Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Jc Everest wrote:Ok, I did take to the cat scale and trailer was 6900. I have the axle weights but I'll have to go home to get it. Truck is rated at 12750 like I mentioned whick seems to be more of the 50% range with drunk math. I'm well below axle gawr on both front and back. Total gross weight was 13000
So you’re not into answering questions, so this is a fun guessing game for the participants?
PS for dodge guy if he hit the scales at 6900 on the trailer adoes and it’s a 7500 states dry dry weight from his first post, sounds pretty close to 7k on the axles and whatever ish on the tongue.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
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trailer_newbe
Tucson
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Puma’s are usually pretty heavy. My guess is the trailer is more like 9,000+ loaded and the hitch is probably approaching 1,000 lbs. 1/2 tons love to have glorious tow numbers but in reality they suck. When the trailer weighs at least 3,000 lb more than your truck don’t expect it to feel great.
2018 Jayco White Hawk 28RL
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Jc Everest
Georgia
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Well on the cat scale I'm sure some of that weight was transferred to the truck.
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NamMedevac 70
Reno
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I have a 2014 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 V8 Hemi and I can turn off my truck anti sway option with the push of a button. I have also two older Ram 1500s V8 and a former Ram 2500 V10 4x4 and I can tell you will be most challenged in the high mountains of the Rockies and western USA with that amount and length of trailer.
I do have experience in towing a 28 foot 5000 lb trailer in those mountains and chose to use the 2500 V10 for those chores and safety plus of course an Equalizer WDH. Better safe than sorry. Cheers to the 4 great Rs of life.
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valhalla360
No paticular place.
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Jc Everest wrote:Well on the cat scale I'm sure some of that weight was transferred to the truck.
What were the weights by axle ? And then what was the weight of the truck by itself per axle?
Also was the truck and trailer loaded as if going on a trip?
You are giving us partial info that we can speculate about but much better to give the full data, so we don't have to guess at what it means.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV
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ScottG
Bothell Wa.
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The Rams sway control is for catastrophic events, like the trailer getting out of control. It kicks in and applies the brakes individually as needed to bring it back under control and avoid an accident. It is not for ongoing sway control while driving down the road. If it's kicking in, you have serious issues and they need to be fixed rather than doing anything to the trucks sway control - which would be like shooting the messenger.
Have you adjusted the hitch so the front end of the truck isn't nose high? It really sounds like you have unloaded the front suspension.
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goducks10
There
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Since you're buried in the truck and TT then I would suggest upgrading the coils on the truck. You can get after market stiffer ones that will give the truck more control. Then you need to setup the WDH properly.
Have you used the front fender measurement method? You should return the front to close to 100% of the unloaded height but not over 100%.
Is the TT level?
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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^Buried is the wrong terminology for sure.
No, the OP doesn’t have the ultimate hauler, however that trailer is not only within the rated capacities of his truck, largely or even completely, it’s certainly not anywhere near the limits of the gvwr gcvwr or drivetrain capabilities.
Replacing the city slicker rear coils with some real springs is a great idea if this is a long term hauler for the OP and they’re ok with rough ride empty. (Most people with half tons aren’t primarily loading heavy, but the exact opposite.)
Coils are a relatively easy and inexpensive upgrade that are frankly needed on this model of Rams. But that or bags and good tires will help tremendously and I’d recommend it.
It would be easier if the OP actually provided answers to the other very pertinent questions asked.
Oh and if you want to test the good tire theory, air up the (presumably) stock P/XL rated tires to 60-65psi and take a little run. It’s a good simulation of how much the higher pressure and stiffness of LT D or E tires will help the situation.
If we ever find out enough details to know the whole situation….
* This post was
edited 07/27/23 08:05am by an administrator/moderator *
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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If the OP said “Yep, planning on this truck pulling that camper for years and years, full time or frequently and cross country a bunch.” , an upgrade to a 3/4 ton would at least be somewhat warranted or desireable.
But presuming he’s the typical weekend warrior, he has a great truck for the combination of occasional towing and daily driver duties. As long as the E torque holds together (nothing to do with towing, but I wouldn’t own one due to the added complexity and potential/real failure modes) the engine and trans are right up there with any 3/4 ton gasser save for the Ford 7.3.
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ScottG
Bothell Wa.
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goducks10 wrote:Since you're buried in the truck and TT then I would suggest upgrading the coils on the truck. You can get after market stiffer ones that will give the truck more control. Then you need to setup the WDH properly.
Have you used the front fender measurement method? You should return the front to close to 100% of the unloaded height but not over 100%.
Is the TT level?
All great advice and if it's still a bit squirrely, get some LT tires when the time comes.
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