Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?


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fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Posted: 08/21/22 08:45pm

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I then switched to the passenger side, as that still needs additional work as well.

Fiberglass like wood, will bend in one direction, but not 2.

As such, I had to cut a couple of slits in the fiberglass to make it bend and fit where it is supposed to.

[image]

If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

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A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Posted: 08/21/22 08:50pm

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I needed to keep the old fiberglass in place, until I can add new cloth and resin on the top side.

Therefore, I added some plywood on the inside, and then screwed through the fiberglass into the plywood.

This is a pic of the passenger side, and the drivers side looks similar with the plywood on the inside.

I do need to cut the end of the screws off before I start insulating the inside, though.

[image]

fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Posted: 08/23/22 08:02pm

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Here's some more prep for the drivers side fiberglass on top. Some sanding and smoothing for preparing for the next round of applying fiberglass and resin is in order.

Just like painting, the prep is way more time intensive than the actual glassing procedure.

Getting things leveled out, but still not to my liking.

[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 08/23/22 08:18pm

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Also working on the passenger side. Leveling things out before starting the fiber glassing on this side as well.

[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 08/23/22 08:20pm

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When I originally attached the front cap to the roof joist, I used some hex head screws, as in the red circle.

I am replacing then with flat head screws as in the blue circle.

Why did I use the hex heads? That's all I had at the time.

[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 08/23/22 08:26pm

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After removing the hex heads, I used a counter sink so the heads will be level or below the level of the fiber glass.

Here's my quick check to make sure the head of the screw won't stick up too high. I flipped the screw upside down and that gave me what I wanted to know.

The red arrow points to some grunge that is extremely miserable to remove. It's old caulk, and who knows what else.

Scraping takes less time than sanding with 36 grit, but it's still not fun.

[image]

In case you are wondering, this was a couple of hours worth of work. I know, it looks like it should have taken about 15 minutes. I wish.

I still have probably about a dozen more screws to remove and replace, and I'll probably have to get on the roof to access them.

fulltimin

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Posted: 08/25/22 08:30pm

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As you can see here, I finally got all of the hex head screws out, and replaced by flat head screws that are countersunk into the front cap.

I also cleaned up almost all of the left over gunk there, except for just a small portion on the drivers side.

I found that the best way to remove it was by using a sharp razor blade and carefully scrape it off. Not a lot of fun, but it's finally pretty clean.

[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 08/25/22 08:38pm

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Did I mention I dislike going up on a ladder? Ah, yeah, I did. Never the less, sometimes ya gotta do, what ya just gotta do.

However, when going up on the roof of the moho, the ladder is about as tall as the roof. As such, that means that I have to use those top 2 steps - you know - the ones that you are never to step on....

Yeah, those 2. What to do?

Well, here's what I did. I just added a little extension to the ladder to help keep me steady while getting on and off the roof.

A 2x3 and a couple of clamps and I'm good to go!

[image]

dodge guy

Bartlett IL

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Posted: 08/27/22 05:30am

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Are you going to put something over the screws as protection even thought they are countersunk?

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