rvman69
philpot
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Jim, my board is not wired like Dave's wiring diagram. It is a totally different board. My board does not look like the one in the manual pic. You have to go by the listed items. There is no pic of my board in the manual. It has a J1 and J9 that has to be used and most other connections are different. Look at my pic listed connections compared to his wiring diagram. Even on Dinosaur boards they have a board just to replace my board only basically. If I wired it up like his diagram it definitely would not work. Thanks
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bigfootford
Fair Oaks, California
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Joined: 12/03/2002
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Well I do see the igniter/solenoid output connector on the control board wiring is different from you board.
Dinosaur says:
*Warning: The Micro P-711 CANNOT replace any Black Box Board part number that starts with "385"! You must identify
the part number of the physical board that is actually in your refrigerator now! Failure to do so can result in getting the wrong
board! Please look on the black cover or under the black cover for a part number that begins with "385 or "293"
I noticed that your board says Canada on it...Wonder if that is the reason it is different. I have no clue about that.
If you have the 12vdc coming off that Yellow wire when it is ignite time then the control board is good. Igniter would be in trouble.
If you are in doubt I would call Dinosaur or email them. They are good folks.
Bryant's and dougrainer are fellas that have been in the RV service business for years and have been valuable for tech support on the appliances etc....On RV.net.
Here is a nice write up from Bryant's about the fridge theory of operation...
http://bryantrv.com/refcontrols.html
Jim.
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Mich 245/70XDS2's, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260,Lifeline 100ah, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Trimetric, Delorme/laptop, Holux gps rec,led lights, Wave-3 heat.
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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Take a pic of the burner showing the thermocoupler. Some models have a spark electrode that also is the flame sense. NOT yours tho.
Sorry, I screwed up. Your system HAS a electronic thermocoupler. So, you have the spark electrode at the burner. Then you have the 2 wire thermocoupler flame sensor that connects to the control board. YES, you do have the reignitor under that black cover upper right of the control board. Doug
Your pic of the white reignitor shows the yellow and white power wires but nothing connecting to the spark spade terminal.
* This post was
edited 06/30/23 04:40am by dougrainer *
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rvman69
philpot
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Doug, Here is a pic showing my main board and reignitor. Also a pic of reignitor with cover off of it with original electrode unplugged. I will have to get a pic of the new electrode installed. I dont have one at the moment. I am not with it at the moment. Thanks
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/9LEaXGjl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/4mbAFFXl.jpg)
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rvman69
philpot
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Since I have the fridge on cant I just unplug it in the access panel and it switch to gas automatically to test the voltage at the gas valve and reignitor? I might have to do it a couple of times since it might not stay active long enough to test both. I might just test at the reignitor since I can here the gas valve turn on. I will use the ground lug where the reignitor is grounded for my test. Thanks
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bigfootford
Fair Oaks, California
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rvman69 wrote:Since I have the fridge on cant I just unplug it in the access panel and it switch to gas automatically to test the voltage at the gas valve and reignitor? I might have to do it a couple of times since it might not stay active long enough to test both. I might just test at the reignitor since I can here the gas valve turn on. I will use the ground lug where the reignitor is grounded for my test. Thanks
Yes you can do that but the voltage is only going to be there for about 3 seconds. You might need someone to help you.
Test your DVM on a dry cell battery or on the fridge 12 volt source to make sure it is reading 12 vdc. Set the DVM to 20 vdc!w
Fridge power on.
Have it on AC.
Pull the plug
You should hear the gas valve click.
Watch the voltage on the gas valve or the IGNITER if you can get on the wire.... You will see it for only 3 seconds or so.
Jim
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rvman69
philpot
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I used my Fluke meter and got 13.2v at the 12v block. Then I got 13.2v at the yellow wire going into the reignitor with the yellow wire plugged in. I could here the reignitor pulsing but no spark at the electrode. When I bought the electrode it said it was Dometic and had a Dometic model number. I wonder if it could be a fake or something like that. When I first hooked it up I got just a small spark for a short while. Then after adjusting it some it quit sparking at all. Even just trying to hold it with insulated pliers and moving it at different distances to the metal I could not get it to spark. Of coarse with gas shut off. Here is a couple of pics the way it is right now. Having trouble posting pics. Will try again after while. Thanks
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rvman69
philpot
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It wont let me paste the pics for some reason. If I hold my finger down for the paste to come up all that comes up is select all. I know it is copied because I can paste it in my notepad. Thanks
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bigfootford
Fair Oaks, California
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rvman69 wrote:I used my Fluke meter and got 13.2v at the 12v block. Then I got 13.2v at the yellow wire going into the reignitor with the yellow wire plugged in. I could here the reignitor pulsing but no spark at the electrode. When I bought the electrode it said it was Dometic and had a Dometic model number. I wonder if it could be a fake or something like that. When I first hooked it up I got just a small spark for a short while. Then after adjusting it some it quit sparking at all. Even just trying to hold it with insulated pliers and moving it at different distances to the metal I could not get it to spark. Of coarse with gas shut off. Here is a couple of pics the way it is right now. Having trouble posting pics. Will try again after while. Thanks
When this is all over you will be the guru of Dometic igniter operation and will help others as you travel etc... I have for years. Dirty burner and electrode contamination have been nearly 100% of the troubles.
Voltages are good! Only thing left is the igniter sending a spark and the valve opening!
So you hear it snapping but not spark?
Disconnect the electrode wire from the Igniter and test again and see/listen if you hear the snapping of an arc!
If you (EDIT) hear it then the electrode wire is shorting some where between the Igniter connection and the tip of the electrode!
Will post about how to add a pic. a bit late. I do not have the linkon this computer..jhahahaaa.
Jt
* This post was
edited 07/05/23 02:56pm by bigfootford *
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bigfootford
Fair Oaks, California
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Ok, here is the picture posting link, designed by one of our RV.net folks.
You will have to add it to your web links/favorites so you can use it whenever you want.
If you do not then you will have to find the website every time to post a picture.
Bummer that the RV.net website software does not work like most typical webs when you want to post a pix. We have asked for a change for 20 years, no kidding!
So use the link below....
The app will give you the URL to post, just copy it and post it in your Post text.
You need to copy and paste this URL on a different tab...Ugg tab? Otherwise you will not be redirected to this link and you will loose your RV.net web tab... Sucks.
Hope you can understand the steps.
Once you have done this save the URL into your favorites!
http://photoposting.is-great.net/?i=2
Find your picture.
Select it.
Copy the url that the app gives you and post it into your text of the post.
Sorry if It is not real clear.
Jim.
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