rvman69
philpot
Full Member
Joined: 09/26/2013
View Profile
 Offline
|
I have posted some photos on here before but something was going on earlier. It seems like it will let me do it now. I dont know if they were working on the site or something. Thanks
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/YLdhOqnl.png)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/J2CkaPLl.jpg)
|
rvman69
philpot
Full Member
Joined: 09/26/2013
View Profile
Offline
|
I was camping all weekend and did not have any time to look at the fridge any. Always something going on. The bad thing was the first full day there we had a storm roll thru and lost power. I was like here we go. No propane operation so fridge is not operating. It was only off 30 minutes thank goodness. Does the electrode look ok to you guys.
Jim, you said to disconnect the electrode from the reignitor and see if I still here the noise. You said if I dont it means the electrode has a short in wiring or from contamination. With the electrode unplugged should the reignitor not make any noise like pulsing. Because when I did the test with screwdriver up to it and got a spark (could not tell how good of spark). When I pulled the screwdriver way away I could still here the reignitor pulsing. Could that mean it is shorting out inside? Just wanting to get this figured out so i have some peace of mind. Thanks
|
bigfootford
Fair Oaks, California
Senior Member
Joined: 12/03/2002
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
Oops sorry. Glad you asked the question about the igniter pulsing.
When you disconnect the electrode wire from the igniter and hear the clicking it would mean that the electrode wire has a short.
I will correct my post...
You can tell if the electrode wire is open (no connection) or has connection to the electrode with your DVM.
There should be a near "0" resistance reading measuring from the igniter connector wire to the electrode. Set your dvm on 200 ohms scale... Touch the DVM leads together, you should read almost 0 ohms. Then do the connector on the wire to the electrode tip. Should read near 0 ohms.
If the electrode wire was open, no connection then you should hear the igniter clicking/snapping.
If you have 0 ohms on the igniter wire to the electrode and the screw that retains the cerramic tip is tight, and do not hear the snapping then the wire has a short somewhere there at the screw.
Jim.
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Mich 245/70XDS2's, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260,Lifeline 100ah, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Trimetric, Delorme/laptop, Holux gps rec,led lights, Wave-3 heat.
|
rvman69
philpot
Full Member
Joined: 09/26/2013
View Profile
Offline
|
Jim, Just to be clear. I did hear the ignitor snapping/pulsing with the ignitor plugged in and also with it unplugged. On the last part of your last post when you said (If you have 0 ohms on the igniter wire to the electrode and the screw that retains the cerramic tip is tight, and do not hear the snapping then the wire has a short somewhere there at the screw.) Is the snapping you are talking about at the electrode(spark)? Not pulsing at the ignitor. Thanks
|
bigfootford
Fair Oaks, California
Senior Member
Joined: 12/03/2002
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
rvman69 wrote:Jim, Just to be clear. I did hear the ignitor snapping/pulsing with the ignitor plugged in and also with it unplugged. On the last part of your last post when you said (If you have 0 ohms on the igniter wire to the electrode and the screw that retains the cerramic tip is tight, and do not hear the snapping then the wire has a short somewhere there at the screw.) Is the snapping you are talking about at the electrode(spark)? Not pulsing at the ignitor. Thanks
You say that you hear the NOISE both with the electrode wire connected and the electrode is screwed tight and in position but you see no spark and you hear the NOISE with the electrode wire disconnected from the igniter.....
Are the sounds different or the same? Arc is a snap , not sure what the pulsing is you're talking about.
Do the ohms measurement. Disconnect the Electrode wire and measure the resistance from the connector to the electrode tip... Should show 0 ohms.
Then measure the resistance from the electrode wire, still disconnected, to the little tab that the screw holds the electrode ceramic to the burner frame . Make sure the screw is holding the tab tightly to the burner frame. You should see no connection thus no meter reading.
We know that the control board is working because you said that you saw 12vdc on the Solenoid.... I THINK you said you can hear the solenoid click on. It should stay on and then click off after about 3 seconds.
Jim.
|
|
|
rvman69
philpot
Full Member
Joined: 09/26/2013
View Profile
Offline
|
Jim, let me ask this. If the reignitor is like it is in this pic with the electrode wire unhooked and way away from it. Should I hear any noise from the reignitor when the main board sends the 12v to the reignitor? Because I do. The best I can describe it is a wee wee wee. Not a snap snap snap. Any time I have got the electrode to spark at all it has had to be real close to the burner and it has not been a snap snap snap like I would expect. The same when I did the test with a screwdriver. It was more like a faint click click click. With a real faint spark. I wonder if the reignitor could be internally shorted and is not sending the voltage to the electrode that it should. I do definitely here a noise coming from the reignitor when there is no electrode hooked to it. I also here that same noise coming from the reignitor when the electrode is hooked to it. The noise from the reignitor is the same with or without electrode hooked up. I have watched videos of other people working on there electrode or replacing it and I have never got a spark like I see on there's. I am thinking maybe with my original electrode it was to far away to the burner at the factory setting to spark at the lower voltage it was getting. Then when I put the new one in it was real close to the burner and that is why I got the little sparking that I got. What are your thoughts? If it is a bad reignitor I hope I can actually find one. If it is say the coil covering in the reignitor has cracked I wonder if it could be fixed like you can fix arcade monitors and old TVs with sealant. Just a thought. Thanks
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/Fg18YKNl.jpg)
|
rvman69
philpot
Full Member
Joined: 09/26/2013
View Profile
Offline
|
Also I forgot to say right before I took the camper to the campground I checked both the old and new electrode's for continuity from the end of wire to the tip of electrode and got 0 ohm reading on both. I have the original electrode here still so I guess I could check continuity from end of wire to the metal tab on electrode to make sure it is not shorted out. I should be able to go out to campground this evening or tomorrow to do more testing if I need to. Thanks
|
bigfootford
Fair Oaks, California
Senior Member
Joined: 12/03/2002
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
Ok we got the noise thing sorted out..hahahaa.
The Igniter has three jobs!
1 Produce a spark
2. Wait to sense that there is a flame, if no flame for about 30 seconds you will get a check light. Not sure if the igniter does mutiple sparks in this situation.
3. Sense that there is a constant flame. This allows the Thermocouple
to warm up and produce a small voltage on it's wires that attach to the control board. A lost of flame from wind or loss of propane it will be detected/sensed and cause a retry, 'spark" to relight. If no flame is sensed after the retry the thermocouple will cool and a check light occurs.
A note, the Dinosaur board does an attempted recovery from a flame out due to wind etc it will retry XX times before it stops and lights the check light.
The sense of flame is the Igniter sensing a small current flowing from the burner, through the flame to the electrode then up the wire to the Igniter! The flame actually produces the small current!
I'm unsure if we can hear a good igniter make a sound with the electrode wire disconnected from the Igniter.
Replacement is going to be problematic from what I have researched.
This one is the only one I have found and the Vendor list of Dometic fridges does not include our 2652's.... You might contact them and ask if it will work.
I doubt it but might be worth a try. Expensive though.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164674934043
I can not imagine that there are no igniters avail for this fridge. Found none online.
I called our local Camping World and they have none. Not very helpful.
Called a local Trailer and RV parts... They have them in stock $47.81
They do not ship... ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/frown.gif "frown")
I think you will need one... I would contact a RV parts and service near where you live and see if they have them....
Jim.
* This post was
edited 07/06/23 04:53pm by bigfootford *
|
dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
Senior Member
Joined: 06/11/2007
View Profile
Offline
|
This system, the Reignitor does just ONE thing.
When the control module sends the Reignitor a 12 volt signal, it just sends the Electrode a spark current. Thats IT.
On this system, the control board,
1. sends a 12 volt signal to OPEN the gas valve
2. RECEIVES the FLAME signal LIT/ON Thru the standard Thermocoupler, then the control board removes the 12 volt power to the reignitor BUT leaves 12 volts to the gas valve.
This system also has a 3 attempt Gas lighting sequence. After 3 attempts it will lock out and turn on the CHECK light on the inside control board.
You can use a 16 or 18 gauge wire(12 inches long or so and strip both ends 1/4 inch. Stab one end of wire into the spade area of the Reignitor and hold the other end(insulated needle nose pliers) about 1/2 inch from a ground source. IF the Reignitor is good you will see a spark.
LAST, either for this thread or another a few months ago, I attempted to find a reignitor. NONE. I did find an aftermarket brand, but did not pursue getting it. Doug
|
rvman69
philpot
Full Member
Joined: 09/26/2013
View Profile
Offline
|
Doug, let me ask this. How does the board remove the voltage from the reignitor but not the gas valve? Is there another wire that ends up feeding the gas valve 12v? Because the yellow wire that comes out of the board with the 12v goes to the gas valve then another yellow wire comes out of that same gas valve connector up to the reignitor. I am just trying to understand how it works. Thanks
|
|
|
