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 > Dometic fridge RM2652 tripping thermal sensor

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rvman69

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Posted: 06/12/23 01:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Pretty sure I did. That might be the reason though. Thanks

enblethen

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Posted: 06/12/23 02:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Doesn't matter whether you did or not! It still is in recall! That could be why you didn't get notice!


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rvman69

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Posted: 06/12/23 02:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Any opinions out there as if you think the cooling unit is bad? I need to order a cooling unit if it is determined bad. We are suppose to go camping at the end of the month. I am sure I can do it. I have been watching videos on replacing them. Also any suggestions on where to get the replacement cooling unit? Thanks

enblethen

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Posted: 06/12/23 04:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ryman69
Compare your last photo of burner shield to the same shield in JBarca's second photo. This could be your problem.
It doesn't look to be a bad cooling unit. More of a venting issue.
Another item to check is the baffle. It is in the 3/4 inch pipe inside the stack above the burner. Take a short piece of stiff wire, push it up into stack three four inches a rattle the baffle.
Crappy video of Baffle

rvman69

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Posted: 06/12/23 04:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So are you thinking the baffle could be clogged up. So the heat vents through the baffle on AC or gas correct? Thanks

rvman69

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Posted: 06/12/23 04:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is the baffle only for propane operation or can it effect the AC operation also? Thanks

rvman69

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Posted: 06/12/23 04:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You know there was a mud dauber nest in the burner cover when I removed it.

dougrainer

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Posted: 06/12/23 05:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IF your refer was new AFTER 2004, then the recall is NOT needed. The Thermas disc was one part of the recall, while the Flame wire was the 2nd if needed. REgardless, IF your unit is a leaker, then it is toast. Recall did NOT replace leaked cooling units. FOR 24 HOURS ONLY. Connect the 2 leads of the 120 heat element to a 120 extension cord. Run 24 hours. NO MORE. If the CU is bad(leaker) then you will not have cooling.
0 to 10 degrees in the freezer BELOW 38 degrees in the lower refer
IF you have a leaker, odds are the ammonia has lost its pressure and there is no danger of a fire. The fires only happened when on LP.

https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoor/lp/refrigerator-recall

rvman69

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Posted: 06/12/23 06:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok so I just hook the two leads from the heating element to an extension cord. Does it matter how the leads are hooked up polarity wise? Do I leave the refrigerator off or does it need to be turned on? I will test the baffle with a stiff wire and see if I can get anything out of it and if it rattles. Then I will blow it out with air compressor. Then I will hook it up to extension cord. I will wait until in the morning so I can be around it for several hours after I hook it up. Is there anything I need to really watch for while it is hooked up. Thanks

enblethen

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Posted: 06/12/23 06:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Doug is talking about the 120-volt element connected to extension cord. Polarity doesn't matter.

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