Reisender
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TheLostBoy wrote:Reisender wrote:TheLostBoy wrote:Greetings all,
I've had two campers in my life and the first one I had was pretty rough and had lots of issues. One was that the water pump would randomly run for a second or so, which I didn't have the time or funds to look into, so I just turned off the pump at night so we could sleep.
We upgraded to a "newer" (to us) Jay Feather and for the last couple of years, we had no issues with it, but for our last two trips, the water pump started randomly running for a few seconds, just like our old camper. It SHOULD only run when water is called (faucet is opened) and I don't think I have any leaks (that I can see) and I made sure that all of the faucets were closed, but it STILL runs randomly and it it so frustrating. Do I need a new pump (or whatever the sensor is that tells the pump to run when the pressure after the pump drops)?
Thanks,
TLB
Good morning lost boy.
Start with replacing the check valve. If that doesn’t work you have a leak.
The other thing I would do is check to see that the taps for your outside shower are turned off good. People forget to turn those off and just rely on the sprayer stop.
Good luck with your search.
John.
Yeah, the outside shower was the first thing I thought of, but they're all tightly closed. No obvious leaking either.
Oh ok. Then give the check valve a check out.
I also had a pump diaphragm with a pinhole leak in an RV about 20 years ago. Tough to chase down but hang in there.
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TheLostBoy
Canada
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JimK-NY wrote:No the pump can run even if all the faucets are off. One cause could be a slight leak. I would check the pump first. Slight leaks can occur with older pumps. Temperature changes can also cause the pump to run. If you turn off the hot water, pressure will slowly drop and the pump will cycle periodically to maintain the pressure. Changes in temperature can also do this even if the HW tank has not been heated. Temps dropping during the night can be enough to trigger the pump.
If the RV is not in use, it is easy to check for leaks. Pressurize the system and turn off the pump. If ambient temps are roughly constant, pressure should hold for at least a day or two and the pump will not run when turned back on.
What I'm afraid of is that it could be a leak inside the walls that I can't see. I don't have any water showing up anywhere that I can see (not around the pump either).
How do I measure the pressure in my lines?
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Reisender
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TheLostBoy wrote:JimK-NY wrote:No the pump can run even if all the faucets are off. One cause could be a slight leak. I would check the pump first. Slight leaks can occur with older pumps. Temperature changes can also cause the pump to run. If you turn off the hot water, pressure will slowly drop and the pump will cycle periodically to maintain the pressure. Changes in temperature can also do this even if the HW tank has not been heated. Temps dropping during the night can be enough to trigger the pump.
If the RV is not in use, it is easy to check for leaks. Pressurize the system and turn off the pump. If ambient temps are roughly constant, pressure should hold for at least a day or two and the pump will not run when turned back on.
What I'm afraid of is that it could be a leak inside the walls that I can't see. I don't have any water showing up anywhere that I can see (not around the pump either).
How do I measure the pressure in my lines?
Not sure on that or if it would be useful.
If the check valve does t fix it and you know the pump diaphragm is good consider “half splitting” the system. That involves putting a shutoff valve at a point you think is the half way point in the system. Then shut it off. If it still cycles you know the problem is in the first half the system.
Good luck.
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JimK-NY
NY
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TheLostBoy wrote:JimK-NY wrote:No the pump can run even if all the faucets are off. One cause could be a slight leak. I would check the pump first. Slight leaks can occur with older pumps. Temperature changes can also cause the pump to run. If you turn off the hot water, pressure will slowly drop and the pump will cycle periodically to maintain the pressure. Changes in temperature can also do this even if the HW tank has not been heated. Temps dropping during the night can be enough to trigger the pump.
If the RV is not in use, it is easy to check for leaks. Pressurize the system and turn off the pump. If ambient temps are roughly constant, pressure should hold for at least a day or two and the pump will not run when turned back on.
What I'm afraid of is that it could be a leak inside the walls that I can't see. I don't have any water showing up anywhere that I can see (not around the pump either).
How do I measure the pressure in my lines?
You don't need to measure the pressure but rather make sure the system maintains pressure. Open a faucet slightly. The pump will go on and then off. As soon as the pump turns off, shut the faucet. Return hours or a day later. Turn on the pump. It should not run at all. This method is only valid if the temps withint the system are constant. That includes the HW tank. You need to make sure that the HW has been off for a day or so. I can perform this test over a period of a couple of several days if ambient temps are relatively constant. If the temp drops the pump will turn on to compensate for the lower pressure in the system due to the lower temp.
Most pumps will turn on if there is even a very small leak. So this is a very sensitive test providing ambient temps are consistent. It is pretty common for temps to drop at night and increase during the day. As long as the temp swings are fairly consistent you can still perform this test. Check the next day at the same time you started the test.
The chances of a leak somewhere in the walls are very minimal. Most of the runs are continuous without any joints. If the pex has been damaged, it is likely the leak will be very noticeable and the pump will run every few minutes or even more often.
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LouLawrence
Traveling the US fulltime since 2000.
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The accumulator (bladder) will not help solve your problem, it will only make the pump cycle less often but for a longer period of time while the accumulator gets re-pressurized.
It never hurts to have a spare pump so, assuming the pump is easily accessible, I would replace the pump first. There is an internal check valve in most so you would know pretty much right away if that's where the issue is.
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wnjj
Cornelius, Oregon
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TheLostBoy wrote:CA Traveler wrote:Could be the check valve. I installed a better quality one from HD.
Hmm, I'm not sure what that is as I just see the pump. Could the check valve be part of the pump?
Yes. People on here often talk about the check valve and perhaps they have an additional one, but diaphragm pumps are nothing but a couple of check values and a solenoid. If you are even slightly mechanically inclined you can take the pump head apart and make sure it's all clean in there. It only takes a small crumb of plastic debris to cause it to leak back.
Some have installed a check valve on the suction side of the pump to stop a leaking pump but that's more of a workaround than a solution to a bad pump.
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C Schomer
Pueblo West, Co.
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I’ve had six RVs and the only check valves were the pump discharge valves themselves. Those pumps are real easy to take apart and check the valve discs and seats to make sure they are clean and smooth. Craig
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