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 > Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

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fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Posted: 03/18/22 08:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I also included 7 lbs of screws in a plastic container. That makes a total of 18 lbs.



[image]


If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin

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Posted: 03/18/22 08:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Now, before going on, let me say this. 18 lbs is waaaaayyy above what is actually possible with filling the sink with water. Why, you may ask? I am glad you did. Read on.

If we take a strip 2.5" wide by 15" long, and 10" high.

2.5 x 15 = 37.5 square inches. Multiply that by the 10" high, and we end up with 375 cubic inches. (Length x Width x Height).

We also know there are 231 cu inches in 1 gallon. 1 gallon of water weighs 8.33 lbs.

So, 375 divided by 231 = 1.6233 gallons of water. Multiply 1.6233 by 8.33 for the gallon of water and we end up with 13.522 lbs for weight of water for the 2.5" strip.

However, I am using 18 lbs or 33% more weight than what is even possible. Actually, only 1 corner is 10 inches deep. The center of the sink is only 9" deep so the actual possible weight in the center is about 12lbs. But that's okay. Let's overload it anyway.

fulltimin

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Posted: 03/18/22 08:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here we go. 18 lbs of screws being hung in the center of the bottom of the sink.

This actually has a few things wrong with it. First of all, in this pic, all of the 18 lbs is hung directly in the middle. With water, all the weight would be spread out across the entire length of 15 inches.

That means this torture test is way above what would be possible in real life.

Secondly, there would be several coats of Por 15 on top of the inside of the sink bottom, which would add strength, and a minimum of 3 not 2 coats of Epoxy on the bottom of the sink.



[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 03/18/22 08:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here is a close up, unfortunately, it is a little blurry, but the measurement is roughly 8 - 1/4". As you can see, the bottom is bowed a little bit, between 1/4" and 3/8".

As I said though, all this weight is hung in the center, is about an extra 5-6 lbs greater than what is possible with water, and the sides only bowed just a touch.

All in all, I am not worried about the sink collapsing. As I said, this is worst case scenario, and then some.



[image]



I we only fill the sink 1/2 full, that would be about 60 lbs for the entire sink, instead of 119 lbs for a sink that is 10 x 15 x 22. But again, the sink slopes from 10" deep at one corner to about 8" at the shallow end.

No, I am not worried about failure.

navegator

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Posted: 03/19/22 08:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hare you also calculating for the stress cracks induced by the vibration of the sink while driving, I had the head sink crack horizontally from road induced stress, found that the "P" trap vibrated just enough to induce tension, replaced sink and anchored the trap.

navegator

fulltimin

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Posted: 03/20/22 08:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

navegator wrote:

Hare you also calculating for the stress cracks induced by the vibration of the sink while driving, I had the head sink crack horizontally from road induced stress, found that the "P" trap vibrated just enough to induce tension, replaced sink and anchored the trap.

navegator




Nope. Have not calculated that, and not planning to. If it cracks when we are on the road, I'll know it, and take care of it then.

fulltimin

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Posted: 03/24/22 07:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

During the course of this rebuild, I have encountered a number of twisted off screws, bolts, and the like.

Sometimes the answer is staring me right in the face. Other times, a little thought is needed. This one, was, since I don't have the proper tool, what do I have that I can use that will work?

If the bolt head is twisted off, OR, if I had to grind off the head to get said offending member apart, here is a quick, very workable solution.

Step number one is to drill a hole in the center of the bolt, as if using an "easy out". However, I have had some success with easy outs, but not always.



[image]



[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 03/24/22 07:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Looking around a little bit, the solution was right in front of me, and very cheaply, I might add.



[image]



Yup, that's right. Using a torx bit of the appropriate size, a couple of whacks with a hammer to insert said bit, then using the "impact driver" that I have from Ryobi, and "Bingo". As they used to say... "Easy as Pie".

With the impact driver, the stuck bolt came right out. Somebody hit the easy button on this one.

You may be able to reuse the torx bit, but if not, they only cost pennies when buying a bunch at a time.

Wahoo!

DewLess

North Indiana

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Posted: 03/24/22 07:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Left hand drill bit

fulltimin

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Posted: 03/24/22 07:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DewLess wrote:

Left hand drill bit




Yeah, I didn't have one of those either...

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