str8shooter_mn
Texas
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Pulled into RV park and all three took a shower. Pump worked fine. Later, noticed light was out for switch. No voltage to pump when switching switch. Fuse panel on lower foot of bed frame, all fuses good. Checked breakers. Ok.any other suggestions appreciated. Pump was replaced 2 years ago with better pump. No problem trouble shooting the old one
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opnspaces
San Diego Ca
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Do you have a multimeter or 12 volt test light that you can use? I would test if the pump is even getting power. My guess though is the switch went bad so you'll want to check there too.
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craig7h
Branson MO area
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Take your voltage meter (if you do not have go get one) and see if you are getting voltage at switch. If you are getting voltage at switch, there may be a in line fuse at the water pump location.
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Cincy Steve
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Do you have pump switches @ multiple locations? All out? If just 1 is not working, it's likely that switch.
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accsys
Green Cove Springs, FL
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Cincy Steve wrote:Do you have pump switches @ multiple locations? All out? If just 1 is not working, it's likely that switch.
Also if you have multiple locations (you didn't state your RV model/make), you will most likely have a latching controller. If you replaced your pump with one that pulls more current and didn't replace the latching controller with a heavier duty one, it could easily fail as well.
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str8shooter_mn
Texas
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Yes, I have a multimeter. No power to pump. Have 3 switches in various locations. Fuse for pump is also for control panel where you check tank levels. Haven't checked switches yet. Will do. Tank levels indicators are also not working.
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opnspaces
San Diego Ca
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Hopefully the good thing is it's most likely a bad switch since there is no power at the pump. Two tings I can think of.
First make sure all switches are all the way up or down and none stuck in the middle.
Second is you said all fuses are good but did not say if that was a visual or a meter check. If you are not aware the fuses have two windows located at the end of each blade where you can check that current if flowing through without unplugging the fuse. Set your meter on Volts DC and at the fuse panel poke the positive lead into the window and the negative lead into a ground point. Check both windows on each fuse. You should get the same voltage on each.
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ScottG
Bothell Wa.
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There's usually a fuse right at the pump - reqd by manufacturer for warranty. Could be that one blew and the one in your panel is still fine.
Now, if that's the case, why did the fuse blow..
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2112
Texas
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opnspaces wrote:...
...
Second is you said all fuses are good but did not say if that was a visual or a meter check. If you are not aware the fuses have two windows located at the end of each blade where you can check that current if flowing through without unplugging the fuse. Set your meter on Volts DC and at the fuse panel poke the positive lead into the window and the negative lead into a ground point. Check both windows on each fuse. You should get the same voltage on each.
You can probe across the fuse. If it measures a voltage the fuse is blown. If it measures 0V or close to it the fuse is good.
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str8shooter_mn
Texas
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I'm well versed on how to use a multimeter as I worked as a service engineer for over 40 years for a medical imaging company.
All the fuses I can find have checked out good with the meter. Perhaps a latching relay that is activated/deactivated. The 3 different switches are momentary switches. The water pump light is supposed to come on and stay on until and one of the 3 switches is pressed, then the light goes out and there is no longer a light and no power to pump. Anyone have any clue as to where the latching relay would be located if there is one?
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