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 > Dometic RM2652 no power to upper control board

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rvman69

philpot

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Posted: 06/27/23 09:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok I got my new Electrode in today. I installed it and I do get a spark but the flame will not light. I lit it with a long grill lighter and the flame looked good and blue and stayed lit until I turned it off in about 30 minutes. I dont think the gap and position of the tip of the electrode is good. How can I adjust the gap and position of the electrode? Can you bend it? Thanks

bigfootford

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Posted: 06/27/23 09:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rvman69 wrote:

Ok I got my new Electrode in today. I installed it and I do get a spark but the flame will not light. I lit it with a long grill lighter and the flame looked good and blue and stayed lit until I turned it off in about 30 minutes. I dont think the gap and position of the tip of the electrode is good. How can I adjust the gap and position of the electrode? Can you bend it? Thanks


Should be able to bend the little tab that is held by the little screw. If not just bend the electrode. Make absolutely sure your hands are clean and NO oils when touching the ceramic isolator.

Test the electrode with a screwdriver. Hav e someone turn the fridge on while you use the screwdriver to almost shot the tip of the electrode.
Should hear and see the spark. Valve opens with a click and a millisecond later the spark should occur.

Your back from your trip?

Jim.


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rvman69

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Posted: 06/27/23 09:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yeah I am wearing clean surgical gloves when I mess with the electrode. (No powder) Yeah got back from my trip yesterday. It was not a camping trip. We take camper out to campground Thursday or Friday. I will try to bend the tab to make the adjustment first. I guess if I bend the electrode I need to hold the metal wire with pliers while bending with another. Thanks

rvman69

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Posted: 06/28/23 10:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I adjusted on the electrode and can not get it to work. I do not think it is sparking as it should. I could here the reignitor pulses but no good spark. By the time I was done messing with it I could not here it pulsing at all. So I unhooked the electrode and still did not here a pulse or get a spark with a screw driver. I went ahead and turned the fridge on AC so it can get cold before we take it to the campground. So what do you think I have going on. What would make the reignitor quit working? The thing is it works on AC so the 12v and 120v fuses have to be good. Thanks

bigfootford

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Posted: 06/28/23 11:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Correct, if the Control board is working correctly to run the fridge on AC.
Also, since the gas valve is clicking that part is working too.

That means the igniter is defective or the signal from the control board to the igniter is not working.
Make sure that the igniter wiring from the control board is in the proper connector on the control board.

If you have a dvm you can watch the signal, 12vdc coming out of the control board to the igniter. It should go to 12vdc when you turn on the fridge and have the gas button depressed. Have to have someone help you do this. The signal is going to be there for about 3 seconds...

I had to replace my igniter about 10 years ago. I also replace my control board because when traveling, sometimes the flame would go out due to wind. I got the Dinosaur Board and ended that issue.
The Dinosaur board will retry relight several times... Also has an adjustment that you can raise or lower the fridge temp a couple of deg.. Nice feature too. Search for Dinosaur board domestic.


Jim.

rvman69

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Posted: 06/28/23 07:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There is only one place on this board that the gas valve and ignitor power can plug into. The 12v power wire goes from the control board to the gas selenoid valve to the ignitor. I guess I should check and make sure it is not loosing voltage from the selenoid valve to the reignitor. My board is 385 04 15-01 if I replace it with a Dinosaur board does it have the reignitor built into it? I was told you cant get a replacement reignitor. Do I use the original thermocouple and ignitor? I dont want to buy a new board if the reignitor is bad and cant be replaced. Thanks

bigfootford

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Posted: 06/28/23 08:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rvman69 wrote:

There is only one place on this board that the gas valve and ignitor power can plug into. The 12v power wire goes from the control board to the gas selenoid valve to the ignitor. I guess I should check and make sure it is not loosing voltage from the selenoid valve to the reignitor. My board is 385 04 15-01 if I replace it with a Dinosaur board does it have the reignitor built into it? I was told you cant get a replacement reignitor. Do I use the original thermocouple and ignitor? I dont want to buy a new board if the reignitor is bad and cant be replaced. Thanks


The Dinosaur board for the 2652 does not have the igniter built in.


Wow, OEM igniter is no longer avail. This is the only place I have found it...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164674934043

Make sure that you have yours wired up properly..

Look at this simplified diag at Dave's Place and make sure that the wire from the solenoid to the igniter + then to the control board is in the proper place... AND the ground wire goes to ground!

You should hear the gas valve turn on for about 3 seconds if the control board is working correctly. That signal turning on the gas valve is the same signal that tells the Igniter to start firing!
You should see the 12vdc at the wire on the gas valve as you turn on the fridge in the gas mode! One wire is - negative and the other is the signal 12vdc.

http://dave78chieftain.com/2807tronics.html

Jim.

dougrainer

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Posted: 06/29/23 08:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IF you have 12 volt power to the Reignitor, then the control board is doing its job. I still think you have messed up the reignitor wiring somehow, or do NOT have the Spark electrode mounted correctly. Doug

rvman69

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Posted: 06/29/23 01:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The board on mine is wired different than what Dave shows on that link. (See pics) I only unplugged wires I had to unplug to get it apart. I left the main board, reignitor and gas valve assembly all as one piece when I took it off. So I did not undo any of the reignitor connections at all. I undone the ground where the reignitor grounds to but just to take off the ground wire that goes to wires that go to top of fridge. I cleaned them up when putting the one back on. I will check for 12v at the gas valve and then at the reignitor. Like you said if I have 12v at both places the main board is doing its job and it has to be the reignitor or a problem at the electrode. If you notice in my pic I had the 12v from the block to the wrong place when I first put it back in. That is why the fridge light worked at first and nothing else. The red wire on right side belongs on the Batt terminal on the far left. I have not been able to do anything today so far. We have had some bad storms. Thanks
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bigfootford

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Posted: 06/29/23 02:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here is a Dometic wiring diagram, Daves is simple.

https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manu........ic-Refer-Model-RM2652-Wiring-Diagram.pdf

Here is the Dometic Service tips....

https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manu........etic-Refer-Model-RM2652-Service-Tips.pdf

These are something you should download and print out.

Jim.

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