ColoradoCorbo
The Rocky Mountains
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JimK-NY wrote:I would look for some options. Perhaps you can find a reasonably priced and safe place to store the camper until you have a suitable truck. Another option would be to pay to have it transported.
Update: I upgraded trucks, I'm running a 2016 Chevy 3500 now. I'm planning to pick up the camper this weekend.
In order to transport home, would heavy duty 2k+ lb. Rated ratchet straps do the trick? I was looking at torklift.com is this the industry leader for tie downs? Definitely my next purchase once I get my next paycheck.
TIA
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Buzzcut1
Norcal
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Joined: 10/04/2010
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ColoradoCorbo wrote:JimK-NY wrote:I would look for some options. Perhaps you can find a reasonably priced and safe place to store the camper until you have a suitable truck. Another option would be to pay to have it transported.
Update: I upgraded trucks, I'm running a 2016 Chevy 3500 now. I'm planning to pick up the camper this weekend.
In order to transport home, would heavy duty 2k+ lb. Rated ratchet straps do the trick? I was looking at torklift.com is this the industry leader for tie downs? Definitely my next purchase once I get my next paycheck.
TIA
in the short run just to get it home, yes if you drive really easy and watch the bumps. And torklift is the gold standard
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Corbo, yup 2” ratchet straps are plenty strong enough. But you don’t have anything to connect them to without wrapping them around the bottom of your bedsides to hook to the truck frame, which will cave in the bed sides on your truck bed.
Unless it’s a flatbed?
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mkirsch
Rochester, NY
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Joined: 04/09/2004
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ColoradoCorbo wrote:JimK-NY wrote:I would look for some options. Perhaps you can find a reasonably priced and safe place to store the camper until you have a suitable truck. Another option would be to pay to have it transported.
Update: I upgraded trucks, I'm running a 2016 Chevy 3500 now. I'm planning to pick up the camper this weekend.
In order to transport home, would heavy duty 2k+ lb. Rated ratchet straps do the trick? I was looking at torklift.com is this the industry leader for tie downs? Definitely my next purchase once I get my next paycheck.
TIA
Where are you going to anchor them on the truck? You hook them to the frame and run them over the outside of the bed, you'll scratch the bejeezus out of the paint and probably collapse the bed side.
I had the same problem when I went to pick up my camper. It all happened in a blur and I had to find dually brackets and figure out a way to tie the camper down for the trip home in an afternoon.
Thought I could just run a short ratchet strap between the tiedown point on the camper and the stake pocket on the truck bed. There wasn't room enough for even a small ratchet strap. I ended up having to throw straps up over the roof of the camper and strapping down to the stake pockets, BUT the camper ended up getting scratched by the straps. The camper was already 10 years old at the time and not perfect, so I just muttered about it under my breath and eventually got over it.
The camper is now 23 years old and looks good for its age with the same scratches.
Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
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ColoradoCorbo
The Rocky Mountains
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UPDATE:
Got the camper home, minimal scuffs/scratches. Parking her at a job site for now and going to start winter-proofing next week once I get done with the hardest parts of this job.
Back to my original question re:tie-downs. I priced out the frame mounts at forklift and they have two options. Steel & aluminum. Steel is around $850 for front & back. Aluminum is around $1150 for the pair. They are marketing the aluminum as Rust-proof but I believe my chassis is also steel. The plows here in CO use Mag-chloride, not salt.
Is it that big of a difference between the two materials?
I had been gun-ho to get the aluminum bc I tend to buy and cry one time, but I'm tempted to go with the cheaper option in this case as I might upgrade within a year or two. Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated.
~Corbo
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Reality Check
North Bend
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ColoradoCorbo wrote:UPDATE:
Got the camper home, minimal scuffs/scratches. Parking her at a job site for now and going to start winter-proofing next week once I get done with the hardest parts of this job.
Back to my original question re:tie-downs. I priced out the frame mounts at forklift and they have two options. Steel & aluminum. Steel is around $850 for front & back. Aluminum is around $1150 for the pair. They are marketing the aluminum as Rust-proof but I believe my chassis is also steel. The plows here in CO use Mag-chloride, not salt.
Is it that big of a difference between the two materials?
I had been gun-ho to get the aluminum bc I tend to buy and cry one time, but I'm tempted to go with the cheaper option in this case as I might upgrade within a year or two. Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated.
~Corbo
You're probably assuming that rock salt is worse than Mag-chloride; it's not. Rock salt washes off the road, vehicles, etc, easier, so it's detrimental effect is minimized easier. Mag-chloride (liquid deicers) stick better, hence why we use them, and in the end is why it does more damage. It's a trade off..safer roads vs the cost of the damage.
I wouldn't get to hung up on the details. $300 difference; get the one you can afford to like and want.
'16 F550 CC, 4x4 with Link Ultraride air suspension, '18 AF 1150. Just so we can play with our snowmobiles, dirt bikes and fishing boat. And new 20' tag along...kayaks, bikes, mc's and extra water and food!!
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StirCrazy
Kamloops, BC, Canada
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ColoradoCorbo wrote:UPDATE:
Got the camper home, minimal scuffs/scratches. Parking her at a job site for now and going to start winter-proofing next week once I get done with the hardest parts of this job.
Back to my original question re:tie-downs. I priced out the frame mounts at forklift and they have two options. Steel & aluminum. Steel is around $850 for front & back. Aluminum is around $1150 for the pair. They are marketing the aluminum as Rust-proof but I believe my chassis is also steel. The plows here in CO use Mag-chloride, not salt.
Is it that big of a difference between the two materials?
I had been gun-ho to get the aluminum bc I tend to buy and cry one time, but I'm tempted to go with the cheaper option in this case as I might upgrade within a year or two. Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated.
~Corbo
I am assuming you meant torklift? if you are talking about the actual frame brace, go with the steel. give them a shot of undercoating paint every couple years. It seems funny aluminum would even be an option as aluminum doesn't handle cyclic stresses well (small bending events over and over) when I entered your truck nothing aluminum came up can you post a link to what you're talking about?
I just punched in my truck, and it brought up an aluminum talon version, but I am not sure if that is just the bar or the bracket also. hmm interesting but I think for the extra money I would still go steel.
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srschang
Western NY
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Definitely spring for the aluminum. I had steel Torquelift tiedowns on my first two trucks, and spent lots of time trying to hammer the adapter in because the receiver rusts on the inside. Used sandpaper, files, lots of stuff to get rid of the rust in the receivers. The "aluminum" tiedowns aren't all aluminum; the part that bolts to the frame is stainless steel, the adapter is aluminum. I put them on my last few trucks, and they are maintenance free. In fact, I've used the same rear tiedowns swapping them truck to truck for my last couple trucks. I've been using the same tiedowns for 9 years or so, and they see lots of salt as I live near Buffalo, NY.
Drove to Alaska and back last year, 14,000 miles on some very bad roads with our 4800# camper and they worked great!
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ColoradoCorbo
The Rocky Mountains
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srschang wrote:Definitely spring for the aluminum. I had steel Torquelift tiedowns on my first two trucks, and spent lots of time trying to hammer the adapter in because the receiver rusts on the inside. Used sandpaper, files, lots of stuff to get rid of the rust in the receivers. The "aluminum" tiedowns aren't all aluminum; the part that bolts to the frame is stainless steel, the adapter is aluminum. I put them on my last few trucks, and they are maintenance free. In fact, I've used the same rear tiedowns swapping them truck to truck for my last couple trucks. I've been using the same tiedowns for 9 years or so, and they see lots of salt as I live near Buffalo, NY.
Drove to Alaska and back last year, 14,000 miles on some very bad roads with our 4800# camper and they worked great!
Thanks for the insight, I am just trying to get the camper winter ready and budget is tightening. Great to know that the difference is vastly superior. I like the idea of "maintenance-free" as I will have enough other things to maintain throughout the next couple years/journey.
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