RvRepairNoob
Canada
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Joined: 07/14/2023
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Hi,
I hope I’m posting this in the right sub forum.
So I’ve undertaken repairing a water damaged RV for my 72 year old mother. It was given to her by a relative to bring up to our newly acquired family cottage and camping ground. Unfortunately it had been neglected for 2-3 years and water got in. The RV is a 2009 Rockwood, either Mini Lite or Ultra Lite, memory is currently failing me.
I’m generally handy, cabinet maker/woodworker with construction experience. But I know nothing about RVs. I have done my research, quite a bit of it, but I’d really appreciate input from experienced individuals to line me up right.
The interior I can manage, but the roof I could use guidance on. The roof is, I believe, fleece backed TPO. The water damage is also fairly fresh, so while I have wet swollen plywood, there doesn’t seem to be any mold. I’m able to see the swollen plywood under the membrane and the damage ranges from 1 to 2 feet along the 25 foot length of one side.
Here’s a breakdown of how I was planning on going about this, followed by the things I’m unclear on.
1. Cut membrane 1 inch from the edges and carefully pull/peel back til I hit dry plywood.
2. Cut out and remove damaged plywood, clean/disinfect, let dry thoroughly, instal/glue on new plywood.
3. Glue the membrane onto the new plywood.
4. Use 4 inch RV seam tape to seal the cuts, the 1 inch distance of my cuts from the edge allowing me to tape 2 1/2 to 3 inches on the roof then wrapping down over the edges.
5. Cover the problem area with rubber sealant as an extra precaution.
My questions/what I’m unclear on:
1) What adhesive should I use for fleece backed membrane onto plywood? Ideally I’d prefer a spray adhesive over liquid.
2) To ensure proper adhesion of the rubber roof sealant coat(s) to the membrane, should some sort of bonding type primer be applied first? If so, what kind?
3) What kind of rubber sealant should I use? Are there some affordable options?
4) What kind of sealant caulk should I use to reseal roof vents and other accessories?
I should note that the RV will be permanently set up and will eventually have a roof built over it. I ask about affordable options because this roof repair will at most be exposed to the element for 1 year/1 winter. Afterwards it will be covered. So while I want to do a proper job, the limited exposure of this repair is a factor, and if it can help the budget then all the better. I could be wrong but there seem to be products marketed specifically to RVs that have close equivalents in construction materials at a much lower price.
I welcome any and all tips, recommendations and corrections to my planned repair process.
Thank you for you time.
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QCMan
Independent Republic of Horry
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Joined: 12/19/2005
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You need to back up and rethink this. We had a MiniLite that we chased leaks in for five years and never found it. It was under an RV port and every time it was humid out it would stink of mold. If we took it someplace and it rained we could not stand being in it. It was like a sponge! It will give you more grief than anything else. Save your effort and donate it to the fire department for fire practice. It took three months in indoor heated and cooled storage to dry it out enough to sell it for a very low price. I think it was going to be an ice fishing house. If water has been in there there is mold.
* This post was
edited 07/15/23 09:46am by QCMan *
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BobsYourUncle
Calgary Alberta Canada
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Joined: 12/12/2003
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There are a variety of materials used and methods to build. Aluminum stud vs wood stud - fiberglass and sandwich panel sides vs stick frame, aluminum siding, and on it goes. There are a variety of roof materials and construction methods too.
I tore and old Citation to the bones and literally rebuilt every last bit of it.
(My psychiatric counseling sessions should be done in another couple years) ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
It will take you more time and effort to open things up to get at the affected areas than it will to do the repairs.
Be prepared to spend a gob of time on it. If you think you can do it in 50 hours, be sure to allot 250. Voice of experience here...
Do keep in mind that everything you cut out and fix absolutely must be securely joined to, or totally replace the original piece. These things bounce and flex a lot going down the road, and rely on everything being joined together as one integral unit in order to hold together.
If you want to see a very detailed picture horror story of a total rebuild, look at the link in my sig.
You will either say "Hey I can do that" or you will run run away!!
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free radical
Canada
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Joined: 02/07/2008
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Fwiw
If the roof is completely dry Id use one of those special truck bedliner coatings to waterproof it.
https://besttruckupgrades.com/best-diy-roll-on-bedliners-reviews/
Puting aluminum over plywood is bad idea as it will sweat and create condensation.
May not hurt anything IF plywood is coated w some waterproof paint or epoxy but then again the water may seep into interior again.
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mordecai81
United States
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Joined: 10/13/2015
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We had a 2011 Mini-Lite. The roof and floors were a lauan-styrofoam-lauan laminated sandwich. I've never heard of a reasonable way to repair that structure once compromised. If the trailer is going to be static I would look at getting what is wet dried out then building a peaked roof over the whole rig.
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