VA-Apraisr
glen allen, VA
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Joined: 12/23/2004
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The point of this site is ask questions/get advice/REVEAL the solution. It's helps all of us that may encounter a similar issue. That said, WHAT was the SOLUTION? What did you figure out?? If cutting the vent fins and changing the electrical cord were the solution, great. I think that electrical cord may well have been your problem, but doubtful on cutting the a/c cover opening....but didn't know if you used the voltmeter to verify.
* This post was
edited 07/19/23 06:39pm by VA-Apraisr *
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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What is an acceptable delta T for a roof air conditioner? I.E. temperature difference between inside and the great out doors?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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Rick Jay
Greater Springfield area, MA
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Joined: 02/02/2003
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VA-Apraisr wrote:I think that electrical cord may well have been your problem, but doubtful on cutting the a/c cover opening...
I would tend to agree with your assessment.
wpatters1229, did you ever make voltage measurements at the A/C with the extension cord & adapter combination and compare it to the voltage with the generator running? Cutting the cover probably wouldn't change the voltage getting to the unit.
Anyway, whatever additional information you can provide that helped you to zero in on what you thought was the solution would be helpful should other folks have a similar issue in times to come.
~Rick
2005 Georgie Boy Cruise Master 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22
Rick, Gail, 1 girl (27-Angel since 2008), 1 girl (22), 2 boys (23 & 20).
2001 Honda Odyssey, Demco Aluminator tow bar & tow plate, SMI Silent Partner brake controller.
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wpatters1229
Northern Ca
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Joined: 09/01/2011
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I have an adapter for 30 to 20 and a 10-12 ga extension cord. The problem is that I think the breaker (20/30) dual breaker needs replacing. I ordered a new one and am also taking the unit out of the wooden box in the RV to check the fan.
Does anyone know how to test the Fan since it comes on via the controller board? Is it a 12v fan or a 120v fan?
FourWinds 5000 "The Gypsy" pulling "Herbie" the Jeep Wrangler '95. Using Ready Brake.
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wpatters1229
Northern Ca
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One other thing. When the temp outside is in the 90's the A/C works for a while and then trips the breaker. If it is in the 80's it does not and this is in an RV site with proper voltage. I have one of those attachments that checks the shore voltage etc.. It is an old unit so changing out a possible bad breaker is easier and cost affective than a whole new unit.
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Rick Jay
Greater Springfield area, MA
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wpatters1229 wrote:I have two meters one being a fluke. I also have a degree in electronics. But was not sure of how the RV deals with this A/C problem. I did figure it out and all is well.
So, I guess all is not well?
We're trying to help you, but you haven't responded to the questions we asked to help you diagnose your problem. I'm still leaning toward then 20A to 30A adapter.
Can you tell us what voltages you measure at an wall outlet inside the motorhome when the A/C is running? It would be interesting to compare these readings on a cooler day and then again on a hot (90+) day, and several times, not just when the A/C is first turned on, but after it's been running for a while. I suspect the voltage at the A/C is sagging under the higher temperature conditions enough to trip the 20A breaker.
"I have an adapter for 30 to 20 and a 10-12 ga extension cord." Is the adapter for a 30A plug (male) to 20A receptacle (female), or for a 20A plug (male) to a 30A receptacle (female)? The latter would allow you to use your 30A RV shore power cord on a 20A outlet. The first one would allow you to plug a standard 120VAC extension cord into a 30A RV receptacle.
You say a "10-12 gauge extension cord"? Which is it, and how long is it? How old is it and does it appear to be in good shape? Do the connection ends get hot while it's being used while being used?
I'm not sure what you mean with this: "...and am also taking the unit out of the wooden box in the RV to check the fan." What unit out of what wooden box?
"Does anyone know how to test the Fan since it comes on via the controller board? Is it a 12v fan or a 120v fan?" Are you referring to the fan on the A/C unit? If so, I believe that should be 120VAC.
If you're trying to run your entire RV off a single 20A connection, be aware that other appliances in the RV might be adding to the current draw in addition to the A/C, unless you're specifically turned them off. Things such as electric water heater, refrigerator, battery charger, TVs, etc. With only a 20A supply, you should be able to get the A/C to run properly, but only if ALL other draws on that 120VAC line are shut-off. Again, AC voltage measurements inside the RV would go along way to help diagnose this. A voltage measurement without the A/C running, then one with it running, and then several other with it running at various times during the day and different temperatures.
Well, good luck. Any specific troubleshooting info you can provide (voltage measurements at various operating conditions) could be very helpful.
~Rick
* This post was
edited 08/23/23 11:14am by Rick Jay *
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