hybrid dw
florida
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Joined: 01/04/2018
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Entertainment...the model is coming along, i got the side bunk framed out to scale, and the trailer has stabilizers!
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/WEO2qUwl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/7DO5wQrl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/TJRHfRIl.jpg)
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shum02
Burlington ON CDA
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Joined: 04/22/2005
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slavco wrote:hybrid dw wrote:Luan bad, FRP good!
Are you able to walk on top of the FRP section?
Slav
Having owned a 215SB when it was new in 2005 we were told NOT to walk on the roof of these campers without laying down a 4x8 sheet of plywood. The roof as well as the entire camper was meant to be light weight.
2006 F350 Lariat FX4 CC 4x4 PSD
2007 KZ2505QSS-F Outdoorsman
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camperforlife
Midwest
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Joined: 01/22/2004
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shum02 wrote:slavco wrote:hybrid dw wrote:Luan bad, FRP good!
Are you able to walk on top of the FRP section?
Slav
Having owned a 215SB when it was new in 2005 we were told NOT to walk on the roof of these campers without laying down a 4x8 sheet of plywood. The roof as well as the entire camper was meant to be light weight.
I had an 03 195CK and they said it was walkable so who knows. I can say I was on it many time with no ill effects but I am only 175lbs.
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slavco
Waterloo, Ontario
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Joined: 04/18/2016
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Having owned a 215SB when it was new in 2005 we were told NOT to walk on the roof of these campers without laying down a 4x8 sheet of plywood. The roof as well as the entire camper was meant to be light weight.
I had an 03 195CK and they said it was walkable so who knows. I can say I was on it many time with no ill effects but I am only 175lbs.
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I have a 2003 Travelstar 21SSO, luckily the roof is in decent shape and there have been no leaks. The floor is entirely different matter ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile") I have had to replace a good portion of it, and will probably have to re-do the rear/bathroom this season.
Going back to the roof, I did walk on it multiple times to paint on roof sealant and to cut a hole for a new skylight. It holds up well, especially when you consider I'm 225lbs!
Slav
* This post was
edited 03/06/18 08:37am by slavco *
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hybrid dw
florida
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Roof side done. Installed putty tape to all turned down EPDM edges, just like the factory.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/NhOWelVl.jpg)
Secured the EPDM inside each skylight:
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/fyxmnTbl.jpg)
Full bead of Dicor self leveling on the screwline of the slylight:
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/VMKbl4Ml.jpg)
Waited a day and added Eternabond over all edges:
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/lV99Fo4l.jpg)
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shum02
Burlington ON CDA
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Joined: 04/22/2005
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Time to go camping!
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hybrid dw
florida
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Heres my tally of costs and time for the roof and structural repair work:
Best materials = $325
Included 8' x 10' 60 mil EPDM
4" x 40' Eternabond Tape
25' seam seal tape
2 Gal. EPDM Glue
Home Depot = $81.00
Includes FRP panel
Contact Cement
Roller
Spray Foam
1-1/2" Screws
Ace Hardware = $17.00
2 rolls of Putty Tape
Total Materials Cost = $423.00
Hours 46 ( (4) 10 hour days and (1) 6 hour day )
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shum02
Burlington ON CDA
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Joined: 04/22/2005
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Imagine what a "professional" would have cost ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
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hybrid dw
florida
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Agree...almost half of the hours were for the structural deck repair. So to be fair the roof probably took about 30 hours which was mostly by myself, 1 day out of those 6 days I had my son help for 6 hours.
I must make a summary judgement here about the factory design and construction. As a qualifier, I'm a Construction Manager and GC for my entire career so you can get where this might go.
In buildings, the design industry has evolved to make "system" redundancy a standard requirement. Like a Wall "system" will have more than one layer keeping the bad stuff out (water/organisms/etc) and the good stuff in (Conditioned air/heat). When you see a brick wall on a building, it was designed and built to have more than one waterproofing layer before the water would find its way into the building. Behind the brick is an air gap/cavity which then has a membrane against the back of another inside wall assembly (block or framing). The air gap relies on gravity and open venting to allow any water that gets through the first barrier (brick) to fall and exit the cavity through a "weep" hole before it makes contact and damages anything inside. So when I assess a building system or assembly failure for an owner, and the failure evidence can be seen inside the building, then we know multiple layers of protection have failed.
In this particular trailer, there is no design of redundant systems or layers, once there is a breach of the first layer by water (EPDM or Exterior skin) the damage is nearly always certain. It makes me want to design and build the camper out of non soluable materials, thats why I replaced the top deck Luan with FRP. One silly pinhole in the EPDM glued to Luan becomes a huge mess. The aluminum frame is safe from water damage but any other wood based materials are not. So Camper repair for a water breach becomes a catch it and kill it urgency.
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