Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Hemisport wrote:Grit dog wrote:Wait yours is a ‘12 so it has a 2” receiver still I believe.
Yes it does have the 2”.
However after measuring the northern light 8.11 it is roughly 59” from my rear receiver to the rear of the landing on the camper. Which means I would need a torkllify super hitch with a 48” truss system. Even after all that my hitch ball will still be slightly under the rear deck which is not a deal killer as long as I can still turn ok. The other down side is apparently the 48” is only good for 4000lbs unless you use weight distribution. Not sure if that can be done on a boat trailer as they are not a v frame tongue.
I think you may find it doesn’t need to be that long. Both the campers you’re considering are the same length or a shade shorter than our old camper. But the style of the boat and trailer and length of the trailer tongue could also require more hitch extension.
Ideally I’d have rather had at least 30” of hitch extension but I made it work.
If this is going to be a long term setup it may make sense to just get a big receiver and the super truss. That’s the easy button, albeit kind of spendy.
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notsobigjoe
southeast
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KD4UPL wrote:That's weird, my 48" super truss is good for 6,000 pounds without WDH. I'll sell it.
WDH and surge grakes do not work well together. How does an 9' camper hang over 4'? Is this a truck with a 5' bed?
It's gotta be a short bed. My 1181 only extends 4 feet from the rear of the Tow beast from Reese. My Reese extension is exactly 48 inches and reaches almost flush with the back step of the camper. The only thing that sticks out is the ball. Actually I'm not really sure of the exact length of the extension because it is 48 inches and then the part that slips inside and gets pinned. 54 maybe? I don't remember
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3 tons
NV.
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The Reese 48” requires a 2.5” receiver, apparently the OP has a 2.0”….In this case add a Curt direct bolt on hitch having a 2.5” receiver…Having said that, 48” sounds longer than necessary considering your camper’s overhang, but either way the Curt hitch 2.5” hitch is commercial rated and much stronger than the factory hitch, and it doesn’t affect the factory hitch..
3 tons
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notsobigjoe
southeast
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3 tons wrote:The Reese 48” requires a 2.5” receiver, apparently the OP has a 2.0”….In this case add a Curt direct bolt on hitch having a 2.5” receiver…Having said that, 48” sounds longer than necessary considering your camper’s overhang, but either way the Curt hitch 2.5” hitch is commercial rated and much stronger than the factory hitch, and it doesn’t affect the factory hitch..
3 tons
Will a standard receiver support the extra length, weight and bounce?
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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^Refer to my post above. It worked fine on our 07 Dodge 2500 factory hitch with about the same loads and about 2’ max of hitch extension. I wasnt comfortable going heavier or longer extension than that, though.
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jimh406
Western MT
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Grit dog wrote:The truck will drive better with the boat hooked up compared to just the camper…..
But it’s good to start the paranoia and weird “solutions” early on in the thread!
Of course, there is no way for you to know if it will drive better or not, but feel free to pretend that you know for sure. Oh, and while you are at it, might as well say he can get by with a a 1500. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
Fwiw, I didn’t say he needed a DRW. I said might. I’m sure you tow thousands of miles with a shortbed and 6200 lb boat, so that makes you an expert. Oh wait, have you ever towed a boat of any type?
Everyone gets to decide if they think it will work or not. Responsible people tell the newbies that they might need a DRW. You don’t have to like it, but there is a reason why so many people buy them. You aren’t enlightened to discourage it.
It’s up to the OP what he/she chooses to do.
* This post was
edited 06/26/23 12:24am by jimh406 *
'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.
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3 tons
NV.
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notsobigjoe wrote:3 tons wrote:The Reese 48” requires a 2.5” receiver, apparently the OP has a 2.0”….In this case add a Curt direct bolt on hitch having a 2.5” receiver…Having said that, 48” sounds longer than necessary considering your camper’s overhang, but either way the Curt hitch 2.5” hitch is commercial rated and much stronger than the factory hitch, and it doesn’t affect the factory hitch..
3 tons
Will a standard receiver support the extra length, weight and bounce?
Well, looking at the AF site and the 865, it doesn’t appear that there’s a whole lot of rear overhang to me (now on our second camper), thus my guess would be (after you add the ball mount…) most likely a 14” (e.g. pin to pin, excluding ball mount…) extension, or at the most say an 18” is all...I’m not all too familiar with your year Ram, but as I recall the factory 2” hitch on my 07 dually was good for about 1200# tongue weight (check your manual for specs), but exponentially less when using an extension (say, 350# @ 14” = what??)…Because of this, a Curt 2.5” direct bolt-on hitch seems better suited…
However, be a skeptic when looking at manufacturer’s so called dry weights, which typically do not include things like water weight (nor, 6gal in water heater) or LPG weight, battery weight, any options, tools, clothing or groceries, in fact one manufacturer even considered jacks an option…
3 tons
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Bedlam
PNW
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My Ford short bed needed a 28" extension to tow my enclosed trailer behind my Arctic Fox 811.
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3 tons
NV.
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Bedlam, That’s a sage point, I missed that his truck was a short bed…
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mkirsch
Rochester, NY
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Hemisport wrote:Yes it does have the 2”.
However after measuring the northern light 8.11 it is roughly 59” from my rear receiver to the rear of the landing on the camper. Which means I would need a torkllify super hitch with a 48” truss system. Even after all that my hitch ball will still be slightly under the rear deck which is not a deal killer as long as I can still turn ok. The other down side is apparently the 48” is only good for 4000lbs unless you use weight distribution. Not sure if that can be done on a boat trailer as they are not a v frame tongue.
The ball can be significantly under the camper and it be no problem. In fact closer is better as it reduces weight transfer off the front end. Just depends on what's sticking up on the tongue.
Turning is your only concern but with what is basically a sharp v-nosed trailer, the boat can be quite close to the camper and still won't contact unless you back up and jackknife it severely.
Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
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