Mdk0420
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JBarca wrote:Mdk0420 wrote:
Thanks for the info. I have a feeling it's a combination of both issues. My generator might have a hard time handling hard spikes that max it out at the same time this compressor might just be very hungry for amps.
I think I will get a soft start because just about any AC I have or in the future would get, would be a nice addition to have just to make the components last longer if nothing else.
Do you recommend a soft start brand? I have been looking at then and don't know which ones would be good or not
If you make it to getting a soft start, the Micro Air brand is good from my dealings with them. This brand, https://www.microair.net/products/easyst........-phase-soft-starter-for-air-conditioners. Shop around as other retailers sell them, sometimes cheaper than buying direct.
I know there are other brands of soft starts out there, I cannot speak to the quality of them.
Also, ICON in Canada makes good AC shrouds that will fit your older Brisk Air AC unit. You stated it was brittle when you took it off. Amazon does sell its brand, sometimes cheaper than ICON directly. I have bought several of them when restoring older Sunlines. If you need help with the sizing, let me know. These folks, https://www.icondirect.com
John
Thanks for the recommendation. I'll look into this one and when I get one and install it I'll also update my testing.
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time2roll
Southern California
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Is the A/C total amp draw within specification when running on utility power?
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Mdk0420
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I have not checked utility power yet. Whoever owned my house previous made a 250' 14 gauge wire run all the way to my garage. It too cannot start the AC because of the massive voltage drop (can't really do much other than run lights and lighter power tools but I have mostly cordless tools anyways). My garage can't run my 15k unit inside the garage either. But my generator can. That's a different system then what's in the RV. Must not draw as many amps because it doesn't trip my generator
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edited 05/17/23 07:07pm by an administrator/moderator *
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Sophia11
Los Angeles
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Using a Westinghouse igen4500df generator, the user has experienced inconsistent results when starting an AC unit. Sometimes it starts successfully, while other times it only hums before tripping the overload protection of the inverter generator. Testing the compressor coils shows no resistance, and the capacitors are within 2% of their ratings. The motor starter is within the specified range. On the generator side, successful startups draw around 28-30 amps, while unsuccessful attempts reach a maximum of 48 amps but experience low voltage (down to 95v) during the heavy draw period, leading to overload tripping. The low voltage drops to 55v during initial heavy draw but recovers quickly, except in unsuccessful starts. Measurements are taken using true rms equipment. The fan motor spins freely, and the refrigerant has not been checked. The user plans to get a soft start but is perplexed that a 4500 watt generator struggles to start a single AC system, even though a 15k BTU AC unit runs without issues in the shed. The user seeks suggestions on other possible causes and wonders if this is a common issue for units without a soft start or if Westinghouse generators are generally unreliable.
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Galvanizd
Puerto Penasco Mexico.... For a bit.
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Mdk0420 wrote:valhalla360 wrote:Shouldn't need a soft start with a 4500w generator. My best guess is the water heater is on electric and the battery is low so the charger is putting out max charge...that may be enough to push it over the edge.
The 12v battery is disconnected. I have it charging for when we go on our vacation in 2 weeks.
The hot water heater is off. I don't think mine has an electric option but I have no load amps of a few miliamps even if it did. I've always operated my hot water from a button on my control panel and it runs propane to heat it up but that switch is off
You need to reconnect your 12 volt. You need both to properly operate the ac unit. Power to the ac unit is provided by generator or shore power. 12 volt power is needed to tel the ac unit what to do. Might be part of the problem .
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JBarca
Radnor, Ohio, USA
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Galvanizd wrote:Mdk0420 wrote:valhalla360 wrote:Shouldn't need a soft start with a 4500w generator. My best guess is the water heater is on electric and the battery is low so the charger is putting out max charge...that may be enough to push it over the edge.
The 12v battery is disconnected. I have it charging for when we go on our vacation in 2 weeks.
The hot water heater is off. I don't think mine has an electric option but I have no load amps of a few miliamps even if it did. I've always operated my hot water from a button on my control panel and it runs propane to heat it up but that switch is off
You need to reconnect your 12 volt. You need both to properly operate the ac unit. Power to the ac unit is provided by generator or shore power. 12 volt power is needed to tel the ac unit what to do. Might be part of the problem .
Galvanizd, This is a good thought.
This is something to rule out; yes, connect the battery and try again. We didn't get a confirmation if this Sunline was using a Centurion or an American Enterprises power converter. In 2003, Sunline stopped using the Centurion and went to the American 60 amp 12-volt power converter. I know that the American can run OK without a battery attached, but I'm not sure about the Centurion.
But, the battery will act as a capacitor on the 12 VDC side. Actually, it will run the AC unit control board all by itself. Now here is the but, the Dometic analog control board uses a 12-volt DC relay as a starter for both the fan and a separate one for the compressor. If, by chance, the 120 AC power flickers or goes low volts, the power converter may stumble and drop the 12 VDC control low enough that the control board flickers the relays while trying to start the compressor. The generator will not like that flicker of the AC power during this high surge spike. Having a battery in place will supply a constant 12 VDC regardless of the power converter dips. This is all theory, but it could happen. The best way to rule it out is to put the battery in and try it.
For sure, let us know how this battery test goes.
John
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bucky
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Kudos to the OP for doing all they could to solve a problem rather than the norm on the interwebs of just throwing out a vague request for help.
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Galvanizd
Puerto Penasco Mexico.... For a bit.
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For the OP . Here is a some info that might help with the 12volt idea. from above. This guy is pretty good. The entire video is excellent info and offers great stuff, At about 2:15 , he addresses what MIGHT be your problem. At any rate , might be a good place to start
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooPAwYEKbUE
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Mdk0420
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I'm fairly sure I had the battery in the on position when I tried it off shore. I'll have to double check that test because that does sort of make sense. The way I recreate the issue is by short cycling it. If I turn it off and back on within a minute or so it will trip almost every time. So if the DC circuit cuts off supply to the AC and then sends power again from the surge it would short cycle it as well.
My soft start gets here today so I'll update on if that solves the issue and include the battery in on the test.
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Bobbo
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The thermostat SHOULD prevent short cycling. Short cycling is GUARANTEED to really spike the amperage draw.
Bobbo and Lin
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