MEXICOWANDERER
las peñas, michoacan, mexico
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Quicksilver has a pair of 30-amp breakers for input protection.
L1 for normal conditions
N for when the park is wired in reverse.
Twice I have returned and found a reversed connection.
The park had work done -- the first time on the breakers, the second time on an underground junction protected by a thin steel plate.
Introducing line voltage to a neutral means absolutely zero circuit protection downstream of the error.
I preferred to adopt an optional provision to the NEC.
I have rented several umbilical dwellings with the same fault.
Two slots and nothing else receptacles are still common down here and it's a thousand to one shot to find a receptacle that is correctly wired with earth ground.
Modern rigs with EMS often spend the night boondocking in an RV park. I take no chances and wire in my own grounding stake at the site.
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MEXICOWANDERER
las peñas, michoacan, mexico
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It is legitimate to play the part of one or the other on an RV tech site.
Teach
or
Learn
The third entity plays the part of dead wood IMHO. Noise, static, of no value. It's when someone puts another person in danger is when I fume. Like when they are informed of a hot skin condition but are too lazy to fix it.
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xnizstudio
North Carolina
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MEXICOWANDERER wrote:It is legitimate to play the part of one or the other on an RV tech site.
Teach
or
Learn
The third entity plays the part of dead wood IMHO. Noise, static, of no value. It's when someone puts another person in danger is when I fume. Like when they are informed of a hot skin condition but are too lazy to fix it.
Way too many hot heads on here who just want to rant and try to make you feel bad...
I just wanted to share my story and get some help and advice :/
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time2roll
Southern California
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Joined: 03/21/2005
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xnizstudio wrote:I only posted here to share my experience so that it doesn’t happen again to someone else. Thank you for the post. Sorry for all the nit picking.
Actually you are far from alone. We see a post like this every 2 to 6 weeks. Often people incorrectly use a double breaker for 30 amp RV service. Even licensed electricians have done it. Also common to somehow cram the plug into an older 10-30 dryer outlet.
Everyone seems to survive and continue on with some good travels once the issue is sorted out. It is actually amazing how many RV systems can be easily damaged by not following some procedure. Always seems simple and obvious after the fact. BTDT
2001 F150 SuperCrew
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xnizstudio
North Carolina
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time2roll wrote:xnizstudio wrote:I only posted here to share my experience so that it doesn’t happen again to someone else. Thank you for the post. Sorry for all the nit picking.
Actually you are far from alone. We see a post like this every 2 to 6 weeks. Often people incorrectly use a double breaker for 30 amp RV service. Even licensed electricians have done it. Also common to somehow cram the plug into an older 10-30 dryer outlet.
Everyone seems to survive and continue on with some good travels once the issue is sorted out. It is actually amazing how many RV systems can be easily damaged by not following some procedure. Always seems simple and obvious after the fact. BTDT
Thanks! I'm hoping I escape with minimal damage. I plan on living in my camper for a year or so while I save money. I have the 2007 Keystone Laredo (34.5ft) fifth wheel. It is absolutely amazing. I almost cried when the power issue happened.
I got it for an excellent price considering the condition is still "new".
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maillemaker
office
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Quote:How long was it until the control boards failed? I'm not sure how long I can keep my claim open for, but it would be nice if it fails sooner than later.
Was it just the control board in the water heater? Did the refrigerator burn out completely? Did you have to replace the refrigerator or have it repaired? What was the cost?
Also, was the refrigerator and water heater already powered on and running when you plugged it into the outlet?
I was told by a previous commenter that if the refrigerator and water heater had not been hot at the time, then it may be okay. But... anything can happen with electricity..
Did you blow your power converter up too or was that not damaged? It was plugged in for about 20 seconds and the converter immediately blew up.
There was no immediate damage as I recall. We heard some clicking noises coming from inside the RV, probably from the converter.
My RV is ancient - 1990. The converter is a B&W 6332. It suffered no damage and still works fine to this day.
I'm not sure the failure of the control boards in the fridge or water heater were related. The fridge was always flaky, I'm not sure if it got flaky before or after we did the 240 V plug in. Sometimes it would kick off on propane, sometimes not. With the water heater, the ignitor would run continuously. I replaced both boards with boards from Dinosaur Electronics and it solved the problem. I don't remember the cost but they were not expensive. The fridge itself nothing was wrong with it.
I do not think either one was on during the over-voltage event.
Steve
1990 Winnebago Warrior. "She may not look like much but she's got it where it counts!"
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xnizstudio
North Carolina
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maillemaker wrote:Quote:How long was it until the control boards failed? I'm not sure how long I can keep my claim open for, but it would be nice if it fails sooner than later.
Was it just the control board in the water heater? Did the refrigerator burn out completely? Did you have to replace the refrigerator or have it repaired? What was the cost?
Also, was the refrigerator and water heater already powered on and running when you plugged it into the outlet?
I was told by a previous commenter that if the refrigerator and water heater had not been hot at the time, then it may be okay. But... anything can happen with electricity..
Did you blow your power converter up too or was that not damaged? It was plugged in for about 20 seconds and the converter immediately blew up.
There was no immediate damage as I recall. We heard some clicking noises coming from inside the RV, probably from the converter.
My RV is ancient - 1990. The converter is a B&W 6332. It suffered no damage and still works fine to this day.
I'm not sure the failure of the control boards in the fridge or water heater were related. The fridge was always flaky, I'm not sure if it got flaky before or after we did the 240 V plug in. Sometimes it would kick off on propane, sometimes not. With the water heater, the ignitor would run continuously. I replaced both boards with boards from Dinosaur Electronics and it solved the problem. I don't remember the cost but they were not expensive. The fridge itself nothing was wrong with it.
I do not think either one was on during the over-voltage event.
Steve
Sounds like you got off easy. My converter blew up immediately. Everything was powered down when it happened so I think I’m gonna be fine. I’ll know for sure in a few hours!
I’ll keep the thread updated. Fingers are crossed!
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MEXICOWANDERER
las peñas, michoacan, mexico
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Me? I am always prepared to learn. Or when the occasion arises, to teach. Sadly my expertise is limited to two areas, batteries and charging systems.
Awnings, hot water heaters, A/C, slide-outs, tires, and hitches are limited to read & learn ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
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stevenal
Newport, OR, USA
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westernrvparkowner wrote:
It isn't the breaker. The entire wiring is wrong. This isn't on the guy selling breakers, it is on whoever wired the breaker and wired the outlet.
This EE agrees. Was this guy licensed to do the work he did? If so, you should be able to make a claim on his bond or insurance for the damage. If not, it's a lesson learned.
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xnizstudio
North Carolina
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stevenal wrote:westernrvparkowner wrote:
It isn't the breaker. The entire wiring is wrong. This isn't on the guy selling breakers, it is on whoever wired the breaker and wired the outlet.
This EE agrees. Was this guy licensed to do the work he did? If so, you should be able to make a claim on his bond or insurance for the damage. If not, it's a lesson learned.
A family member did it who is a licensed HVAC technician. The wiring was fine. If you wire a 240v dual pole breaker to put out 120v, you will more than likely fail inspection.
Even a licensed electrician could have made this same mistake.
Had we knew ahead of time the camper required 110/120v, then the wiring could have been different for the dual pole breaker, but it still would have not be the correct way to wire it. Wiring a dual pole 240v breaker to output 110/120v is still incorrect, even if it works. Again.. you need the single pole 110/120v breaker to do it properly and pass inspection.
As stated previously, and I will continue to state this, if I had the single pole 120v breaker, it would have been fine.
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