NamMedevac 70
Reno
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Sounds like he has the money to pay for assistance such as mobile RV repair recommended by the RV park. A welding shop attached my Class 4 hitch on two of my trucks and they have the know how and tools to assist.
I attached a class 3 hitch on my last Ram 1500 and the 2500 came with a Class 4 installed already. Maybe some other RVers in the campground has the tools and know how.
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240vPlug
Maryland
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Grit dog wrote:This is one of those, way better to have someone else do it than try yourself type of things, just by reading your post. Especially if money is not tight, which it isn’t if you’re driving a Rivian.
Well heck I see your in WA...I would give you a few bucks to to help out with it. I like to know how to do these things myself so that I don't have to rely on someone else.
I mainly posted here to get opinions on how to best approach it. Sharing the knowledge is good for everyone as it makes for safer towing and protects everyone else on the road. I must admit that I don't know much about towing, but just the same I am sure there are many things that I know a lot about that others don't. I am always willing to share my knowledge and I would never try to make someone else feel bad for asking questions about something to gain additional knowledge.
With that said, you suggestion to hire is pro is also reasonable.
The last part of your post would appear to be judgmental but I know that's not how you meant it.
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240vPlug
Maryland
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dedmiston wrote:Hey 240vPlug,
Welcome to the forum. Hopefully folks notice that this is your first post here and they take it easy on you. Sometimes the well-meaning members get a little intense and it feels personal.
It's not personal yet. They haven't gotten to know you well enough to be rude yet.
Kidding.
I hope you find your answers and get to enjoy your camping.
Cheers,
Dave - Administrator
Thanks Dave! I do appreciate all the responses. Even the judgmental responses are fine...I realize those folks that don't write it probably still think it...its fine. I was prepared for the comments about the Rivian. I actually enjoy working on my own stuff. I have read the manual and know how to take the measurements. I think I am just going to go at it with a breaker bar.
I actually have two Rivians. I have the truck and the SUV. I towed it with the truck and it was excellent (couldn't even tell it was back there) though I still think she was nose up a bit because the tongue jack had to go all the way up to get the spring bars out. The SUV, despite riding on the same platform, seem even more nose up. This is why I didn't measure and adjust before setting out because I assumed that the SUV would be the same as the truck. The SUV will probably tow it most of the time (Wife's SUV). The Rivian SUV has a shorter wheelbase so a slightly lower tow rating of 7700. The Rivian Truck is rated to 11,000.
I do realize there will be some sway but the reason I want to adjust now is because even other cars and pickups were causing sway...of course to a lesser extent than the big rigs. I never felt like I was going to lose control but there obviously isn't enough weight on the tongue and I want to fix that before driving back if possible.
* This post was
edited 07/14/23 12:30pm by 240vPlug *
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Tyler0215
Iowa
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Weigh before you do any thing! Truck only, loaded and redy to go. Truck and trailer together, loade and ready to go. Then you have a place to start.
I would "GUESS" from what you have said you a light on tongue weight.
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valhalla360
No paticular place.
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Joined: 08/19/2009
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Tyler0215 wrote:Weigh before you do any thing! Truck only, loaded and redy to go. Truck and trailer together, loade and ready to go. Then you have a place to start.
I would "GUESS" from what you have said you a light on tongue weight.
That's my best guess based on the limited info.
It's also possible, though less likely, the truck is overloaded. Just because the tow rating is 11k doesn't mean you can tow 11k without other ratings being over the limits. You might be over axle or GVWR and that can result in a squiggly ride.
One other thought, what are the tires? If the are passenger (as opposed to LT) with marginal payload rating, that can make for a squiggly ride.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV
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blt2ski
Kirkland, Wa
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I'm going to go with a combo. Hitch too high as noted, along with too little HW. Nose high would make the too little HW be exaggerated some.
As noted, removing bolts adjusting etc is not a hard thing to do on the road. I've done it more than once. Have some penetrating liquid and a hammer to help it go between the threads helps. As would a 3-5' pipe to go over the breaker bar.
A tape to verify you really changed heights etc.
Marty
92 Navistar dump truck, 7.3L 7 sp, 4.33 gears with a Detroit no spin
2014 Chevy 1500 Dual cab 4x4
92 Red-e-haul 12K equipment trailer
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240vPlug
Maryland
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valhalla360 wrote:Tyler0215 wrote:Weigh before you do any thing! Truck only, loaded and redy to go. Truck and trailer together, loade and ready to go. Then you have a place to start.
I would "GUESS" from what you have said you a light on tongue weight.
That's my best guess based on the limited info.
It's also possible, though less likely, the truck is overloaded. Just because the tow rating is 11k doesn't mean you can tow 11k without other ratings being over the limits. You might be over axle or GVWR and that can result in a squiggly ride.
One other thought, what are the tires? If the are passenger (as opposed to LT) with marginal payload rating, that can make for a squiggly ride.
I really appreciate all the advice you guys are giving here. I have always been a car guy and so things like this interest me and I am always eager to learn new things from knowledgeable folks like all of you.
Good point there. Completely valid points about the tow capacity. Max tongue weight on SUV (Current Tow Vehicle) is 810. I did the calcs a while back by subtracting curb weight from GVWR and estimating the amount of people and luggage in the truck. What others have suggested on weighing it at a CAT scale is excellent advice!
I think right now I will try to adjust to get it more level. When we get back I will probably have a pro evaluate the setup and also weight things as suggested here. The ball angle and L brackets might need adjustments as well for the new tow vehicle.
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JRscooby
Indepmo
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mkirsch wrote:
You might have to stand on the end of the wrench and give it a bounce or two to crack them loose. Just be aware that the wrench isn't going to hold you up and be ready to compensate when it turns. We don't need any skinned shins.
This is bad advice, unless talking to a kid. (kids bounce, and heal quicker) First, most, if not all, of the bounce energy will be absorbed by suspension of vehicle. And the vehicle moving makes not just a skinned shin, but a fall around hard things.
Use arms, firm grip on wrench, gradually transfer body weight from legs too arms/wrench.
Like I said before, if you use block or jackstand under hitch, more of the wrench travel turns the nut.
blt2ski wrote:I'm going to go with a combo. Hitch too high as noted, along with too little HW. Nose high would make the too little HW be exaggerated some.
As noted, removing bolts adjusting etc is not a hard thing to do on the road. I've done it more than once. Have some penetrating liquid and a hammer to help it go between the threads helps. As would a 3-5' pipe to go over the breaker bar.
A tape to verify you really changed heights etc.
Marty
Also lowering the tongue will increase TW. Maybe not enough to matter, depending on where weight is in the trailer.
OP, about the fasteners. Working on a lot of stuff, for a lot of years, I have found the split type lock washers often break when reused, sometimes distort when removed first time. Unless you are sure you will only need to adjust once to get it right, get some cheap nail polish and remover. Tighten up, going to tow to test? Put marks on nuts, threads, and bolt heads so you can see at a glance at walkaround if starts to back off. Once you know it is right, take apart, use Loctite. (Touch-up paint lasts longer than nail polish to do the marks)
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blt2ski
Kirkland, Wa
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Scooby,
Yes correct on the hitch weight changing. Level might be 100 lb, an inch high 98, 2' 95 lbs. Going down, an equal increase IE to 102, 105 lbs. Enough to stop fishtail sway? That would depend on the how high at the start, vs getting to level or slightly down as I prefer. Along with the actual change in weight that occurs during this swing.
Marty
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240vPlug
Maryland
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ok, shoulder feeling better today. picked up a nice impact from Lowes. Shank bolts broke loose pretty easy with the impact. When I measured this morning top of ball to top of coupler I was 8" high. I removed the head from the shank and switched the shank from rise position to drop. Reinstalled head in lowest position and I was able to get 5" of drop. Now I am only 3" high....much better...for now anyway. The Rivian has air bags and we drove down in the low ride height setting. After my adjustments I measured and the standard ride height was better! Low ride height actually gave me 3/4 of a inch rise on the ball! Anyway I hooked everything up and its much improved.
Once we get back I will need a custom shank from Fastway to get the drop I need for it to ride level. Thank you guys agian for all this excellent advice. My wife and 16yo daughter I am sure have some nail polish somewhere. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
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