Part-Timer
SE Ga
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* This post was
edited 05/25/23 08:49am by Part-Timer *
2024 Chevrolet 3500 SRW Gas 6.6 w/ 10-Speed Allison
2021 Coachmen Chaparral 298RLS
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Durb
NW
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Unplug your trailer cord from the truck (no brakes) and see if it persists. If yes, then disconnect your battery which will disarm your breakaway switch which I suspect is your culprit. Test your rig in a safe zone.
It sounds like there is an electrical malfunction that is applying your brakes during acceleration; a tough problem to locate. As you accelerate, a circuit closes and the brakes are applied which causes deceleration which causes the circuit to open and allows you to accelerate again repeating the process, thus the jerking.
I had a motorcycle once (BSA Victor) that would die under acceleration, then start up again under deceleration. Quite humorous actually, jerking and wheelies. Turned out the battery was sliding back and forth in the battery box and was shorting against the frame.
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Part-Timer
SE Ga
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Durb wrote:Unplug your trailer cord from the truck (no brakes) and see if it persists. If yes, then disconnect your battery which will disarm your breakaway switch which I suspect is your culprit. Test your rig in a safe zone.
It sounds like there is an electrical malfunction that is applying your brakes during acceleration; a tough problem to locate. As you accelerate, a circuit closes and the brakes are applied which causes deceleration which causes the circuit to open and allows you to accelerate again repeating the process, thus the jerking.
I had a motorcycle once (BSA Victor) that would die under acceleration, then start up again under deceleration. Quite humorous actually, jerking and wheelies. Turned out the battery was sliding back and forth in the battery box and was shorting against the frame.
As stated in a previous post I have tested towing with and without the trailer wiring connected. It does the tugging even without the 7 pin connected. This was done on a low traffic side street and safe.
I have not tried disconnecting the trailer battery to reset anything, however the battery did die last month since my wife left some lights on and I didn't have it plugged up to shore power. It was dead without power for about two weeks before I towed it on our most recent trip. The battery was good and charged by the time we got to disney from Savannah, Ga. Not sure if a dead battery for two weeks would reset anything any different that simply disconnecting the battery does. I would assume it would have the same effect
Edited to add*** Sorry, I read that wrong... I understand what you're saying now and that makes sense. I will try that the next time I tow it. thanks
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Part-Timer
SE Ga
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Durb wrote:Unplug your trailer cord from the truck (no brakes) and see if it persists. If yes, then disconnect your battery which will disarm your breakaway switch which I suspect is your culprit. Test your rig in a safe zone.
It sounds like there is an electrical malfunction that is applying your brakes during acceleration; a tough problem to locate. As you accelerate, a circuit closes and the brakes are applied which causes deceleration which causes the circuit to open and allows you to accelerate again repeating the process, thus the jerking.
I had a motorcycle once (BSA Victor) that would die under acceleration, then start up again under deceleration. Quite humorous actually, jerking and wheelies. Turned out the battery was sliding back and forth in the battery box and was shorting against the frame.
One other question or thought on this. When I am accelerating and the jerking/tugging starts, if I squeeze the manual over-ride on the brake controller, the tugging sensation does not stop... the amount felt within the vehicle is dampened due to the brakes dragging on the entire truck/trailer rig but you can still feel the quick "tug- tug-tug-tug-tug" feeling. It's almost like if I had a misfire in the engine. That's the closest I can describe the feeling. I would assume that when I manually apply the brakes from the brake controller that it would override a fluctuating signal from a faulty breakaway switch?
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Cummins12V98
on the road
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EASY!!!
It's your CURT hitch. Look at how low the pivot point is on the CURT. FACT it can cause a chucking feeling.
Compare to the B&W that has it's pivot point at the height of the kingpin.
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2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
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2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable
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cummins2014
Utah
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Cummins12V98 wrote:EASY!!!
It's your CURT hitch. Look at how low the pivot point is on the CURT. FACT it can cause a chucking feeling.
Compare to the B&W that has it's pivot point at the height of the kingpin.
What took you so long . It's sure possible it's the hitch . He is a great candidate for the Andersen , and IMO would solve his problem . I am sure you will agree on the Andersen with the weight he has , no need for some expensive hitch .
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Part-Timer
SE Ga
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I have entertained the idea of the Andersen goosneck adapter. Hard to convince the wife of the cost when I have a "perfectly-good" hitch now. I like the convenience idea of the Andersen and the light weight in/out removal concept especially compared to the 200lbs of cast iron that I have to deal with now. But I'd hate to spend the money just to have the same jerking that I'm feeling now. As for normal "chucking" common to fifth wheels... I really don't have any to speak of. It really does pull and track well and the handling is great. Just this tugging sensation when accelerating at certain rpms is mind boggling.
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Krusty
Calgary, Alberta,Canada
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Sounds like it could also be a driveline shudder. Some trucks are more prone to it than others, depending on driveline type, wheelbase etc. They are fine at normal ride height until a load is applied and it changes the u-joint angles enough to create a shudder felt on accel from a stop.
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cummins2014
Utah
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Part-Timer wrote:I have entertained the idea of the Andersen goosneck adapter. Hard to convince the wife of the cost when I have a "perfectly-good" hitch now. I like the convenience idea of the Andersen and the light weight in/out removal concept especially compared to the 200lbs of cast iron that I have to deal with now. But I'd hate to spend the money just to have the same jerking that I'm feeling now. As for normal "chucking" common to fifth wheels... I really don't have any to speak of. It really does pull and track well and the handling is great. Just this tugging sensation when accelerating at certain rpms is mind boggling.
You do have a usual situation. Maybe so , spending $700-800 to hopefully solve the problem. But those Curt hitches has caused some towing issues .I know we can get some driveline shudder on a hard acceleration with a heavy fifth wheel, as mentioned . What would be ideal is switching hitches with someone to eliminate the hitch . Apparently not the truck , so that leaves the fifth wheel is causing an issue . Or maybe a friend with a fifth wheel you can test things .
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GaryUT
Northern UT
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I would check for a mechanical problem with the trailer. bearings , out of round brake drum, wheel not concentric to the hub.
2019 Keystone Laredo 255SRL
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