JRscooby
Indepmo
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Joined: 06/10/2019
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Grit dog wrote:
Regarding the universal 3500lb rating. Pffft. Towed an (estimated) 6500-7klb trailer with no lack of tongue weight from here to Anchorage during mud season, where all the frost heaves were still very much at their max. 18” “3500lb” extension hanging off a factory 2” receiver. Never questioned it and it never gave any problems.
I would be surprised if anybody ever had a failure of the extension itself. After all, to bend a wire you need to hold one side of bend, put force on the other. Any extension will increase the force applied to hitch. If hitch, mounting, and even vehicle, is not designed to absorb that force, something gives.
Now the OP wants to add extra points for looseness, plus a 300+ hammer beating on the hitch and mounting plus do it full time.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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^Theres a couple good solutions but that long arse contraption of a MC rack ain’t one of them. It takes up far too much length to be practical in the scenario of also towing a trailer.
If anyone including the OP took 10 seconds to look at the dimensions of it in the link he posted, they would understand what I’m saying.
Using that thing, next steps would be “I don’t want a huge long hitch extension so maybe lengthening the trailer tongue (of the mythical trailer that doesn’t exist yet) would allow a shorter extension.
Just trying to save the OP expense and trouble. Nothing more.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
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blt2ski
Kirkland, Wa
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Grit,
reality, an extension for mount, and trailer hitch itself. I need to add a foot of hitch to one trailer to get it to go around, and jackknife my flatbeds. Typical pickups with a 3.5-4' hitch worked. But a flatbed 8' wide, one needs 4.5-5' of tongue length.
Those extensions I linked are for pickups with 10-12' bed campers, s those folks can tow with out supet long tongue extensions.
It's going to come down to a, OP will need to take ALL of our thoughts, put a positive and negative to the equation, maybe come up with a answer.
If this was me, depending upon the age of truck, I would do a hitch extension as I linked. Along with extending the trailer tongue, or if still in buying stage, have the manufacture build a longer tongue, so I can jack knife around the bike.
I would also add a leaf, or just plain replace the current rear springs with another 1500-2000 lbs of rating, so the rear does not say as much as the lighter springs. Potentially making it so not too much weight is pulled off the FA.
With that, I don't feel their is a single bullet point to do what the OP wants. It could mean literally needing to go with a heavier suspension rig too.
Marty
92 Navistar dump truck, 7.3L 7 sp, 4.33 gears with a Detroit no spin
2014 Chevy 1500 Dual cab 4x4
92 Red-e-haul 12K equipment trailer
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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I think he said he’s got a 2nd gen Dodge HD. So it’s got lots of springs already. A chubby dirt bike and a smallish trailer may not need anything. The rear spring packs on 2nd gens are built like a shiit brickhouse. Lol.
Yes the super combo of a double bubble receiver and big extension plugged into the bottom for the trailer seems doable. It’s just a really bad way to go about the whole thing. And very expensive considering the feller appears to not be made of money.
From his original post, a 12” extension will put the camper tongue ball the better part of 2” under the bike and the handlebars will be might close to the front of the trailer. I guess which way you load the bike could determine the only direction you could turn that day!
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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JRscooby wrote:Grit dog wrote:
Regarding the universal 3500lb rating. Pffft. Towed an (estimated) 6500-7klb trailer with no lack of tongue weight from here to Anchorage during mud season, where all the frost heaves were still very much at their max. 18” “3500lb” extension hanging off a factory 2” receiver. Never questioned it and it never gave any problems.
I would be surprised if anybody ever had a failure of the extension itself. After all, to bend a wire you need to hold one side of bend, put force on the other. Any extension will increase the force applied to hitch. If hitch, mounting, and even vehicle, is not designed to absorb that force, something gives.
Now the OP wants to add extra points for looseness, plus a 300+ hammer beating on the hitch and mounting plus do it full time.
Yup that was my point. The hitch extension, is a very stout cheater pipe. And to not get the bonus points for looseness, I’d jam a large flat washer r 2 under the stinger on the extension and under the stinger on the hitch ball. I think they make contraptions for that. But I liked the $free.99 solution.
One fell out once but I think it was on a washboard road. So I started setting them tight with a tap from a hammer and flat screwdriver. Gave that whole setup the rigidity of a guy who just doubled down on the viagras (so I’m told…).
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