StarryOne
Connecticut
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StarryOne wrote:Ralph Cramden wrote:A 2004 Travel Star is laminated panel construction including the floor, and dealing with the laminated construction is not anywhere close to being simple as just replacing "sheets" of plywood. It can be done, and has been done, but it's not exactly easy and involves adding a lot of additional supports, as the aluminum structural supports in the panels are placed far apart. The top layer of the floor under the vinyl flooring will be nominal 1/4" (around 3/16") and the bottom layer 1/8" with 1x1-1/2" aluminum tube on 32" or wider centers with nothing between but 1-1/2" beaded foam. On the wall panels they'll have 1/8" plywood inner and outer with 1" tubes and foam between, those tubes could be 4' apart or further with no framing whatsoever around openings.
I realized you are saying there are 2 floors?? Could you walk me thru that? 2 sheets of different sized wood?
Thank you, Ralph! Now I completely get it.. It makes more sense than what I was envisioning!
"> Restoring an older Starcraft, so I have no idea what I'm doing ..Yet!
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StarryOne
Connecticut
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Again, thank you. I suppose at this point its finding suppliers for things like the metal tubing. I dont want to add weight to the camper. Think we found the source of a roof leak, a broken, mangled refrigerator roof vent. Now to get a ladder tall enough to reach it!
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marcarolle
Fredericton, NB, Canada
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Joined: 08/18/2013
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We owned a 2004 Starcraft 215SS Antigua Hybrid from 2013 to 2016 (4 seasons).
After season #2, the floor on the front was soft. My independant RV tech added some 2X4 studs from under the trailer, to reinforce the floor. He peeled off the cushion floor (from front to halfway) and let the floor dry off. He fixed the location of the leak (coming from the bunkend hinges). Then replaced the cushion floor by gluing it to the floor. Once back at its place, the cushion floor was a bit too short, so he added a white quarter-round molding. Our cabinets were white. That did the trick for us. The floor remained a bit soft when walking on it, but we knew that everything was sturdy underneath. After all, the TT was an older model, and it was not worth spending $$$ to gut it and repair - either by myself or getting someone to do it.
This my 2 cents.
BTW, that's not the reason why we sold it. We looooved that Hybrid trailer. But we were ready to move to the dark side with a travel trailer, no canvass.
Good luck and happy camping!
Me
DW
Gouda - 11 months Golden Retriever
Eva Golden Retriever (we miss you!)
2019 F150 2.7l V6 Ecoboost
2008 Gulf Breeze 26RKS
2004 Antigua 215SS Hybrid - gone
2002 Jayco Eagle 12SD pop up - gone
1996 10 ft Clipper pop up - gone
1977 10 ft Lionel pop up - gone
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fozrun
Lethbridge, AB
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I have a 2006 Starcraft with the same problem, rotted floor at the front of the trailer. It was caused by the bottom seam of the stone guard area opening up (probably was hit by something) and then having the trailer sit in storage for a couple of winters. I've taken out the furniture and the top layer of the wet luan.
I'll now proceed with getting the old foam out. The bottom waterproof membrane has come loose from the front and some of the sides. How would I go about repairing this? When I get the foam out I'm sure the bottom luan is rotted as well. I'm thinking of supporting the sides of the trailer with jacks to get things back to level and add a frame of 2 x6 's attached to the outside aluminum frame.
Any suggestions? I've looked up some old threads but some of the pictures of repairs are no longer available.
Any help appreciated
Travelstar 21SB, Chev Trailblazer EXT
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fozrun
Lethbridge, AB
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Update
So the bottom luan is saturated as well, I'm almost to the door. I will probably have to remove the coat cupboard and possibly the furnace/heater.
I'm wondering if I should start with putting in floor joists and subfloor in a section at the front and work my way back. Since the luan is rotted under the outside aluminum wall frame how would I go about repairing that and reattaching the waterproof membrane. From the older posts it doesn't look like anyone addresses that. They just attach joists to the outside aluminum rails.
I'm thinking if I can build a frame of some sort with luan attached to the bottom that would give something for the extruded foam insulation to rest on and provide some support. Then I might get away with fewer 2x6 joists, or perhaps use a combination of 2x6 and 2x4's, perhaps with a lap jointed one running down the centerline?
I could post some pictures but at the moment it just looks like a variety of other starcraft trailers with the floor partly ripped out.
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westend
Shorewood, MN
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You shouldn't need any dimensional lumber as big as 2x6. You should have some type of framing that supports the composite panel floor. I'd suggest to remove all that is damaged, including bits underneath walls. You can use an angle grinder or sawzall to ferret out rotten flooring underneath the walls. Support them with small blocking until you install a new floor. I'd suggest to install a conventional framed floor using 2x2's with foam in between floor joists. Sheet the floor with "X" rated plywood, a minimum 5/8" to offer support on a 16" OC floor. Slide your new floor sheeting underneath the walls while removing the support blocks.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton
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fozrun
Lethbridge, AB
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Thanks for the feedback.
I've got a new plan after finding some 1" aluminum channel at Lowe's. I'm going to start a frame at the front and attach new luan (and a waterproof membrane) under the aluminum square channels. Because they are light and not too expensive I'll use them at 12" centers and put them on top of the trailer frame that runs the length of the trailer on both sides. I'll jack up and support the sides at the front if needed to get back to square. I'll then rivet the channel to the outside frame using L brackets. I'll epoxy glue 1" hardwood blocks where the existing bolts go through the 2x4 blocks to the frame under the trailer. I'll then fill in with 1" sheets of insulation. On top of that frame I'll put 1/2 " ply (treated?), install the bolts to the frame and then put another layer of luan on which new vinyl plank flooring will go on. Sounds simple but I'm sure it will be some work and a few problems along the way.
At Lowes I put the channel on the floor and put the 1/2" ply on top, then a sheet of luan and the panels were very rigid with no movement. I'll be adding some weight with the 1/2" ply, but it shouldn't be too much.
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GrandpaKip
Flat Rock
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Joined: 06/18/2013
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fozrun wrote:Thanks for the feedback.
I've got a new plan after finding some 1" aluminum channel at Lowe's. I'm going to start a frame at the front and attach new luan (and a waterproof membrane) under the aluminum square channels. Because they are light and not too expensive I'll use them at 12" centers and put them on top of the trailer frame that runs the length of the trailer on both sides. I'll jack up and support the sides at the front if needed to get back to square. I'll then rivet the channel to the outside frame using L brackets. I'll epoxy glue 1" hardwood blocks where the existing bolts go through the 2x4 blocks to the frame under the trailer. I'll then fill in with 1" sheets of insulation. On top of that frame I'll put 1/2 " ply (treated?), install the bolts to the frame and then put another layer of luan on which new vinyl plank flooring will go on. Sounds simple but I'm sure it will be some work and a few problems along the way.
At Lowes I put the channel on the floor and put the 1/2" ply on top, then a sheet of luan and the panels were very rigid with no movement. I'll be adding some weight with the 1/2" ply, but it shouldn't be too much.
Why not just go with 5/8 or 3/4 and be done with it?
Kip
2015 Skyline Dart 214RB
2018 Silverado Double Cab 4x4
Andersen Hitch
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fozrun
Lethbridge, AB
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The 1/2" will bring me to the top of the 1.5" aluminum frame that runs around the wall of the camper. The extra top of luan or 1/4 " flooring ply will then fit on top of the outside frame and I'll be able to squeeze it under the gap in the wall. Or at least that is the plan. Time to head out and do more deconstruction. These things are not designed to be taken apart!
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Buckeyeclan
NE Ohio
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I replace my entire floor this past spring on a 05 palomino hybrid. Found and repairs lots of leaks found before pad during the process. On mine all of the foam and both the top and under side layers of wood were removed. basically all that was left was the aluminum tube and bottom fabric. I made a grid out of 2x material to get some structure then a layer of 1/4 exterior grade ply under all full height walls and cabinets. Then anther layer of 1/4 ply to carry the traffic. Staggered all the joints. I did not use treated material as there is a chance that it could react to the aluminum. I also used the pink solid foam in the gaps of my grid for insulation. This stuff will not wick moisture like the original stuff. I think I have some pictures and will try to post them when I get a chance
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