with no brakes with 4 brake panic stops in a row. And the truck more than likely had asbestos shoes.
And then you have people that want slotted and drilled rotors. WTH? Do you really want to reduce the thermal load your rotors can absorb?
The ONLY reason, and I do mean ONLY reason for slotted and drilled rotors on race cars is weight reduction. That's it. Weight reduction.
Why on earth do people towing a 7 to 15K trailers need weight reduction?
Anyway, my point is manufactures do millions of dollars of research on brakes and people change up their brakes to something else that they know little to nothing about.
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~
"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"
"The best way to get a bad law repealed is to enforce it strictly."- Abraham Lincoln
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Weight reduction, far secondary. Cooling, for the drill holes and de glazing for the slots. That’s what they’re for.
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StonedPanther
Goshen IN
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Turtle n Peeps wrote: I just don't understand this tricked out brake stuff. My truck has 145,000 on it and the brakes were inspected at 115,00 and the mechanic said the brakes looked like brand new. And this is with 40% towing.
You get 145,000 miles out of the OEM brakes? LOL. Good for you. I bet you also get 35 mpg out of a V8 pickup LOL.
Turtle n Peeps wrote:
The ONLY reason, and I do mean ONLY reason for slotted and drilled rotors on race cars is weight reduction. That's it. Weight reduction.
BS to put it simply.
Turtle n Peeps wrote:
And then you have people that want slotted and drilled rotors. WTH? Do you really want to reduce the thermal load your rotors can absorb?
Yes, exactly the point. You contradict yourself. I thought the only thing they accomplish is "weight reduction"? BTW there is a big difference between "Absorption" and "Dissipation".
Turtle n Peeps wrote: they know little to nothing about.
Well you said it, Obviously.
* This post was
edited 07/29/23 06:33am by StonedPanther *
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StonedPanther
Goshen IN
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valhalla360 wrote: a regular brake job should fix the problem without getting exotic.
There is nothing exotic about Powerstop Z36 kits with drilled and slotted rotors. The Powerstop kit per axle is lower in price than going down to Autovance and buying the "regular" off the shelf generic garbage pads and crapola no name rotors that warp the first time you heat them up.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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StonedPanther wrote:valhalla360 wrote: a regular brake job should fix the problem without getting exotic.
There is nothing exotic about Powerstop Z36 kits with drilled and slotted rotors. The Powerstop kit per axle is lower in price than going down to Autovance and buying the "regular" off the shelf generic garbage pads and crapola no name rotors that warp the first time you heat them up.
You can probably save your breath. Some o these folks are probably thinking disc brakes are new fangled exotic stuff. I mean drum brake shoes are cheap and they stop a vehicle too. Why go past that?
Same folks are rockin flip phones and posting from their desktops prolly too.
I’ve been wanting to upgrade a whole setup to drilled and slotted rotors but I haven’t torched a rotor on anything I own in idk how long. Except the old SRT needed rotors at about 140k miles, years ago. But it was getting sold so I gave the poor car some Chinabomb solid rotors.
And I just love the folks who are openly proud about how they beat the odds with brake component life…probably also the same folks being told repeatedly they’re number 1 by passing motorists as they’re doing 57mph down the freeway and missing traffic signals as they coast to a stop from the start of the off ramp…..
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Turtle n Peeps
California
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StonedPanther wrote:Turtle n Peeps wrote: The ONLY reason, and I do mean ONLY reason for slotted and drilled rotors on race cars is weight reduction. That's it. Weight reduction.
BS to put it simply.
Tell me why it's BS? Lets hear it. I find it strange that you come on here asking a simple question about brakes that you don't know the answer too and then when I give you the answer and more, you act like you have all of this knowledge about brakes. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif "scratchead")
The lighter your rotors are the less heat load the metal can absorb. It's pretty simple really. I work on E450 busses and vans all day long and lets me tell you, I have yet to see a drilled and slotted rotor on any of them yet. The rotors on these busses are HUGE and heavy as hell. They are made that way to adsorb tons of heat without glowing red and boiling the fluid.
Rotors always absorb more heat than they can reject. The less mass you have the less heat load they can absorb. Drilled and slotted rotors have less mass and therefor can't absorb the same amount of heat that solid rotors absorb. Beyond that, slotted and drilled rotors have a bad tendency to crack. Not so bad on a race car because they are inspected after every race. But on a truck that tows an RV, that can be bad news and make for a bad day very quickly.
Oh BTW, no; my truck does not get 35 mpg. It gets 19 solo and 11 towing. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
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StonedPanther
Goshen IN
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Turtle n Peeps wrote:StonedPanther wrote:Turtle n Peeps wrote: The ONLY reason, and I do mean ONLY reason for slotted and drilled rotors on race cars is weight reduction. That's it. Weight reduction.
BS to put it simply.
Tell me why it's BS? Lets hear it. I find it strange that you come on here asking a simple question about brakes that you don't know the answer too and then when I give you the answer and more, you act like you have all of this knowledge about brakes.
You need to read the thread again from the beginning. I did not ask any questions about anything, that was Scootsk. I find it strange that you dispute about 92% of what anyone else posts based on reading through your past posts on what essentially amounts to a dead board locked in 1972. I'm not about to argue with some Knucklehead when others in a thread get it and the knucklehead doesn't. You did not give me an answer about anything as I never asked a question LOL.
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