Bert the Welder
Van. Island
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Camperlifemt wrote:Thanks, I am going to a quote on it this morning to get it fixed. If its crazy expensive I'll do it myself. I own a small landscape and construction company and am slammed with work and need to get the camper off my truck asap.
The problem is how the hell do I get it off my truck with 3 workable jacks?
Not suggesting this is a GOOD idea, but way back when men smoked pipes and 4 legged campers were for wussies.....(tongue firmly in cheek, in sarcasm....) Campers had three leg jacks. Also, I've had my 10.5 foot Okanogan on three legs and not on particularly level ground, with a breeze going. Extra wiggle, sure. But didn't seem to be in danger of going over. So, if you've got the clenching muscle for it, might be fine unloading with the three. Just have someone with experience or trustworthy running around it, watching for the slightest contact. (Not my wife. Watching her try to give simple hand signals is like watching Jerry Lewis having a stroke AND an epileptic fit at the same time....) Once off, have said friend have a 2x4 wedged in the cabover/wall junction to help keep it balanced and have a premade lumber leg ready to wedge under there until repaired. Even a 2x4 temp screwed into the naked spot, wedged up snug to the cabover would probably be fine. But feel free to go overboard as far as you like to sleep at night..... ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
* This post was
edited 07/06/20 05:44pm by Bert the Welder *
"> 1998 GMC 2500, 10.5 Okanagan, My better/smarter half, George and Finnegan(APBT), all I need.
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K Mac
Lower Hudson Valley N.Y.
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If your in business you should have a bottle jack or a floor jack some pipe, or 4x4, is all you need. Just be careful then shore it up safely enough to do repair.
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Kayteg1
California > Nevada
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I don't see any lag bolts holes at all.
But picture shows only 1 side, so there is big margin for error.
Still all TC mounts I have seen have additional angle-liner inside, so the frame in the corner is sandwiched between the steel. Meaning if the light camper did not have it from the factory, I don't see much trouble to do it now.
Only floor frame has bigger wood chip, so there is lot of good wood to sandwich and 4 bolts going on other side can't be beat.
I also like the diamond plate idea.
* This post was
edited 07/06/20 11:37am by Kayteg1 *
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AnEv942
CA
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wnjj wrote:
Look again. You can see half of the exposed bolt holes running left to right. The entire front half of the stud is gone, split right across the bolt line. There are also bolt holes going in (looking straight into the photo)...
I see where front lag bolts pulled out of face and face of wood split off where side lag bolts went thru but I also dont see where there were thru bolts. Looks similar to our rear jack mounts-no thru bolts just lags.
Which Id look at replacing mounts that also had thru bolts, though don't know what jacks you have. Just give more mounting surface if you can get to back side of front wall corner.
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JIMNLIN
Oklahoma
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My neighbor had this happen and he came up with a old TC cable lift jack like we used before hyd's.
My 50 hp blue tractor and one of my nylon lift straps anchored to that bottom broken corner would work also.
Or a buddies/rental fork lift on that side.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers
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Camperlifemt
Montana
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Thanks, I am going to a quote on it this morning to get it fixed. If its crazy expensive I'll do it myself. I own a small landscape and construction company and am slammed with work and need to get the camper off my truck asap.
The problem is how the hell do I get it off my truck with 3 workable jacks?
I think the diamond plates might be the way to go. Some wood got torn off with the lag bolts, but it is not structural as far as I can see. Looks like you need to get a little more hardwood in there somehow so the new lag bolts will have some meat to bite into.
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midnightsadie
ohio
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diamond plate then do the other side so it looks factory done. your lucky it could have been alot worse.
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Bert the Welder
Van. Island
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Could be worse. At least you aren't looking at blackened pudding where wood should be! Bright side. Sorry this happened. I've got an old Okan. too.
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mike/kellie
northern calif.
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That looks like a pretty convienant area for diamond plate. I would fix anything structural, remove the other forward jack, re-skin the void and install the aluminum plate. Mount jacks and seal.
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wnjj
Cornelius, Oregon
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Kayteg1 wrote:Don't know what kind of jack you have, but I don't see holes for bolts?
The few screw that left marks were put BETWEEN the skin and the frame. They had no holding power.
Seems you had only 1 screw with solid hold and that one pulled some wood.
Most of the jacks have at least 2 bolts on each side that go on other side of the wall and end on the piece of steel there.
Look again. You can see half of the exposed bolt holes running left to right. The entire front half of the stud is gone, split right across the bolt line. There are also bolt holes going in (looking straight into the photo).
My guess is a 2001 model is going to be prohibitively expensive to repair, unless you do it yourself.
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