Sliding-into-home
PDX
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Joined: 11/18/2018
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Thanks for all that awesome feedback, especially on the tires. I had ko2's on my tundra for all seasons and then Nokian studs. No comparison.
I've heard mixed things about air bags though. Seems some love them, others regret. I'm going to start with the stable loads and then add a big wig if I feel like I need help with sway. At least that's the plan for now, but I'm nothing if not suggestible.
2017 F-350, CC/LB/SRW
2018 Northern Lite 9-6 SE
Upper StableLoads (for now)
Nokian LT2 Studs
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kayco53
bc
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Joined: 02/03/2003
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Sliding-into-home wrote:Thanks for all that awesome feedback, especially on the tires. I had ko2's on my tundra for all seasons and then Nokian studs. No comparison.
I've heard mixed things about air bags though. Seems some love them, others regret. I'm going to start with the stable loads and then add a big wig if I feel like I need help with sway. At least that's the plan for now, but I'm nothing if not suggestible.
Check for clearance on the Stableloads that go between the leaf springs. Took mine off as there was no clearance for tire chains. If you get airbags make sure they are independent of each other truck is stiffer that way (less sway).
2007 GMC 2500hd
2011 Creekside 23RKS
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Sliding-into-home
PDX
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I'm just getting the uppers. And I hope I'm never in a position to need to put on chains, because that would mean I was stuck.
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Bedlam
PNW
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Joined: 06/13/2012
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kayco53 wrote:Sliding-into-home wrote:Thanks for all that awesome feedback, especially on the tires. I had ko2's on my tundra for all seasons and then Nokian studs. No comparison.
I've heard mixed things about air bags though. Seems some love them, others regret. I'm going to start with the stable loads and then add a big wig if I feel like I need help with sway. At least that's the plan for now, but I'm nothing if not suggestible.
Check for clearance on the Stableloads that go between the leaf springs. Took mine off as there was no clearance for tire chains. If you get airbags make sure they are independent of each other truck is stiffer that way (less sway).
Mount the lower StableLoads inboard on the springs if they don't clear your chains.
Chevy Sonic 1.8-Honda Passport C70B-Host Mammoth 11.5-Interstate Car Carrier 20-Joyner SandViper 250-Kawasaki Concours ZG1000-Paros 8' flatbed-Pelican Decker DLX 8.75-Ram 5500 HD
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brholt
Seattle
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Joined: 11/17/2010
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Instead of chains I carry these:
auto socks
much easier and lighter to carry. They seem to be acceptable substitutes for chains in all states. Disclaimer: I have never had to actually use them so I don't have experience with them.
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rider997
California
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Joined: 01/06/2014
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Looks like you've already made a camper choice...
We carry an Arctic Fox 811 on a 2015 1-ton Chevrolet SRW and are quite pleased with it. We're a bit over GVWR when fully loaded- including 50 gallons of water- but under tire, axle, and wheel ratings. I removed the heavy appliances that we don't need for winter camping - generator, A/C, microwave. We can easily dry camp for a week, in weather with low temps around 0 deg F, while keeping the tanks from freezing, on two 18-lb propane tanks (composite tanks for massive weight savings over the two steel 30-lb bottles the camper is supplied with). The 990 is actually very similar in layout and space to the 811. The dinette bed is a few inches longer on the 990, and the bathroom also has a few more inches of length to it. If you're counting pounds, the 811 might be the better choice while requiring few compromises.
We love the extensive cabinetry for storing all of our ski gear for the whole family. I have 200w of solar along with a good quality MPPT controller that will provide me with all of the power I need for weeks as long as it's not snowing the entire time.
The truck/camper combo handles great in the snow. The camper is well insulated, spacious, and convenient, and we'd probably buy the exactly the same setup again if we were to decide from scratch.
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smooth1
NorthWest
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Joined: 03/28/2011
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Congratulations. Mountain camping at the ski slopes is great & a truck camper is a great way to go. (2) large batteries at a minimum & carry a generator. If you are going up for just Saturday night are you sure you can get a spot. RV lots at the slopes fill up fast in the PNW.
A note about the fiberglass campers and winter camping is the top needs to be cleaned of new snow over an inch or so before you head home. If not the snow will slide off the top of the camper roof and land on the windshield when you apply the brakes. This could be dangerous if it is too much snow for your wipers to handle.
Non clam shell/fiberglass designed campers have a raised seam on the front of the roof where the nose cap and roof join & the rubber roofs have better friction than fiberglass, so this does not happen on those campers.
Climb up and down the ladder for practice with a broom and when it is wet, & make sure your boots have good traction on the fiberglass as it gets slick.
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Sliding-into-home
PDX
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Joined: 11/18/2018
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If the main lot is full (and it often is on Saturdays), there's a snow park 1 mile away. Got the camper installed today, and I don't think we'll even need to put the jacks down.
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jefe 4x4
West Slope, Northern Sierra Nevada
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Joined: 01/21/2004
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Sliding, it looks like you are settled in. I"ve had good luck with my Cooper Discoverer AT-3LT tires (315x75R16 size) in snow much of it because of the sipping. With a 3860 load range it easily carries my Lance around. Unlike most mud/snow tires the tread lasts because there are smaller voids and larger, sipped tread blocks. Not very sexy, but do the job and for a long time...and quiet. I've not had a good experience with a couple sets of BFG AT's as the sidewalls cracked long before the tread was done. Maybe the newer ones are improved.
![[image]](http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z240/jefe4x4/DSCN0686_zpslabomciy.jpg)
![[image]](http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z240/jefe4x4/DSCN0710_zpskrxfddp3.jpg)
Good enough to get me out of this:
![[image]](http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z240/jefe4x4/DSCN1843_zpsb28a5618.jpg)
These come in a lot of sizes.
I have some very stout, truck style cable chains for the rear axle of my truck camper, and sure enough, I've never had to use them.
* This post was
edited 11/29/18 12:45am by jefe 4x4 *
'01.5 Dodge 2500 4x4, CTD, Qcab, SB, NV5600, 241HD, 4.10's, Dana 70/TruTrac; Dana 80/ TruTrac, Spintec hub conversion, H.D. susp, 315/75R16's on 7.5" and 10" wide steel wheels, Vulcan big line, Warn M15K winch '98 Lance Lite 165s, 8' 6" X-cab, 200w Solar
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Joined: 05/06/2013
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^ Agree AT3s are decent tires in snow.
Pretty much any tire with good tread is twice as good when siped compared to not.
(That’s what dedicates snow and ice tires are. Lots of sipes. Except they’re also a very soft rubber compound for even more deflection/traction.)
Studs help on ice, just like sipes except better but do nothing for deep snow. Just like snow and ice tires are not great in deep snow. Because they don’t have large tread voids.
Imagine this, there’s no “does everything the best “ tire just like there’s no does everything best RV......
My personal opinion, having been in more differnet or extreme winter conditions than most, is the best overall tire for ALL conditions where the driving surface is white, not black gray or brown, is siped, studded, mud tires.
They give up a bit in fuel mileage and more noise on black or brown surfaces, but excel in any combination of deep white stuff to glare ice.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
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![[image]](http://s194.photobucket.com/user/jefe4x4/media/DSCN0686_zpslabomciy.jpg.html)
![[image]](http://s194.photobucket.com/user/jefe4x4/media/DSCN0710_zpskrxfddp3.jpg.html)
![[image]](http://s194.photobucket.com/user/jefe4x4/media/DSCN1843_zpsb28a5618.jpg.html)
